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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) In bed aux fuel tank question

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There are many. There have been members here that have hooked up gravity feed from in bed tank, Automatic pump feed from inbed tank (transferflow) and manual electric pump transfer from inbed tank. There are tanks in steel and aluminum, powdercoated and diamond plate. Tanks by themselves and toolbox tanks. Take your pick. :D
 
There are many. There have been members here that have hooked up gravity feed from in bed tank, Automatic pump feed from inbed tank (transferflow) and manual electric pump transfer from inbed tank. There are tanks in steel and aluminum, powdercoated and diamond plate. Tanks by themselves and toolbox tanks. Its very difficult to hook aux tank directly into fuel system because of the return lines from the injector pump. Its much easier to just get fuel from one tank to the other. Take your pick. :D
 
I got mine from Dually Depot and am happy with it. Simple system, has a switch and a valve that selects between the tanks. Stock fuel guage reads for the tanks you are using. Just beware of some of the other less expensive systems, they are not DOT approved. If you get in an accident or live in an area that requires inspections that could be a big problem.



Karl
 
I'm thinking specifically about a home made tank made from diamond plate aluminum and need to know the best way to get the fuel into the OEM tank.



What about condensation? Should it include a drain valve at the lowest point so it can be drained peridocially?
 
I use a fuel/tool box that provides 50 gallon extra fuel capacity, here's a shot from underneath showing the plumbing and wiring:



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Fuel first flows down thru the smaller inline fuel filter over at the right side of the pic which protects both the valve and the fuel pump from debris in the fuel flow. Then into a common fuel selection valve used in this installation to prevent fuel siphoning even when power is not applied - it is wired in parallel with the Carter fuel pump shown so it automatically is engaged/disengaged at the same time as the pump. Then as can be seen, fuel is then routed to a larger filter prior to introduction into the adapter I made in the fuel vent line that runs next to the main fuel-fill:



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This setup is controlled by a circuit wired into a keyed power port on the main fuse block, and a large flashing LED is mounted in plain view above the steering column so I don't forget to monitor the refueling and overflow the main tank (learned THAT the HARD way... );) :D :D



My normal practice is to do all refueling into the inbed tank, and maintain the stock fuel tank from there, in order to get all the extra fuel filtering those added filters provide.
 
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Gravity works fine.

We have several trucks setup with a simple gravity setup. All our tranks are homemade out of 1/8" treadplate steel. These are in work trucks that get lots of stuff thrown in them (tanks are tough).



All these tanks have the intake pulling from as close to the bottom as possible. We weld in a short pipe with threads on each end about 1/2" off the bottom then add a 90 degree elbow on the inside and point it down to suck every last drop.



We put a ball valve just outside the tank (quick shut off in an emergency). After that we plumb pipe under the bed and to the vent line. Just before the vent line we add a solinoid fuel valve that has two lines in and one out. Hook it up so the solinoid has to be power before fuel flows and have the switch wire so it goes off with the key.



With no pump this sytem does not keep running if you forget to shut it off. If fills slow but fast enough to keep up with 6 mpg (test several times. ).



Even though we pull fuel from the bottom of the tank we DO NOT add any inline filter. Everthing runs through the factroy setup which most of us change to often anyway.



I have ran over 10,000 gallons through my personal truck axillary tank alone with never a gell up, filter problem, over fill or letdown. Keep the tank full and you will not have rust or water problems even up here in COLD country. It is simple and it works.





jjw

ND
 
pretty neat stuff. Thanks for the pics Gary, do you have part numbers? JJW-ND, do you remeber the part number for the solinoid (SP?) ? And why the two in - one out type? TIA
 
Mine's all common auto parts stuff - and old enough that part #'s are undoubtedly outdated - reason for 2/1 is that these valves are for switching between 2 tanks into a single fuel line - in my case, since it's a simple transfer system, I only use a single "in" connection and block off the unused one.
 
Same as Gary said

I you check at most parts store they should know what your asking for.



We did the same as Gary ... block off the inlet that is open with no power to the solinoid. Inlet that opens with 12v power from axillary tank. Outlet to vent line.



jjw

ND
 
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