Injector Installation Question ??????

[ARARAR]

Finsihed my 275 injector instalation today. All seems well: took it a bit before it fired up, but after cycling the pump sev
eral times, bingo!
After doing the first three it seemed more logigal to seat the injector first, torque the down and then loosen them, reconnect the HP lines, torque them down and then finish the torque on the injectors; that way the injector tubes would align better with the injectors since they were free to twist according to the injectoe tube poressure.
What do you think????

 

[Archive]

Arar...

I am far from an expert... but since you asked, I will give my opinion.

I pull out the injector tubes prior to loosening the injector. Therefore, I reverse the order when re-installing. Torque the injector, then pop in the tube.

My other concern would be to keep torque-ing and re-torque-ing those little bolts that hold the injector in. I wonder if that can do damage after a while?

I could be way off here... just my own thoughts!

 

[fj40charles]

When I installed my DD1's, the instruction said to install the injectors (push them down) without torqueing them down. Push in the fuel lines and an hand tighten down the 19mm nut to hold the fuel line in place. Then you torque the injectors to 89 inch pounds.

Hope this helps.

Charles

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2000 QC 2500 4x4 LWB ETC 6 Speed Anti-Spin 3. 54 Trailer Tow, DD1's, Practical Solutions boost module
=========================
1969 Toyota FJ40
350 TBI, Turbo 400, ARB lockers front/rear, 4 wheel power disk brakes, 4. 88 ring/pinion, 3 speed transfer case, full roll cage, Warn 8274, MRT 36 bolt beadlocks with Super Swamper Boggers (16x35x15), Saginaw Power steering, custom bumpers/fenders/nerf bars. Conquered Tellico and going to Moab this May. Loves to be pulled behind the Dodge and pass the powerjokes going up hills.

 

[ARARAR]

That brings up an other question; when torquing down the injectors, since you can't get to the inside bolt with the torque wrench, do you end up just torquing the outside bolt? The slotted hold down seem to have a rocker effect, so torking one down would produce the same effect on the other as long as you get them close to even. Does that make sense? Am I getting across?

 

[LSMITH]

arar, I seated mine and then put the injector tubes in too. Charles is right about hand tightening the injector lines before torqueing the injectors. Yes, in effect you are torqueing both bolts to 89 inch pounds with the retainer. Are the bolts that fit in the slotted end shoulder bolts? I am thinking they are, but I am not sure.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[Archive]

Arar...

When I change injectors, it is darn near impossible to get at the rear bolt on each injector hold-down with a torque wrench. I never touch them. I remove the front one, remove the hold-down plate, re-install the hold-down plate, torque the front bolt. Is this what you are asking?

 

[fj40charles]

Arar,

I the instructions from Diesel Dynamics specifically stated NOT to touch the inner bolt that holds down the injectors. Loosen the outside bolt ONLY to remove that thing that goes across the top of the injector.


Hope this helps.

Charles

------------------
2000 QC 2500 4x4 LWB ETC 6 Speed Anti-Spin 3. 54 Trailer Tow, DD1's, Practical Solutions boost module
=========================
1969 Toyota FJ40
350 TBI, Turbo 400, ARB lockers front/rear, 4 wheel power disk brakes, 4. 88 ring/pinion, 3 speed transfer case, full roll cage, Warn 8274, MRT 36 bolt beadlocks with Super Swamper Boggers (16x35x15), Saginaw Power steering, custom bumpers/fenders/nerf bars. Conquered Tellico and going to Moab this May. Loves to be pulled behind the Dodge and pass the powerjokes going up hills.

 

[Irontrader]

When I installed my injectors I put new o-rings on the fuel tubes. Do most people replace these o-rings or do most people only pull the fuel tubes out far enough to clear the injector and not bother with the o-rings.

For me it seemed like cheap insurance as it was only about a buck for new o-rings from Cummins.

 

[ARARAR]

No I didn't replace the "O" rings. My instructions said not to pull the tubes all the way out; although I did on the last on, curiosity got the best of me. All seems to be well. I fired it up about 11:00 yesterday after a little apprehention when it took it a while before it finally tured over with "a cloud of smoke and a Hi Oh silver". Smoothed out after about 15sec and them just purrrred(sigh). I washed the engine to better detect any leaks if they appeared. Got about 100 mi. on it now and no leaks and no hesitation. Throttle response in instantaneous. I don't hotrod it but am really tempted because I can just feel the extra power. This,most likely, is my last "MO POWER" goody. I'll be spending my money on cosmetics from now on, you know, something to pretty the old gal up, more gauges, on board compressor, etc.

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98. 5 2500 QC,SB W/ camper shell, whitw w/driftwood lower, 2wd,3. 54, loaded w/o leather,chrome Westin step bars, BD tc/vb and pressureloc,w/trans temp,4" BD exhaust from turbo back, firestone airbags, heavy duty pullrite hitch, Bug sheilds, 4x4 type mud flaps front and back, Amsoil bypass & air filter. Dual pyro-boost gauge,pillar mount, PS boost mod and elbow, Pacbrake w/ BD Autoloc,VA cpc and fuel pressure gauge, Bosch 275's on the way.

 

[Mopar-muscle]

i seat the injector with its holddown and spin down the retaining bolt with my fingers , seat the tube and hand tighten the line nut , torque the outer holdown bolt only , tighten down all the fuel line clamps you loosen and then lastly torque the tube nut , if you do the tube nuts before the hold downs you stand a chance of having the tube higher or lower than it should be and you will be loading the tube with the holddown , i had to undo all the tubes because i couldn't get some of the blue plastic pieces in place and cracked a couple one of the last times .