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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Install 03-05 Rear end in '95?

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I would like to have a 3:73 ratio, and disc brakes on rear from 3rd gen. SRW 3500.

From what I have read I also have to change master cylinder, powersteering pump and hydraulic booster pump.

Which years can I look for these parts?

Anyone done this conversion?

Any and all advice appreciated
 
As for changing the axle itself, I cant help ya there...



but, as for the brakes, a caliper is a caliper. Unless your rear wheel abs would interfere, which i think it wont, all you would have to do is get some type of flexible hose for the rear calipers, adapt that to the hard line, and its good. changing the master cly/ etc should not be necessary... adapting everything else with the axle may prove interesting though. .



-j
 
But it sounds like it's NOT caliper to caliper, it's drum to disk.



From what I understand, drum brakes take much less fluid than disks. At least, you'll have to play games with the proportioning valve, maybe just go with a good adjustable. Someone more knowledgeable than me will have to answer on swapping the m/c and booster.
 
well, what i meant to say is a piston is a piston. drums and disc's have both. yes a caliper uses a bit more but the caliper also holds a storage of fluid, and the compression of fluid is all that matters. he may have to check the master for fluid loss more than normal, but with the prop. valve in the up position (which has to be done with drum/disc changeout anyways), it should work ok with the standard master.



-j
 
Differences between the Dana and the AAM axles

The drive shafts are different. The 3rd gens use a flange type mount versus the clamp and bolts that the 95 uses. I would look closely at the ABS set up if you have ABS on your 95. Not sure if it was standard but I know it could be ordered as an option. It is standard on the 3rd gen trucks. Emergency brake set up is completely different but could probably be adapted if you wanted to. Can't tell you how they locate the springs under the blocks but I would look into it before I spent too much on it. I think you can get a 3. 73 ratio set up from Ford. They use the Dana rear end also. Give Randy's Ring and Pinion a call. I be they could tell you the best way to do this swap. Don't let anyone tell you it "CAN"T be done". I'm driving a Cummins powered 85 Ram Charger that "couldn't be done" Good luck. Ken Irwin
 
Thanks Kirwin, I have found and purchased an 03 2500 complete with springs, shocks, and wheels. will be shipped this week. I am wondering about changing out the vacuum pump and booster to the newer type(hydraulic?). Will the 97-98 interchange easily with the power steering pump?
 
Well finally I have almost completed the swap. Am wondering what the ideal angle of the driveshaft to pinion shaft is?

I seem to have a steep angle, 10 degrees.

Have decided to try this swap with my vacuum booster.

Having some trouble bleeding, rears ok, no pressure to fronts. Took apart proportioning valve and removed spring. Will try again tomorrow.

Jim
 
Purchased it from a wrecking yard, did a search with a few networks and got only one reply. Paid $2600 Can. $ delivered from eastern CA to Western CA. He claimed 20Kmiles on. Got the springs but could not use them, too long.

Jim
 
I am having trouble with the brakes. Can't get any pressure to the rear. Bled ok, but not enough pressure to activate calipers.

Have checked master cyl. , proportioning valve, RWAL valve, everything is new, still no pressure. I will rig up my pressure gauge tomorrow to measure pressure starting at M/C, then P valve, then RWAL valve, then at calipers.

I seem to have missed something. (this is a 2X4, so no load sensing valve on rear end.

Any ideas anyone.
 
Finally, have my truck back on the road. Changed out the vacuum boost to hydro-boost. Although the brakes now stop the truck, the real test will be when I hook up the 5er.

Was an interesting job, I think it will be worth the cost and time.
 
What was your problem from post #10? Do you have any pictures? Were you able to keep the ABS working? I've been looking into a hydroboost swap. I've noticed a major difference in braking between a 96 vacuum boost and '98 hydroboost, both with rear drums.
 
I hate to say but I installed the calipers on the wrong side which put the bleeder at the bottom instead of the top. This trapped air and couldn't get them bled.

I don't think my RWAL is working, but it was not working before the swap. I think it should still work as I retained the RWAL valve from the 95.

I found a used 99 hydro-boost unit and bought a rebuilt 99 pump. Am not aware of the difference between years.

Jim
 
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