Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injection Pump Troubleshooting.

[MFranz]

I have a friend who has a 1999 that has 270,000 plus miles. It quit running and he had it checked out at two shops. One shop quoted him $1500 to replace the fuel pump (lift pump) with a in the tank conversion. The other shop

told him they would replace the Injection pump. I went over and looked at the truck and the first thing I noticed was it was below empty on the fuel gauge.

We went and got 5 gallons of diesel and tried to start it. I could hear the lift pump making noise when turning the key on but when we tried to start

it. Nothing. The next thing I tried was to bled any air out of the system by

loosening #1,3, and 4 cylinders. At first there was no fuel coming out of these lines but after a few more cranks fuel started to appear at a dribble.

My questions are

#1 Is the fuel that is coming from the Injection pump supposed to be at a greater flow. Shouldnt there be lots of high pressured fuel coming out of these lines?



#2 Is the sound that I'm hearing upon turning the key on a good sign that the fuel pump is working?



My first instinct with a truck with this many miles would be to change the fuel pump and injection pump but my friend doesn't have the money and

I want to give him a more accurate diagnosis. I don't have a code reader

and when I cycle the key three times it doesn't show anything on the odometer like it does on my 2001.







Thanks,Mike

 

[Sticks]

Start with cracking the banjo bolt on the VP inlet side to bleed all the air pre pump. If you get decent flow there when you bump the starter, then continue with cracking open the injector lines. It may take a while.

Get a fuel pressure gauge to see what the lift pump is doing. If it is less than 10psi when you bump the starter, then replace it. Gotta have good supply before you start working on the VP.

Most auto parts stores and Harbor Freight, and I think even some hardware stores sell cheap code readers for under $30. Find out if there are any codes and report back with your findings.

$1500 to replace the LP with an intank pump is robbery. It is a 1. 2 flat rate job, and the part is $350ish. I strongly recommend if you go that route to replace the block mounted pump as well and run both. It will take a little custom wiring but it is a reliable system to go with. Otherwise go with a FASS or some sort and skip both the intank and block pump all together.

 

[mhenon]

... ... I strongly recommend if you go that route to replace the block mounted pump as well and run both. It will take a little custom wiring but it is a reliable system to go with. Otherwise go with a FASS or some sort and skip both the intank and block pump all together.

I've been running that very system, intank pump feeding a frame mounted Carter, for years with no problems. The pressure was on the high side though at 26psi. Added Glacier's bypass valve and adjusted it for 15psi.

As for the electrical I let the ECM run the Carter (through a relay) and the intank runs off an accessory fuse (to a relay also).

Intank pumps in general are usually very reliable. DC's just doesn't supply enough pressure for the VP44. It makes a great little pusher pump though and keeps a nice head of pressure to the main LP.

If you're building a system from scratch I wouldn't even consider going this route. As Sticks said get a FASS or AIRDOG and be done with it. I was given a free intank pump by DC when they swapped out my VP and had 3 spare Carters. Still on the first Carter after 60K miles of use.

Mike

 

[MFranz]

Thanks All for the feedback. Sticks I should of cracked that Banjo bolt in the first place.

Mike I tried to talk the owner into going to a Fass our Airdog system but he doesn't have the $$$.

The other big concern is the inside of the engine compartment is covered in oil. I'm not sure if its excess blow-by our from something else. If it is excess blow-by is it even worth fixing on such a limited budget. Let me know what you think.

Thanks.

Mike

 

[Sticks]

Clean it first then figure out where the blow by is coming from.

In tank pump is easy, 2 bolts to hold the tank up, empty tank weighs maybe 15#, fuel is 7# per gallon. I generally let the mostly empty ones down on my chest and slide them off. No special tools needed to disconnect fuel lines.

 

[MFranz]

Thanks Sticks,The owner has a pressure washer and were going to clean it up. I'm going to try and see if my Smarty will pick up the codes on his engine and go from there. Gut feeling is a VP44 and lift pump. Will see.



Thanks,

Mike

 

[MFranz]

Hooked up the Smarty and here are the codes that we got. P-0253,0253,0254and 1688. All pertaining to the VP 44. My friend doesn't have the $$$ to fix his

truck now. Looking to work on it when he gets his $$$$ together. Thinking of going with a Industrial Injection VP44 and a Fass fuel pump system. Hopefully

be good to go after that and ready to go another 200,000 +++ miles.



Mike