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injector advice needed

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Diesel adative Racor ADT 1116

Need help replacing my truck

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Ok I need some advice on what to buy. I have my truck in the dealer and they diagnosed my problem as bad injectors. Have to replace them all. Now the price was way out of what I could afford. Over $5000.00 to repair the truck. I know I have found different ones for a lot less than that. I just don't know what to buy. Not looking for any more performance just stock. I have an 06 with the 5.9. Any help would be appreciated. Should I buy from cummins or can I go aftermarket? Thanks for any help in advance.
 
Ypo are probably better off going with a performance injector from Bosch Motor Sports than just stock production run injectors. The BMS's are new updated bodies with better nozzles and usually balance out better than new stock.

BBI's area good choice also, new injector with a lot of QC done to make them effective.

Bosch remans are a decent lower cost alternative. Given you have a local source you can return one if needed they seem decent. How long they will last or how well they perform is always a question that has to be answered by use. Make usre it is a GENUINE Bosch reman not reman Bosch injector, there is a huge difference.

You will spend anywhere from $2100 to 3600 on injectors depending on your choice and the quality. Install will cost you something unless you do it yourself.

Don't buy dealer injectors. If they have the typical offering it is some of the worst remans around at high prices.
 
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Thanks for the help I will be looking into these suggestions. More money than I want to spend but have no choice at this time gotta have my truck.
 
What are the chances that all 6 are bad? Just seems like you could test them separately and just replace the bad ones? What are the pro's and cons t not doing them all?
 
They all have the same age, they will fail shortly one after the other.

That's why it is recommended to change all six in one time.
 
You SHOULD do all 6 at the same time. However, you CAN do 1 or two as you get funds. If you can identity which ones are bad I would just replace them with remans until you have the funds to do a good set. You will want to watch things closely for any problems but replacing less thna full set can be done effectively.

The trick will be identifying the bad ones, depending on what exactly has failed. Testing will NOT find all the problems and the ability of the tester will determine if they can find the problems that are obvious with testing.
 
Just did a set of BB 1's Love them.....gained .67MPG on a 1600 mile run driving all conditions 3 mountain pass's freeway,stop start,75 miles of 3rd gear climbing up and down hwy 49 in Cal. Truck really came back to life and runs so smooth.
 
Im in Amity Oregon. Source Automotive in Clackamas Ore. is where I got them. I had an injector fail on the road and they wanted $800 for 1 rebuilt injector.....I said no thanks called Bill at Source and had him overnight a set of BB 1's ( I had been looking at them for a while) I believe they were $3600. As you can see I drive my truck it has not felt this good in forever the midrange torque is amazing from 1400rpm to 1800rpm it pulls hard. Exaust temps are noticably down. I've ran a Smarty on my truck for over 600K I run it on level 3(I tried them all) with the new injectors I've backed down to level one and its stronger than it was before on 3. On one tank flat road 60mph no head wind I got the highest mpg I've ever gotten towing my 30ft trailer 14.6 I hit in the 13.2 to 13.4 at least on one tank in Cal every trip through there this trip I averaged over 12 for 1600 miles in all terrain including 3 mountain passes.
 
Got hit with this and had to tow from the dealer at 8 k for repairs just not happening, said they give me 7 k for the truck in trade, got some injectors from pensacola diesel injection they are working fine to date reworked egr and cleaned all emissions had top end tore open for about a week ,bad fuel caused a lot of problems dropped tank looked like emulsified water with sugar sand flushed everything all labor

had frozen fasteners and used a torch for nuts and bolts on the exhaust side had to make some wrenches to fit in tight places also under fire wall is tuff those crossover tubes are tuff as are pulling injectors under the firewall.

Austin Diesel
 
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Thanks for reply. ColemanR Im just not convinced this is my problem. It runs great when its cold but will not run when its warm unless you keep the rpm up above 1700. Sound like the same problems you experienced?
 
It runs great when its cold but will not run when its warm unless you keep the rpm up above 1700.

Symptoms? That is pretty generic so hard to tell what you mean by "won't run".

Depending on what failed in the injectors or fuel system, there will be a definite difference between warm and cold operation. Once the engine is up to operating temp the fueling program changes. It is not unusual to have problems when the engine is warm that are not there when it is cold.
 
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My truck only had a rough idle when cold and a little noisey. I figured it was just getting tired as she has a few miles on her ;) was'nt using oil but....then I was going through a construction zone and I could hear a very loud ticking sound which my first thought was a injector as I slowed down it threw a code and went to limp. I checked all my wiring and cleared the code truck started and ran ok but had a miss drove back to a dealer without throwing a code. Long story short we put injectors in and all was good still had a slight rough idle but ran really good. Till the truck ran for several hours then as I came down to idle threw the code again....this went on for the rest of my trip and only when the truck had ran for several hours. Cold was no problem other than just the slightest rough idle. If I kept the idle up and came down slow no problem. I assumed it was the valve cover gasket changed it still the same thing I had an extra ECM so I changed it out......drum roll please the truck has not ran this smooth in I can't remember. I think I had more than one problem as the injectors really made it run a lot better and there was 1 injector making a lot of niose even without resetting the code we used a temp gun and the cylinder was down almost 20 deg at idle. The injectors were ready on my truck as they had almost 300K on them. Hope this helps.
 
symptoms

What my truck does is runs fine when its cold. As soon as the temps hit 180 the truck starts to become sluggish and blowing white/blue smoke. Then within minutes the truck will lose all power and stall. Now in order to get it to restart I have to turn off the key and then it will restart but within a minute it will die and continue this until its cold again.
Also I noticed that when it does this after turning off the key the injectors are still firing. this could be my edge programmer trying to cool the turbo. I have replaced the lift pump and fuel pressure control regulater control on the cp3. What changes when it gets warm to control the fuel?
 
I would pull the Edge off first and see what happens I've heard people having problems with them in the past. I can say I would do this again in a heartbeat I just came back from a 5500 mile trip and gained an average of .92 MPG. I averaged 11.98 MPG for 5500 miles I went over the Siskiyous's in Oregon 3 times the Rocky's twice and the Grapevine in Cal once. I was running around 60 in Cal and 62 to 65 everywhere else. Mind you this is all towing and my truck is running better that it has in along time.
 
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