Injection pump removal

[btoscano]

Okay guys, I followed the suggestion to tighten the tappet cover bolts and now I think its leaking worse than before! So, I'm going to change it while messing with the injectors on the timing, blah, blah, blah.



Any quick tips on pulling the injection pump? I have the fuel lines off already.



I REALLY don't want to have to pull the front cover off again, so I'm interesting in knowing if I can turn the engine so the key is at 12 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock. I guess I should have painted the end of the pump shaft so I'd know, but I didn't, so any tips on that? (And, when I go to put it all back together, how do I get the pump at 12 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock).



Looks like I will have to remove the bracket for the power steering/vacuum pump? Any special precautions on that?



I'm going to have a few beers and hope ya'll have the answers by the time I get back



-brian

 

[Ctallman]

I took the two bolts off in the middle of the p/s pump setup, it think 17mm nuts, make sure to be gentle of the o-ring inside and set it off to the side, remove the fuel lines completely, and all the throttle linkage thats in the way. Remove the plastic fill tube on the front cover where you put the oil in, both pieces just unscrew. Get a sock to fit the nut inside & run it off, then with a small mirrror and light look for the key way. if its pointed down you can have someone bump the motor over with a "flick" of the key. Make sure the 3 nuts that hold the pump to the cover are still in so the pump doesnt move. when you get it pointed up or to where it looks safe to pull, you can remove the 3 nuts holding it on. I suggest starting with the harder two on the back side. Then hold the pump tightly and remove the last easy nut toward drivers side fender. If it doesnt want to come right out, you can find the two threaded holes on the front gear and use a small puller. I found two 3" bolts that threaded in there are tightened them lightly and evenlly. Remember the face of the pump is aluminum. It doesnt take much to pop it loose, so have someone hold the pump while your doing this so its not getting beat around and you loose the key way in the front cover. When installing the pump i suggest getting a new key way from the local bosch dealer, if theres any signs of wear on the old one. Hopefully this helps alitte bit. Im sure someone will add there thoughts to.



____________________

'93 D250 4x4 Clubcab LE, 113K, NV4500 & SBC, POD's, PDR HX-35/16, pump mods, 3200gs, open air intake, borgesen, timed, auto meter pro comp gauges on a pillar

 

[tugboatphil]

Brian,



Greenleaf did my pump swap, but I was there for the "flunkie" stuff. We put the key at 12 o'clock, for obvious reasons. Didn't take the cover off, but only removed the oil fill tube. The gear is right behind that.



Good luck!!

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

If you rotate the engine till the keyway is at, say, 12:00, then, pin the pump you can remove it and reinstall it without any problems at all ... . as long as you don't "un-pin" the pump or move the engine position..... I know... what/were is the "pin" thing right... ... ... ..... hold on.....



Look here... .



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=2768&width=2



If you look directly below the area indicated for timing marks you'll see a bolt... this bolt has an odd shaped washer attached and you use that to pin the pump position so it won't move while it's of the truck.



Did I explain that ok or is it getting too late for me here...

 

[btoscano]

Okay, but if I want them to put it on the stand, locking it won't help any since they will unlock it, and I'm stuck getting the key in at 6 o'clock, right?



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

No. THis is a great misconception with our pump/engine.



Don't worry about it. Think about this for a moment. I know there has been great debate in terms of pump R&R timing etc.



The pump is keyed. The engine gear is keyed. , How COULD you get it wrong?



In a nut shell. Put the blasted key anywhere you darn well feel like it. Pull the pump. Do whatever you want with the pump. Kick it and beat it. Throw it down a mine shaft. Then reinstall it. If... ... if the key in the pump don't line up with the key way in the drive gear..... just turn the blasted pump shaft!



Time it as you like when you install it.



It's so easy that folks want to read all this technical jargin into it.

 

[btoscano]

Greenleaf,



This is what I noticed last time I was checking the timing and killing the KDP. Life really can be simple.



