2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Indicator gremlin

[KBurgoyne]

My indicator fuse lasts about 10 seconds before it blows and the turn signal light stays lit on the dash. Checked the bulds. Contacts are a little loose. The front indicators are staying on but not flashing. Rear are shutting off. Both rear indicators blow the fuse when left on. Im assuming theres a short. Can anyone narrow the search or recommend a full replacement kit for the wiring?

 

[petersonj]

Without any information about your truck, one cannot tell which wiring diagram to use in order to help you.

Also, what is an "indicator fuse"? You have four turn signal bulbs (two in the front and two in the rear of the truck) that serve as turn signals / emergency flashers. The two bulbs on the rear also serve as stop lights. There are two turn signal / emergency flasher indicator bulbs inside the instrument panel.

Is it your emergency flashers that are giving you a problem, or your turn signals?

- John

 

[KBurgoyne]

Its a 95. The 15 amp turn signal fuse inside the cab keeps popping. The blink as normal for about ten seconds then stay lit constantly after the fuse blows.

 

[KBurgoyne]

The rear light pigtail seems to be the culprit. The bulbs are not making firm contact in the sockets, and wiggling them makes them turn on and off. OEM part number is 56021369. I cant find part numbers for an aftermarket replacement.

 

[Topzide]

Another place to check, would be your trailer connector. Tracking in the socket can cause this issue also. Clean all contacts, re-spread the contacts to make better contact with the bulbs. Spread contacts in the trailer connector to help in contact with trailer plug.

 

[petersonj]

The bulbs are not making firm contact in the sockets, and wiggling them makes them turn on and off.

Loose bulbs will cause a poor connection and dim illumination, but will not blow a fuse. To blow a fuse, a much higher amperage than the fuse rating must occur.

The left and right rear turn signals / emergency flashers share the same filament in the same bulb as the brake lights. This is accomplished through part of the multi-function switch. If your stops lights work without blowing a fuse, or your emergency flashers work without blowing a fuse, then your problem is elsewhere.

Check to see if your stop lights and your emergency flashers are working before proceeding with troubleshooting. There are three fuses associated with the rear turn signal bulb filament - brake light fuse, emergency flasher fuse, and turn signal fuse. These fused circuits must pass through a part of the multi-function switch before reaching the rear bulb filaments.

I recommend that you get a wiring diagram for your year model truck to assist with accurate troubleshooting.

- John

 

[JMcCoy]

I would also check your flasher for a short. Super cheap if you need to replace it. Keep us posted.

 

[KBurgoyne]

On the advice of a mechanic ive used a few times; I got an LED kit for the rear lights. It plugs into the the top socket in place of the bulb and reuses the lower light. That and cleaning contacts fixed the problem. The LED is now responsible for the turn signals. Accoring to said mechanic, theres virtually no difference between all the kits he's installed. The $100 kit is just as good as the $500 one. Time will tell if its reliable, but its a vast improvement in visibility. I also got LED bulbs for the front, so hopefully i wont need to leave the hi beams on anymore.

 

[petersonj]

I also got LED bulbs for the front, so hopefully i wont need to leave the hi beams on anymore.

Installing LED lamps in a housing that has reflectors designed for halogen lamps is not a good idea. The light will be scattered and will adversely affect oncoming drivers' visibility.

A better solution would be to do the Sport Headlight conversion and relay the headlights in an OEM manner. Stay with good quality halogen bulbs. Much better lighting - both low and high beams.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dep-3341102lusc/lighting

https://www.genosgarage.com/downloads/TechPDF/TDR77_HeadlightConversion.pdf

- John

 

[KBurgoyne]

What bulbs are you using? The only bulbs ive found for the factory headlights are sylvania and they suuuuuck. Ive never had one last more than 2 years, and the light output is as stated, bad enough to run with the brights on.

 

[petersonj]

It's not about the bulbs

I am assuming that you still have the OEM 2 bulb headlight system. If so, that is a very poor lighting system from the factory. The reflectors are poorly designed and very little of the side of the road is illuminated on low beam. The 9004 bulb low beam is only 45 watts - de-rated for longevity as compared to a standard 55 watt low beam bulb. Then, to top it off, there are long runs of undersized wiring through the headlight switch and low / high beam selector switch and eventually to ground. There are no relays to improve voltage to the bulbs. And, of course, as the lens degrades over time, matters only get worse.

The result of this OEM wiring is that there is less than 11 volts available measured at the bulb with low beams activated and engine running - and this is when the truck is new!. Voltage should be a minimum of 12.8 volts (American bulbs) and 13.2 volts (European bulbs) measured at the bulb to get 100% of the rated bulb's output capacity (typically rated in lumens). At 11 volts, illumination output is reduced to around 50% of bulb's rated output capacity. You can buy the best bulb in the world and it is not going to help with an OEM 2 bulb headlight system.

A 4 bulb OEM headlight system (called Sport Headlights) is a much superior system. It is relayed and uses two 55 watt filaments (outside lights 9007 bulb) for low beam and four 65 watt filaments (outside 9007, inside 9004) for high beam. The reflectors are of good quality and light up the roadway and the sides of the roadway very well on low beam or high beam.

- John

 

[LorenStrodtman]

What bulbs are you using? The only bulbs ive found for the factory headlights are sylvania and they suuuuuck. Ive never had one last more than 2 years, and the light output is as stated, bad enough to run with the brights on.

I learned about these lights from numerous rave reviews. Because they are expensive, I chose to spend my time building some myself. Absolutely amazing light! Driving in northern Iowa / southern MN during deer season was much less stressful once the lights were installed.
https://retroshop.us/collections/2nd-gen-ram/products/2g-ram-hid-projector-retrofitted-headlights

Where I first learned about them:
https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12865-morimoto-hids-headlights-in-a-2nd-generation-dodge/

This is the site I used to piece together the components needed to install projectors into my existing, aftermarket headlight housings. I highly recommend the Morimoto D2S projectors. It's not the easiest website to navigate, IMHO, especially on a telephone screen. Installation was actually very easy once I learned the correct oven temperature for 'baking' the headlight housings to separate them for installation of the projectors into the housings.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/

 

[KBurgoyne]

I went with the $50 amazon special. They are much brighter and im not lighting up anyone's back window. Longevity will determine if its a good deal or not, but no more high beams on the freeway.

 

[KBurgoyne]

The short for the turns signals looks like it was caused by ancient fuses and big chunck of dirt that was kicked up into one of the rear connections.