injection pump mods?

[Blue Ox1]

I have a few question for the injection pump guy's . I'm kinda in debate with the shop that rebuilt my pump,The history ,had the pump rebuilt and figured it would be a good time to get a 3200 gov spring added and advance the timing at the same time ,i got the truck back and it ran great about 1 month of driving the truck the fuel solenoid stuck open ,I called the shop and told them brought them the truck and they changed the solenoid everything was fine for another month well the solenoid stuck again so i called them and told them so they looked at the solenoid and the rubber tip on the solenoid was tore same spot as last time. The shop called me and said they wanted to take the pump off and take a look at it,everything should of been covered by warranty the receipt shows a warranty is intact. Well I get a call today and the shop owner tells me the gov spring is what is causing the tip to tear and say's I owe atleast 8 hrs ,Now for the question isn't the fuel solenoid on the low pressure side of the pump he did say that they set the fuel flow way high on the rebuild and that it was almost double stock flow now i just want to know about whether the solenoid is on the low side or not and he told me the pressure on the solenoid goes up with rpm which I can somewhat see but I can't see the lift pump supplying enough to rip the seal. Sorry about the rambling and the long post. I realize the whole modifications you are your own warranty but at the same time I cant see a gov. spring blowing out your fuel solenoid when so many others have the same setup . Thank's Joe

 

[jrjuday]

Joe, I'm no pump expert, but I'm in your corner on this one. If the pump shop installed the spring when they did the rebuild, I think they should stand behind it just like they would any other part they replaced. Until someone more knowledgable than I can shed some light, I can't see how the gov. spring could cause the solenoid tip to tear. Crap, now i'm gonna have to grt my VE manual out and look into this or I'll never get to sleep tonite...

 

[BradyWilliams]

RE: VE Pump Solenoid Failure

Sorry to hear that you are having problems. The fuel shut off solenoid is separate from the gov. and or spring assy. Pulling the pump off the truck is a mystery of why. When the solenoid is de-energized it usually is not re-energized until the engine has died and you are ready to restart. The pressure at that time is 0psi and the solenoid should easily pull in again with no problems. You may need to look at a short or a break in the solenoid wire. This may cause the rubber tip to pull off while you drive the vehicle. Or the solenoid could be defective or of poor quality. But most fuel injection shops are honest and normally take care of their customers so it may be that they have a point of view that I haven't seen. I thought I would try to help with your weird problem.

 

[dpuckett]

I am by no means a VE expert, or even to the point of being "quite knowledgeable," but I will tell you that the solenoid is in no way related to the governor spring. And, with higher RPMs, the fuel pressure will normally go DOWN, as the higher RPMs require more fuel just to maintain the faster turning, not to mention the increased load demanding more fuel. Use more fuel from the high pressure side, supply pressure decreases, as you only have a finite amount of fuel coming from the lift pump.



You can get a 1/8" NPT threaded banjo bolt to replace the banjo bolt coming out of the fuel filter housing (it has a 10mm head bolt in stock form for bleeding the fuel filter) and hook your boost gauge to it to check fuel pressure for a short run down the road, and see what happens when you step on it in higher gears.



Daniel

 

[PToombs]

I have the same problem with mine since I turned in the fuel screw. It is called chipping. It's ok until I start to hammer on it. It's not the pressure, it's the flow of fuel. Your moving more fuel with the pump turned up. Somebody on here suggested I turn down the plunger on a lathe until the metal shows, leaving a ring of rubber on the edge. I think I am going to try that. Option B is installing a shut off cable. Optoin C is drive it nicely ( yeah right! ).

 

[Blue Ox1]

Yeah the cable was one option suggested I just didn't feel right having a manual shut down,because the shop I'm dealing with say's the flow is taking out the tip like you said but I would think that they set the flow volume when they build the pump and not say it is caused by having the 3200 gov. spring in like they are saying and from the way it looks they did not install the 3200 gov. spring like they said because the parts list on the receipt does not show a part # for the 3200 spring and my truck never got close to that rpm . the only reason I didn't take it back to them for that is that the truck ran exceptionally well after the rebuild. From what the shop told me is that they increased the flow volume from 85cc to 160cc and they are saying that is caused by the gov. spring. So we will see truck is suppose to be ready on thurs. afternoon I'll probably pick it up on friday and go in and talk to them in person and settle this,thank's for the help guy's

Joe