In the box weight capacity.

[GCuzzy]

2003, 2500, 4x4 8ft bed & of course 5.9. Trying to calculate the weight capacity of the bed. According to published logic I take GVWR of 9000lbs & subtract from 11,200 (5200lbs front, plus 6000lbs back) The difference is 2,200 lbs. By the by, I have looked high & low for an accurate chart but the google machine sends me in all directions of the compass.

 

[AH64ID]

I’ve never seen a chart for that.

How the bed is loaded will have a big effect.

Go hit the scales and find the difference between empty and axle ratings.

 

[HPSimpson]

I thought there was a label on the left driver door inside.

 

[AH64ID]

I thought there was a label on the left driver door inside.

That’s based on the GVWR and not just bed capacity. GVWR, in many states, is nothing more than an emissions rating and not a capability rating.

 

[Tuesdak]

2003, 2500, 4x4 8ft bed & of course 5.9. Trying to calculate the weight capacity of the bed. According to published logic I take GVWR of 9000lbs & subtract from 11,200 (5200lbs front, plus 6000lbs back) The difference is 2,200 lbs. By the by, I have looked high & low for an accurate chart but the google machine sends me in all directions of the compass.

No. It's GVWR minus weight of the truck from a scale and then do not overload either axle rating.

At the truck stop scale that's with:
1) Full tank of fuel.
2) All passengers on the scale or in the truck. (I have to stand out of the truck on the scale per their procedure.)
3) Include the dogs/cats.

Note: Most cargo ratings you get is figured with a 150LB passenger in each seating position. Thus when you weigh your truck you get it's real ability in your configuration with options. I ain't 150 LBS. Only the giant dog is close. The 1 ton appears to have a 900 LB higher rating than your 3/4 ton.

An example is my 2003 SRW 2WD 3500 with the heavy NV5600.
Numbers on Door : weight ticket
GVWR 9900 : 7420
Ft Axle 4750 : 4440
Rear Axle 6150 : 2980

GVWR - total = 2480 LBS. All other supposedly higher limits like the axles/tires are fiction from an RV salesman's imagination. The GVWR is the lowest limit. The front axle is easy to overload.

The above example the cargo can all go in the bed as long as it doesn't overload the front axle.

A hard to find number is the GCWR, 20,000 LBS, giving the 2003 3500 the ability to tow a trailer weighing up to 12,580 LBS.

 

[Toby Dog]

The front axle is near impossible to overload unless an oak tree just fell on the hood. My scaled weight frt axle didn't change at all with or without my 2900 lb pin 5th wheel attached. The rear axle weight was a whole other issue.

 

[AH64ID]

The front axle is near impossible to overload unless an oak tree just fell on the hood. My scaled weight frt axle didn't change at all with or without my 2900 lb pin 5th wheel attached. The rear axle weight was a whole other issue.

My 3rd gen was normally over the 5200lb front rating, even empty. Throw 4 dudes in the cab and nothing in the bed behind the rear axle and it would be hundreds of pounds over. The only time it was under was with over 1000lbs of tongue weight on a trailer.

It’s a good thing that they upgraded the axle to 6K lbs in my ‘18 as I float around 5650 loaded for camping.

My front axle weight changes with my pin weight now, but not by much. I do have the pin as far fwd as the hitch will allow thou.

 

[slowmover]

The front axle is near impossible to overload unless an oak tree just fell on the hood. My scaled weight frt axle didn't change at all with or without my 2900 lb pin 5th wheel attached. The rear axle weight was a whole other issue.

That it DIDN'T change is the clue. The hitch location partially loads the FA.

That amount isn’t on the RA. 2900 is more like 2300.

 

[slowmover]

My 3rd gen was normally over the 5200lb front rating, even empty. Throw 4 dudes in the cab and nothing in the bed behind the rear axle and it would be hundreds of pounds over. The only time it was under was with over 1000lbs of tongue weight on a trailer.

It’s a good thing that they upgraded the axle to 6K lbs in my ‘18 as I float around 5650 loaded for camping.

My front axle weight changes with my pin weight now, but not by much. I do have the pin as far fwd as the hitch will allow thou.

Hopefully, it’s gone UP unless remaing the same (the ideal). It’s a static placeholder number in any event. Percentage spread FF/RR is the thing.

1). Need to disconnect while on scale. Get the genuine percentage. Full fresh water, propane and typical load for camping.

2). Truck with max fuel top off and loaded same with all pax aboard. Get separate weigh after parking trailer.

Combined gross I wouldn’t worry over past needing a CDL at 26k and higher.

3). The baseline for any vehicle is the same. Day of purchase transfer over permanent gear. Top fuel. With driver only, get CAT Scale weight (replicable across USA). This is the adjusted true empty weight.

Ship weight or curb weight have no meaning any more. Toss ‘em.

Scale values are placeholders.

The trailer exerts FORCE (mass), NOT weight.
It changes with every foot of every road traveled.

The PERCENTAGE of force at each of three points is what matters.

A 5’er or gooseneck hitch DOESN'T make for a more stable trailer. That’s down to the DESIGN of the two vehicles, each. These two hitches make simple the problem of distributing the trailer hitch FORCES.

Keeping the Steer Axle at the same scale value hitched and unhitched TENDS to make stability better. As well as constancy in steering “feel”.

That’s it.

FWIW, I can all-day-long continue in emergency maneuvers with my 35’ TT that will roll ANY 5’er RV instantly. The design of the vehicles, as said, AND where the hitch type does the same work as 5’er/GN (in this case, a Hensley-patent WDH; it’s actually better than those two where comparable).

“Going over” not perfectly relevant. Nail down the percentage.

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