injetor pump help

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

starter and grid heater...amps??

How observant are you???

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've posted before and got a couple of replies which I appreciate. I'm having trouble with injection on my 4b. it will run on 3 cylinders but when I tighten down the line on the back cylinder it dies. It also dies when I try to rev it up. Thought it was an injector stuck but I put an old one in and it did the same thing. Just looking for any ideas before I spend alot of money on a new pump or repair. this motor is in my rock crawler and will be towed by my 24v or my N-14 for the bigger group trips. Thanks in advance
 
Thank you for replying. I've been thinking about the return line also, but I have it running into a bucket and seems to be decent amount of fuel returned. I don't think it would be in the hard line that runs inbetween the injectors either, because it's the back cylinder, so the other three injectors wouldn't be able to return past the fourth. right?
 
Check this out too..... I found (as have some others) that if the injector line isn't dead on flush with the surface of the injector tip when you tighten it up, the sucker acts like it's missing a couple cylinders.

In my case it literally was only 1 line/injector connection that was bad, and the idle was TERRIBLE then when I put the truck in "D" the thing all but died... . nasty. .



Loosen and carfully align each line end with each injector tip, then while holding it dead on flush, do it up.



Hope that is all there is too it...



Pastor Bob.
 
thanks bushwacker. I'll give that a look tomorrow. I messed with it last night and I got it running on the 3 that will fire and noticed that even though there was plenty of fuel comming out the line on number 4, it didn't seem to have much pressure. I cracked the other lines open and they would shoot fuel way up. I now really suspect the injection pump. What is there that a guy could fiddle with on the pump, without really tearing into the pump. I wouldn't mind tearing into the pump if I knew what I was doing.
 
Stude,

I must ask, was this ever a running engine? Has anyone pulled the pump off?

The reason I ask is, It kinda sounds like the pump is 180 degrees out of time.





Dave
 
Stude, you were asked this in your post last month, did u make sure you had your fuel lines routed to the correct cylinders? Bill
 
This was a running motor, and supposedly completely rebulit. I've been wondering about the 180 off thing myself. but when I talked to a guy at cummins he said there was only one way that it could go toghether. I doubted him but who am I doubt someone when I'm asking questions. I have another 4bt that was pulled out of a vehicle and never messed with. The line are in the same order. So how do I tell if it's 180 off. What's involed with turning the pump 180. Does the front cover have to come off, or can I take the nut loose through the front oil fill and not drop the gear. I tried to get a manual but the part's guy told me that my engine number's were invalid.
 
It is simple to check for proper timing.

Just pull the number 1 injector and the valve cover. Put a wrench on the crank or use a baring tool and turn the motor over. Using a piece of plastic tubing, like a nozzle from a can of carb cleaner, stick it down the injector hole. Watch the intake valve to see when it is closing. 180 degrees of crank rotation from the valve closing will bring it up on TDC. Use the plastic tube to varify the piston is up.

Note: using the plastic tube will insure a "no heart failure" condition in ones body if you drop the tube into the cylinder. The engine will just "eat" it when you start it.

After making sure it is on TDC, check to see if the timing plunger will lock into the timing hole. You may need to "rock" the engine a little to find the hole. If you cannot find the hole, turn the engine 360 degrees more and see if it will lock in. If it does, the pump grear is 180 degrees out.

I hope this is not the case for you. But it would be good to know. That way, you can rule out timing and look deeper into the pump.



Dave
 
thanks I'll go work on that this afternoon, the only bad thing is I noticed my engine was missing the plunger. I'll go to cummins to see if I can get one. My confidence in this rebuilt engine would be really slipping but it showed great oil pressure while running on it's three cynliders. Hope thi is it. Will I have to pull the front cover like i think I will to correct it if it"s off
 
If you find it is out of time, yes, you will need to pull the front cover. But don't pull it until you prove it is out of time.

One other thing comes to mind. The return line from the pump to the tank. I know this may sound strange, but have you tried to loosten it and then tighten the #4 injector line and see if it runs?

One more thing to try.

I'm running out of ideas, anybody else? Old Smokey? Pastor?
 
Stude, I saw in the conversion forum, you said you were goin to put a pump from another 4BT on this engine. Well any luck? Thought I'd bring this post back to the top, come on guys, any ideas?? Bill
 
I just got in from the garage and I did change the pump. It starts very good after I bled the injectors and will idle ok. But when you rev it up it will die. If you bump it up off of idle it will run for a littl while then die. This is a completely different used pump off another 4bt. Both are VE pumps. I cracked the return at the pump, no change. I have bypassed the transfer pump with a electric pump, no change. I have the return going into a bucket, and I have left the return line screws open at the injectors. I don't have a timing tool but i can just get my finger inbetween the top of the pump and the cylinder head. I have also put a hot wire on the ksb with no change. What am I missing. Thanks for all your help guys.
 
I had it running again. This time I cracked open the small line on the side of the pump. The ksb valve that advances timing when engines cold. There was no fuel coming out of there. Should there be? I hooked a hot wire to it and no fuel either way. Hope this is a clue for you guys. Thanks in advance for your time.
 
I had someone tell me today that the transfer pump is the cause of my problems. I took the metal line off from the pump to filter and attached an electric fuel pump via a hose to it. Still wouldn't rev up. He told me that I can't do that because everything has to be at a specific pressure. Is this true or false. Timing has to be close because it starts pretty good now, with the other injector pump,
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top