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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injectors

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission dodge parts

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Sam question... you prob got the Hy 35... . ditch that and get another turbo... even without injectors you need a turbo. .
 
Not necessarily so, on that turbo. I'm running III's and a comp on a stock turbo (for towing), I'm VERY HAPPY!!!!



If you don't already have it, get that 4" exhaust & the bigger injectors!!



If you tow a lot, you'll need that air on the low end, so consider that lag before purchase.



Just my $. 02
 
I am fixing to install a Bully Dog 4" exhaust. So with a stock turbo you would not run anything bigger than 100hp? I do very little towing.
 
It all depends on what you consider acceptable EGTs. When I bought my DD2s, Diesel Dynamics advised that something around 320-330 RWHP was really all one should go on the stock (for me) HX35W-12. I went ahead with the installation of the DD2s, got 347 RWHP and 1450 degF maximum pre-turbo EGTs when towing (stock was 1300 degF). With your smaller HY35W-9, your EGTs will be higher than mine.



Rusty
 
There is no way the hy 35 9 cm housing will work... ... ... ... . that turbo will go 1300 stock. . granted thats with lugging it, but with a AT it will go 1300 stock.

EDIT: with a PDR HX 35 12 cm housing there was no increase in lag, prob even a little quicker... .
 
I've discussed my turbo options with my mechanic friend on numerous occasions, especially when I was doing all my upgrades. He said, install the injectors, AFE, exhaust and Comp, then see how it performs. I did, I tow heavy (12k lbs. ), I've watched my egt's on long climbs in the hot summer. I've seen 1200 degrees for short periods, it will get hot if I let it. Usually, keeping the O/D locked out till 60-65mph does the trick when towing.



Every truck is different, you want horse power, you won't ever tow heavy, get the turbo too. Do your other mod's first, drive it, then order the trubo. A bigger turbo, when lit, will really open your eyes and sit you back in the seat. Another thing to consider, boost pressures. You'll have to set the wastegate to less than 50 psi to protect your head gasket. Hy35 is efficient to around 38-40psi, and I can see pressures approaching 45-47psi. A bigger turbo might be efficient to 55-60 psi and needs to be wastegated. Head studs and ringed head is more than I can afford. I also want longevity out of my engine, more hp won't give me that. The bombing bug is fun, but an expensive and sometimes slippery slope.



Have fun! Thats the point!



My next move, upgrade my COMP to DRAG!!



P. S. With 400 horses, you'll need a full trans upgrade. I could drive right through my old torque converter when I was stock! If you get the chance, drive a truck thats had a fully rebuilt trans. , you'll be amazed.
 
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do the drag comp!!! just had mine done, its awesome.

I dont know about 40psi with an hy, ive got mine set to 32-35. havent heard anything good about them going past that. my max egt 5x5 at 120mph was 1500 empty, any normal speed wont get past 1400. get a bigger turbo befor the sticks, the lil hy will cook with a drag comp and 100hp sticks when pulling unless the comp is off.
 
The only difference between a Drag and a Comp is max fuel when set on 5, from idle to 3250rpm instead of defueling @ 2700 rpm. Number 1 is the same and will be fine if you hook up to something heavy. I test drove a Drag box just recently on my truck, 5x5 is when I noticed a difference. Really fuels!! You can smoke out 3 lanes of freeway from a low boost situation @ 60mph to a rocket by 80 mph!!



I've got the AFE Pro Guard 7 stage 2 air filter and shroud on mine with the MBRP 4" T-304 stainless exhaust, maybe the air filter and improved exhaust flow are helping to keep my temps low, but I don't see the problems that everyone else is seeing with injectors and a fuel box on a stock turbo. Just my opinion!



You get the sticks and a turbo with the drag box... ... . now your talking close to 500 horses!!
 
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KWheaton said:
I've discussed my turbo options with my mechanic friend on numerous occasions, especially when I was doing all my upgrades. He said, install the injectors, AFE, exhaust and Comp, then see how it performs. I did, I tow heavy (12k lbs. ), I've watched my egt's on long climbs in the hot summer. I've seen 1200 degrees for short periods, it will get hot if I let it. Usually, keeping the O/D locked out till 60-65mph does the trick when towing.



Every truck is different, you want horse power, you won't ever tow heavy, get the turbo too. Do your other mod's first, drive it, then order the trubo. A bigger turbo, when lit, will really open your eyes and sit you back in the seat. Another thing to consider, boost pressures. You'll have to set the wastegate to less than 50 psi to protect your head gasket. Hy35 is efficient to around 38-40psi, and I can see pressures approaching 45-47psi. A bigger turbo might be efficient to 55-60 psi and needs to be wastegated. Head studs and ringed head is more than I can afford. I also want longevity out of my engine, more hp won't give me that. The bombing bug is fun, but an expensive and sometimes slippery slope.



Have fun! Thats the point!



My next move, upgrade my COMP to DRAG!!



P. S. With 400 horses, you'll need a full trans upgrade. I could drive right through my old torque converter when I was stock! If you get the chance, drive a truck thats had a fully rebuilt trans. , you'll be amazed.



I do not know where you got your boost numbers for the HY35, but it is way over its head at over 30 lbs. SNOKING
 
Yeah, confusing.....



KWheaton, I was blowing past what my HX35 could handle at what I guessed was less than 350Hp. At an estimated Hp of around 400 I could fairly easily push my EGT's to 1600F plus very quickly. With my wastegate set at 35 psi, I was almost sure that I was over revving the HX35, considering my altitude of around 4000 feet. My drive pressure guage only went to 60 psi and I could pin the needle at will.



I have never had a HY35, but something does not quite seem right to me.



Jim
 
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