Install lockup.

[tugboat1st]

Does anybody happen to know what is involved in installing an auto with a lockup converter to a '93 12 valve?

 

[cerberusiam]

4x4 or 2x4?



You need the transmission of course, 47RH or make one out of the 46RH.



You can use an RE with a stand alone controller, is just more $$$.



You will need an engine adapter and starter from a 2nd gen, 95 model year works good for a base. Also need the pigtail for the trans control to add the lockup control.



Frame needs to be ground out just a bit to get the starter to fit, redrill holes to relocate the bell crank assembly fo the shifter. The drive shaft will fit but for maximum suspension travek it needs to be shortened.



On a 2x4 you can just redrill the holes for the cross member, eveyrhting needs to move back 1. 25 inches.



On a 4x4 you make a plate to relocate the mounts on the bottom of the trans to t-case adapter. Depending on your suspension the drive shafts may need to be adjusted for correct operation.



Couple of ways to control the lockup, either a simple switch, or, a hobbs switch tapped into the gov pressure to activate at a certain speed.



That should get you started,

 

[KOG]

cerberusiam, sounds like you've got some experience with this. I've got a Frankentruck on hand needing similar help. A '96 which has had a '92 160HP engine transplant. I have this thing because the shop which did the engine swap was incapable of making the transmission shift afterward and I bought it for $800. Just haven't taken the time to even look at it so far although I have bought the FSM for wiring diagrams. I'm guessing this rig might also need a standalone controller, but don't even know where to start looking for one. ??

I'm not quite in your backyard, just the other side of Athens.

 

[cerberusiam]

cerberusiam, sounds like you've got some experience with this. I've got a Frankentruck on hand needing similar help. A '96 which has had a '92 160HP engine transplant. I have this thing because the shop which did the engine swap was incapable of making the transmission shift afterward and I bought it for $800. Just haven't taken the time to even look at it so far although I have bought the FSM for wiring diagrams. I'm guessing this rig might also need a standalone controller, but don't even know where to start looking for one. ??



I'm not quite in your backyard, just the other side of Athens.

Cool! Franken projects are so much fun.



MY 96 was the switch over to the RE series transmissions, at least in the diesels. Not positive about the gassers.



All depends on what they tried to do. Give me a call and we can discuss. I haven't been to Athens yet. Road trip!!!! :-laf





Alan

208 590-2552

 

[tugboat1st]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to keep my eye out for the parts. Do you think changing the converter to the DTT would suffice. I've read some favorable reports on it. My truck is a '74 W100 that I've had since its birth. The repower went very well. It now has a Dana 60 front and 70 rear with 3. 54s. I'm not happy with the top end or pulling grades. Accelerates hard to about 60, then kinda fades. The pump is turned up, 16cm turbo, and 4" Bully Dog exhaust.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, a good TC no matter who makes will make a big difference. You won't loose as much thru the fluid coupling as the stocker which around 70% at lower speeds IIRC. A good TC at 88-89% will make a huge diference but you will probably have to change the turbo and/or housing to get it to spool.



The gen1 did not like those tight TC's unless you fixed the spool and threw fuel at them in the bottom end. A 90% DTT would be great and that approaches 97-98% efficiency when the sprag locks but you have to change turbo's and spool characteristics or you run it against a curb, stand on the go pedal and all it will do it sit there and smoke.