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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) injector help...quick!

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The 911 forum isn't working for me for some reason.



I need some quick advice. I am at the point where I need to torque down the hold down 8mm bolts.



All the directions say 89 inch pounds. I got a Snap-On inch pound torquometer. I set the pointer to 89, tighten and when the pointer points to 0, I'm done. Easy enough.



But I thought I'd test it on one I hadn't removed yet to see how close that bolt was to 89 inch pounds and it, plus all the remaining ones are no where near 89 inch pounds. They are much less than that. Seems like they are about 25-30 inch pounds as installed from the factory.



What gives. The wrench is like new and the diesel mechanic I borrowed it from uses it for this exact job, except on big Cummins and Cats. Plus he hardly uses it a has never damaged it. Its one of his prized tools.



Is this 89 inch pound torque super critical?? I am afraid if I torque the front one down, I wont be able to torque down the one under the rocker arm to the same amount.



I didn't loosen the back one. The retainer hold down just pulls out from under it when I remove the front bolt.



HELP... . I cant take this!!
 
I had mine done 6 mos ago,but my installer an I were just talking today and we discussed torque values and I think he said under 20 inch lbs for injectors (I might be way off) So I would wait for an expert on this.
 
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Well, I agree less than 20 ft-lbs is more than enough. 89 inch-pounds is what I'm talking about. Thats equivalent to 7. 42 ft-lbs. (89 divided by 12)
 
I went to a friends and borrowed his new "click" torque wrench for inch pounds.



I suppose I should state this for simplicity. .



I'll use 89 inch pounds as stated everywhere. But I didn't touch the rear bolts when removing the hold downs. The hold down caps just slid right out. Now, when I tighten the removed bolt to 89 in-lbs, how will I know the back ones (I cant get to with the torque wrench) are 89 inch pounds also. I am sure of one thing... the bolts I removed sure were not 89 in-lbs from the factory. They were about half that. Thats why I'm worried about the rear bolts being right. Or are the real bolts that critical. I knew something like this would happen. Only to meeeeee..... :(:{
 
It's pretty critical

I'm no master mechanic, but I've found that anytime we're dealing in inch lbs, it's pretty danged critical. My inch lb wrench doesn't have a rachet on it and I use a regular (not deep well) socket and it reaches.



I wouldn't worry how it came from the factory, i would get the closest to 89 inch lbs I could get.



Wiredawg
 
The injectors are sealed by copper washers, they are designed to crush to make the seal. When you torque to 89 in/lbs you are not torqueing the bolts per se, you are establishing the seal and providing tension to maintain the seal. The residual torque after the washer has crushed is engineered to be enough so don't worry about it, it will be fine. Go with the 98 in/lb figure, and drive on.



FWIW, I have had no trouble at all torqueing the bolts on the rear 2 injectors with a click type wrench, a dial type would be nearly impossible though.
 
Thanks fellow members...

I appreciate the help (peace of mind). Now that I think about it, sealing the copper washer makes so much sense. I imagine mine must have relaxed over 79000 miles thus the reduced torque when taking off. Thanks a million, I'm going back out to the garage right now. I need to get me a laptop so I can take it out in the garage and get this information in "real time". Thanks again. 89 in/lbs it is.



I couldn't imagine owning this truck without the TDR.



PS, my injectors had quite a bit of carbon built up on the tips. I wonder if this could have been blocking the ports. I doubt it with the pressure they operate at. But I bet it dont help the spray pattern any.
 
i didnt hear back from you, i hope you recieved the offline msg i sent, hope it answered some questions for you . i see your now installing rv-275s. . enjoy:)
 
The carbon is normal and is not a problem, just the nature of the beast. A good fuel treatment now and then will help keep the ports clear, but the one thing that will help is a good long hard tow. Hold the EGT at 1100+ for an hour or two and they will look a lot better.
 
Sorry about that heliopilot,



My email address is for work... which is usually where I am at sneaking in some TDR time. I'm on the home computer now which has a different email address. Guess I should put both in my profile. I'll read it in the morning first thing. Thanks all.
 
Well, I didnt start it last night. It was 11:30pm when I got done and my next door neighbors would have called the State Police if I rumbled this thing to life in the driveway at that hour. It echoes louder when in the garage too. They all just stare at me like I'm driving an 18 wheeler when I get home from work. So I know they wouldn't appreciate it. Kinda like when I had a Harley. Nice people, they just wouldn't understand. I need to get out in the country a little more.



Besides, I didn't have a value for the valve cover torque so I had to look that up today anyway. Need a shop manual next.



Oh, I wanted to start it for sure, but I figured I'd be a nice guy last night and let the gasoline car driving people rest a little.



PS: Everything went great. I am sure it will work. I may give it a shot if I go home on my lunch break so I can post the results.
 
Let me know about the valve cover torque. I never could figure out that one. I just tightened it down until it bottomed out. Hope this doesn't cause any problems.



Charles
 
I tightened mine up to 10 ft lbs just so they would be even. Works just fine.



Well, I put the valve cover on, looked through the instructions one more time to double check all that I did, checked for any loose tools under the hood, and hooked up the batteries.



I bumped the starter 3 times, let the lift pump do its thing, put the pedal down half way and it started up after about two 8 second cranking periods.



She came to life with a little smoke, a little rough too. Then after about 20-30 seconds, smoothed out and runs good. The injector install was a great success.



I only had time to run it a little after a warm up. I went around the block a few times. Saw a couple of good puffs of black when the turbo was still spinnin slow.



Now, I never got up to full operating temperature, only about 150 degrees. And my idle miss (which is why I started this whole ordeal in the first place) seemed to still be there a little. Runs great otherwise.



So tonight, Im gonna drive it a while and see how that idle miss is going once up to full temperature, which is when it does it.



I sure hope it isn't there. Its driving me CRAZY. I hate it when I know this thing should idle very smooth and instead there is a noticable miss. I swear its like someone shuts the key off for 1/100th of a second every three seconds.
 
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