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Injector install procedure with photos

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2003 Turbo Upgradeon

Break down 06 on freeway!

sag2

TDR MEMBER
Photos are posted again on page 9. Updated 11/21/17


Thanks to rbattelle for giving me the nudge to do this photo how to, and for resizing the photos so they could be posted. The injector change is not that difficult, but there are a couple of problems that can be avoided by paying attention to what you are doing. I have tried to take too many photos so I covered everything, so if it looks like overkill, it was planned that way. Now for the disclaimers.

This is intended to assist you with an injector change to make it more visual along with the factory service manual. Please follow all directions and cautions in the factory service manual. One caution in the manual is that all injectors look the same, but are not necessarily interchangeable. Be sure you know what you are installing if not making a direct factory replacement. Also note all cautions working around high pressure fuel systems. Also note the photos and directions are taken from an 04 engine and the 04 factory service manual, and might be different from the truck you are working on. Use the appropriate adjustment specs from the proper year manual. Note that 2006 exhaust valve setting is different from 03-05.

One final note, in addition to the special tools noted, this job can not be done without a quality inch pound and foot pound torque wrench which were not shown in the photos. Although the procedure shown used all the factory supplied special tools, the job can be completed without them if need be. That being said, when the injectors are $400+ each, the investment in the tools is probably a good idea. All of the special tools can be purchased at Miller special tool, an SPX company.



The following hand tools are required.

24mm or 15/16 end wrench

19mm end wrench

24mm or 15/16 socket

10mm socket

8mm socket

Screw driver

Inch pound torque wrench (I use dial type)

Foot pound torque wrench



Some gaskets might be required, so read the entire procedure in the service manual so you know what gaskets they recommend replacing. From my experience, most of the seals can be used many times as long as they are not damaged. I would suggest you have the seals and gaskets on hand unless you can obtain them obtain them quickly. Also see if they are returnable to the dealer if you do not need them. The valve cover gasket should almost never need to be replaced if it was not leaking before you removed it.
 
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Remove valve cover (oil cap, plastic cover, hoses from breather box, valve cover bolts)

Note that there are rubber O-ring seals on the valve cover bolts
 
Remove high pressure fuel line(s) from fuel rail and injector. Be very careful not to bend any lines.

Remove the connector tube nut(s)
 
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Using Miller 9015 connector tube puller, thread the tool into the connector tube and pry/pull the tube straight out. The nut is still in place in the photo, but obviously needs to be removed first. If you don’t have the 9015, you really risk damaging the connector tube threads if the tube sticks in the head.
 
Remove exhaust rocker(s)

Remove injector electrical nuts and the two injector hold down bolts

Using Miller 9010, assemble tool per the service manual procedure and pull the injector up and out of the bore
 
If you do not have the special tool, be very careful as you pry the injector out by prying on each side of the hold down a little at a time
 
Inspect the injector and connector tube end for any damage as detailed in the service manual. Remove and discard the copper seal ring (be sure it did not stay in the bore) and clean the tip of any carbon with clean diesel fuel and a soft brush. Clean the injector bore in the head and blow it out. The connector tube crushes into a hole in the injector to seal the tube. There can not be any deformation of the connector tube, or it will not seal properly. Also the connector tube has an edge filter built into it that breaks up small particles of debris into particles that will not harm the injector. I always tap the tube on a piece of white paper to dislodge and inspect for any debris. Also look at the tube for any corrosion from contaminates in the fuel.
 
If everything has been inspected/cleaned/replaced, it is time to reinstall the injector. Replace the O-ring on the injector and lube it with some engine oil. Replace the copper seal ring with the appropriate thickness (as directed in service manual) and put a dab of oil on it to keep it on the injector as you install. The injector is installed with the hole facing the intake manifold. The retainer is pinned on the injector to hold it in the proper orientation to the connector tube

Tighten the injector carefully following the service manual. From the 04 service manual, torque the injector bolts to 44 inch pounds, then back off the bolts. Install the connector tube with the balls facing up. The balls will go into a slot in the head, and keep the tube from rotating in the head when you loosen/tighten the nut.
 
Tighten the connector tube to 11 foot pounds. This is the step most technicians’ short cut, and use an end wrench to tighten the connector tube. By not correctly installing the tube, you risk leaks internal to the engine that can cause hard starting, stalling, and rough running etc. The reason most technicians use the end wrench is because to get the socket in, you have to remove anything that limits access to the socket. This takes extra time that some guys will not spend.

Tighten the injector bolts alternately to 89 inch pounds. Then tighten the connector tube to 37 foot pounds. Tighten the injector wire connector nuts to 11 inch pounds. Be very careful to not over tighten.

Install the rocker arm (the elephant foot that connects the two exhaust valves can go on either way) and set the valve lash per the service manual.



Install the fuel line (be careful not to bend the line) and tighten using a back up wrench on the connector tube nut
 
Reinstall the valve cover (inspect the gasket for rolling, cuts), breather hoses, plastic cover, and oil cap. Reinstall the grid heater with new gaskets (early engines have ground strap, late use the gasket for the ground) and make sure the electrical connections are tight. Reinstall the intake with new gaskets and torque to 18 foot pounds. Install the intake hose and tighten the clamp to 95 inch pounds. Connect battery cables. Double check all your connections and you are good to start it. Inspect carefully for any fuel leaks. If any external leaks are noted, shut engine down and loosen/tighten the fuel tube nuts. Recheck before you drive it.
 
Sag2, this thread is simply AWESOME. By all rights, it should be published in the next issue of TDR, in color. I cannot thank you enough for taking the time and effort to create it. I really think it will be a great asset to all of us 3rd gen owners (we'll all probably end up doing this at some point).



Your unique experience is a great asset to this forum. I only wish there were a tech like you somewhere near me.



-Ryan
 
rbattelle said:
Sag2, this thread is simply AWESOME. By all rights, it should be published in the next issue of TDR, in color. I cannot thank you enough for taking the time and effort to create it. I really think it will be a great asset to all of us 3rd gen owners (we'll all probably end up doing this at some point).



Your unique experience is a great asset to this forum. I only wish there were a tech like you somewhere near me.



-Ryan



I agree with Ryan. . outstanding!!!
 
wow

Sag2, fantastic write-up! I guess I'm lucky that you live in S. F... . about 3 hours from me. Job well done. Thanks!
 
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