Injection Pump Removal

[bvanetten]

Ok guys, I need some help. I'm pulling my VE and H1C/12 and sending them to PDR where they will be magically transformed into a hybrid 35/14 and a tuned up pump. Turbo is off, piece of cake. Everything is detached from the pump and it is loose but it won't come off. I could pry on it with a large screwdriver or something but I don't want to hurt anything. Can I pry on it?



Bruce

 

[dpuckett]

DONT pry on it!!!

You hafta pull the oil filler tube out and get a timing gear puller and pop the pump off the gear. It should come off after that. If that isnt the probelm, try loking around the P/S pump and see if a bracket for the lower part of the pump is in the way.



Make sure engine is at true TDC, or the bench timing will be worthless.



Daniel

 

[bvanetten]

Cool. I generally don't subscribe to the "get a bigger hammer" school of mechanics so were good. Didn't know about the TDC requirement, i'll set that up before pulling also.

 

[Greenleaf]

The Gear Puller.........

The puller used is also a (or known as) steering wheel (hub) puller. The local Sears store will have one. You'll have to get the correct length of bolts (two) which will thread into the pump gear.



Maybe someone within ear shout could post the correct size of bolt thread for you.



Greenleaf

 

[Scot]

I cut a piece of flat bar 2x2x1/4" and drilled to holes that correspond to the holes in the pump. Tighten the two 8mm bolts to pop the gear.

 

[Paychk]

Isn't there a key on the pump shaft you have to keep an eye out for? So it doesn't fall into the engine when the pump comes loose.

 

[dpuckett]

Yup, I forgot about the key.



The bolt is a M8x1. 25 thread, I think (same thread as the intake bolts, or the lower bolt holding the pump to the rear bracket). Get one about 3" or 4" long. You can rent the timing gear puller from Auto Zone for $10 or so. I have yet to return mine. :-laf. It might require some triming with a chainsaw file to get the bolts to go close enough together.



As for finding true TDC, I can PM you the directions from the FSM if you want. You can also:

pull the #1 injector (this will require a new injector sealing washer to reinstall),

get the engine to about 30deg BEFORE TDC (pop with the timing pin, then turn CCW as you look it (about 3" on the damper. ))

Put in a 1/4" dowel (5/16" if you have a nonIC engine. )

Mark where the dowel goes into the cylinder or injector bore.

Mark your H-balancer.

Turn the engine WITH the normal direction of rotation (CW as you look at it) until the dowel meets the mark again.

Mark the H-balancer.

Dead center between the two marks is true TDC.



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

Yeah, I know all about this deal.



Make sure that the engine is at TDC. If the timing pin won't push in, then just pull it out and use your finger.



Also, then make sure to lock the shaft on the pump with the bolt on the side that is held out with that little horse-shoe washer.



Then use the steering wheel puller to push it out. And watch that little key!!!



Also, be very carefull when puting it back in. I put a small mirror on my fan so I could see the gear/key alignment as I was puting it back in.