Question: what's the preferred method for turning the pump shaft? I had an issue with that and the big nut. The nut got real tight and was hard to get back off!!!



-brian

 

[tugboatphil]

Throw it down a mine shaft. Then reinstall it.

HOWEVER, try to wipe some of the coal dust off first.



Scott does have a good point. These engines are pretty simple. Heck, he's removed almost half the parts on mine and it's still running! :-laf :-laf

 

[btoscano]

Are the brackets that hold the injector lines together supposed to have soft or hard rubber? I know with heat and time some things get hard and brittle. Anybody replace these stuff?



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

The brackets are plastic. Hard plastic.



I turn the pump in the direction that tightens the nut. Then, "if" it's too tight, I give it a whack with a sledge hamm... ... . er Just kidding. I put an impact wrench on it and this will remove the nut very quickly w/out turning the shaft.

 

[btoscano]

Does an impact really fit on the Dodge, or is that only a school bus?



Brian

 

[Greenleaf]

Huh?

I don't understand the question.....



:-laf I "think" I get it.



Another tid-bit I didn't mention. And this tip is free. You can turn the engine a few degrees in either direction should the pump key not align perfectly with the gear key way. Just don't hit the starter motor key switch with out the injection pump in place. You "could" jump a gear tooth or three. The drive gear will simply set there when the pump is removed. It cannot go anywhere. How folks get that out of time I don't know. I reinstall the two puller cap screw into the gear's hub (with out the puller of course) to asstit in the manipulation of the gear when I install the pump. You WILL have to move the gear a small amount to get the key in alignment. If you don't, and thrust the pump in, your asking for problems.



Make for absolute certain that the pump shaft and ID of the gear hub is perfectly oil free.

 

[btoscano]

The barring tool allows for real fine precision movement of the gears.



I almost can't wear to tear into this when I get home and get that tappet gasket replaced.



What all do I have to remove besides the pump and injector lines? Looks like the fuel filter? The return line appears to be above it most of the way except by the back near the firewall. Any other "free tips" ?



I think I may leave the injectors alone and just have the Bosch shop check the pump.



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

Well, yes. But,... ..... Tugboat and "Jay" will tell you that I'm simply "full OF it"



I mark the injection lines. You see how they laying between the valve covers? So... ... . you have to remove the top one FIRST and the bottom one LAST..... right????? Some lines go to the front... others go to the rear of the cyl. head.



AND... ... please note that you cannot get to the back lines (on the pump head) untill you REMOVE the outter lines.



There is an order of removel and installation. I just don't have it before me at this time. Also, I mark them so when I throw them ALL into the bed of the truck I know what line is what by looking at the tag. I also number then in the order of removal and where it's located at. Example. "#1 front of engine middle line". (Or what ever it's called)



The fuel return. Leave it there. Just be sure to remove the clip that fastens it to the tappet cover stud. You CAN bend this line out of the way just enough to clear the pump when it's being removed and reinstalled.



The rear pump mount will pivot down and away from the pump with out removing that middle cap screw, It's tough to get at let alone remove cuz the dern power steering pump is there.



Told you I'm full of it.

 

[btoscano]

Hopefully I'll remember how to put the injector lines in place. I didn't bother to mark them. I was feeling a little lucky. What surprised me was 2 of the delivery valves turned as I went to loosen the lines!!! I had to hold them in place with a 14 mm as I loosened them. I can search for the order of lines, I have seen it in the forum before if I run into problems.



I am actually missing one of the bolts for the tappet cover by that fuel return behind the IP!!!! But its the rear near the firewall that is leaking badly.



Thanks for the tip on the power steering bracket.



-brian

 

[btoscano]

This afternoon I got the pump off and took it down to the Bosch dealer. They're going to put it on the test stand and set it to the high side of the factory specs, adjust the idle, etc.



Thanks all for the help. I'll let you all know how it turns out.



-brian