Injector connector tubes

[MD500E]

I just recived a set of DD2's and the new injecor tubes that piers recomends for older 24 valves. I figured once i got the connector tubes, I would figure out where they go. Well, here they are and I have no idea! The tube looks like a 3" long bullet with the back end threaded. My question is where do they go?, are they hard to change?, do i need any new o-rings, gaskets, ect. ? Thanks!



Kevin

 

[LSMITH]

Kevin, do you see where the injector lines go into the head? That 19mm hex on the injector line is what threads on the tubes. I have not changed them so I am not sure if you need any seals or anything else to put them in. Lots of guys have, the rest of your answer should be here shortly.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

What Howard said. You will have to remove the fuel lines from the VP44 to the head completely to install them. The easiest way to do that is to unbolt the clamps holding the fuel lines from the intake manifold, then loosen all the connections to the head, then all the connections on the fuel pump. You can take the lines off in two bundles of 3 lines each. This is a lot easier than taking the lines off individually because you don't have to keep track off all the clamps, etc. When you pop the injectors out you can then reach in and grab the connector tubes with a small pair of angled needle nose pliers. The install the injector according to the instructions and then slide the new connector tubes in. When I did my injectors and tubes it took me about 3 1/2 hours versus the normal 1 1/2-2 hrs to do just the injectors. The hardest part is getting the lines off and back onto the back of the VP44. You will definately need a crows foot and the cut open socket for the injector lines doesn't hurt.

 

[MikeR]

Your new connector tubes should have come with 6 new small O-rings. The injectors have new washers and big O-rings too, so no, you won't need anything else.

 

[juicedcummins]

BE carefull and do not over-torque the injector lines when you put it back together.

I don't have the latest spec but it should be in the instuctions.

 

[Sean Flanagan]

You really don't need to remove the lines from the VP44. Just remove and/or loosen the brackets that hold the lines to the top of the head. There is enough flex to move the line up, or off to the side, and pop the connector tubes out. In fact, you have to take the connectors out FIRST or you won't get the injectors out. A carefully placed (against the side, in the threads of the connector), small, flat blade screwdriver is all it takes to pry the tubes out of their holes.



When just swapping injectors, it is enough to just pop the tubes out of their seated position. They don't have to be completely removed.



I have been able to do a injector swap (with tubes) in about an hour.



Trying to remove the injectors, without backing out the connector tubes will probably be impossible. If you succede, you will probably ruin both the injector and connector tube.



I think there is instructions for doing this on the TST web site. www.tstproducts.com as well as the Diesel Dynamics we site: www.dieseldynamics.com (at least there used to be)



Have Fun!

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I started to do it that way Sean. Piers was the guy who recommended removing the lines in bundles. I know of a few guys that tried removing the injector tubes by moving them out of the way after loosening the clamps and they bent their lines up big time. Once the lines are removed the injector tubes will pop out easily when you pop the injectors out, maybe I wasn't clear that I meant to pull the injectors after the lines are pulled - there is then no tension on the tubes. JMHO



-Steve

 

[MD500E]

Thanks for the info guys! I am going to give it a try right now. This may sound like a dumb question but how do you torque the injector lines. If you attach a crows foot to a torque wrench, dosent it change the amount of torque the line is getting?



Kevin

 

[Sean Flanagan]

I assumed when using the crows foot, that close was good enough! But if your picky, you might want to reduce the torque setting of the torque wrench by a lb or so to compensate.

 

[GDouglas]

As long as the crowsfoot is at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, the torque is the same as what you set the wrench at. Any angle other than 90 the actual torque will be different than what the wrench idicates.