Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Info on pulling Transmission.

[MFranz]

I am getting ready to pull my transmission for the first time. Looking for helpful tips on what to do. I have done a search on TDR but couldn't come up with anything. I just bought a transmission jack and hopefully will get started tomorrow,before and after the Super Bowl.

Thanks

Mike

 

[MTate]

The cross member can be a B*#*! to get out . Get you a porta-power or you will beat your brains out . This should save you alot of time .

 

[Cummins724]

The cross member can be a B*#*! to get out . Get you a porta-power or you will beat your brains out . This should save you alot of time .

That is the main thing... . the crossmember is a b**** without a portapower to spread the framerails. Also I would pull the T-case out first..... the transmission will be alot easier without the extra weight. Make sure that you don't push the clutch pedal in after removing the slave cylinder line..... the hydraulic clutch cannot be bled out if you get air in the line. Hope this helps... . Good Luck.

 

[zstroken]

I think he is referrring to an automatic. SO no slave cylinder to worry about. Here are some pointers.



I have seen the crossmember out on three trucks without the use of a porta power. I my first truck I used one. The key is push it up and then rock it back and forth and work it backwards. I can't do it, but have a friend that has them out in less than 5 minutes this way.



Leave the transmission bolted to the engine, once everything is out of the way lower the transmission down and it allows easy access to the transfercase bolts. We put the transmission back on the same way.



We use an engine hoist on the front of the engine to keep the back end of the engine down.



About 4. 5-5 hours on a floor we can have a transmission in and out.

 

[Cummins724]

I think he is referrring to an automatic. SO no slave cylinder to worry about.

Sorry... . didn't catch that.

 

[MFranz]

transmission Questions.

Thanks for the replys. The transmission is a 47RE. I don't have a Porta Power or a engine hoist. The truck is on the ground not on a hoist. I have a regular floor jack and a transmission jack as well as a couple of jack stands. I also have the service manual. I have never taken out a transmission before and as they tell me this thing weighs up to 350 lbs I want to get as much ammo as I can before I start. It is a 4 wheel drive and the manual says to remove the transfer case . I am just not sure of the best sequence to follow. The manual also says to remove the starter and crankshaft position sensor. Do I have to jack up the truck in order to have enough clearance to roll the transmission from under the truck once its lowered to the ground. The manual also says to rotate the crankshaft in clockwise direction to access converter bolts. Not clear on how to do this. What do they mean by converter bolts.

Thanks for the replys everyone. The input is appreciated.

Mike

 

[zstroken]

The transmission will fit under the truck but probably not on a jack. We leave the convertor on the truck and pull the transmission off, then go back and take the convertor off, but we put the convertor in the pump before we put in back on the truck. You don't need to remove the starter. The convertor bolts are accessed on the passenger side right below the transmission cooler. There is about a 1. 5" inspection cover. YOu don't have to hoist the engine. We use to just block the front of it. THis isn't absolutely necessary, it just makes for more clearance to get the transmission in and out.

 

[JCutter]

I did this a couple of months ago for the first time. I would remove the inspection plate and drain the converter while you take off the drive line componets.



I took the transfer case off first.



The cross-member was a treat. A sledge will be your friend. I tapped it to the rear (yes tapped not beat) to get it out. I thought i was screwed when that thing popped out because the frame came together like an inch more than i wanted. Not to worry it was supprisingly easy to get back in.



Have your jack in hand to take the transfer case down and then you can use it on the trannny. Like Z said the transmission will fit under the truck but not on the jack. Just slide it out and you might have to tip it sideways. It was kind of tricky using the jack and shacking the transmission to get it off the converter with the clearance of the body but doable especially if youve done it before.



After you finish the fun part is getting it all back up.



If you look at the crossmember there looks to be a notch on each side. (there looked to be on mine) When you put it back up from the back put them notches at a 45* where the CM should be in place and smack it with the sledghammer on one side then the other. I think i used my knees to hold it up. Mine popped right back in with little tapping.



I tried to put it in from the bottom (didnt work) i tried to put one side on half way and beat the other side down the rail and that didnt work either.





Good Luck

 

[nps]

A hydraulic bottle jack and a block of wood will spread the frame rails and make the job sooo much easier than using a hammer.



Didn't drop the t-case on my son's 01. 5, but we did put the transmission back up without it attached and then proceeded to drop the cross member and rear mount bracket again because you can't get to the nuts otherwise. If I was going to do it over again I would put the tcase on before raising the transmission.



The exhaust hanger is also another PITA if you don't want to unbolt the downpipe. I cut it on my 01. 5 6 speed when I dropped it, and cut it on my son's 01. 5 too.



The 3rd gens are so much better designed for a transmission drop. 4 bolts for the cross member, and the exhaust hanger is bolted to the bell housing.

 

[zstroken]

I don't think the stock convertors have drain plugs.

 

[JCutter]

oops, didnt see it was stock.



So how did it go????

 

[MFranz]

Well its out. Its a lot of work. Those bolts and nuts were on really tight. Some

were almost impossible to get to. The torque converter is still in. Im taking that out tomorrow. Those nuts are on tight also. There not reverese thread are they. Any pointers would be appreciated. Does the torque converter have to go back in a certain way. The trannys not stock its a DTT so I was able to drain the torque converter.

Thanks to all for the support. I dont think I would have attempted this project without the TDR.

Thanks Again

Mike

 

[Cummins724]

Well its out. Its a lot of work. Those bolts and nuts were on really tight. Some

were almost impossible to get to. The torque converter is still in. Im taking that out tomorrow. Those nuts are on tight also. There not reverese thread are they. Any pointers would be appreciated. Does the torque converter have to go back in a certain way.

Thanks to all for the support. Idont think I would have attempted this project without the TDR.

Thanks Again

Mike

You gotta put the torque converter into the transmission before install. You must make sure that it goes all the way in by turning it as you push it in. You will know when it seats in.

 

[MFranz]

Are the torque converter bolts standard thread. They seem to be a bit tight.

I want to make sure before I put to much force against them. I am going to go to the auto parts store and get some kind of anti seize to hopefully break them loose. How many bolts are there. Any special tools needed.

Thanks,Mike

 

[MFranz]

Didn't need the anti seize. Bolts came loose with a little persuassion and leverage. Now its pack it up on a pallet and ship it to Bill to be fixed at

DTT. Could use a few pointers on the install. Im going to put the torque converter in the transmission and then install the transmission. I am thinking I would bolt the transmission to the engine first then put the transfer case on and then the crossmember support. I remember there was one bolt that I couldn't get off

until I had the cross member out so I don't want that in my way when I go to bolt the transfer case to the transmission. Should I use loctite on any of the bolts and / or nuts. I belive the specs for the torque converter bolts call for 35#

and blue loctite. I am thinking of using the red loctite on those bolts as from reading some previous posts there have been issues with these bolts.

What do you think. What should I beware off and how can I make this a bulletproof install

Thanks again for all the feedback. It is most appreciated.



Take Care

Mike

 

[Cummins724]

Use locktite on all the bolts & you are on the right track with bolting the t-case to transmission before the crossmember. It will make the install easier... . also clean all gasket materials off the T-case where it bolts to the transmission & install new gasket with a coat of black RTV sealer. You are doing good... ... Good Luck with the install.

 

[jeeping_0]

This is a little late for Mike but let me share my experience. My buddies pulled a NV4500 a few months ago and spent hours fighting the cross member. In 3 min on TDR I learned the porta-power trick. I pulled my NV5600 w/ transfer last weekend by myself in 2 hours. After it was out I measured the cross member 32" ,inside frame rails 31". Reinstalled the next day,with buddy's help in 4 hours. The porta-power would only spread frame 31. 5",so I pulled the next cross member back loose on one end,tried again and no problem. The cross member slid right in. BTW it took my flimsy trans jack and 2 floor jacks to lift the trans/transer back into the hole.