Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Installation Suggestions Needed For FASS System

[CrewCabDiesel]

I just got my FASS System from PDR and before I start the installation, I would like to get some input and suggestions on the installation. Since the topic of fuel systems has been a volatile one please don't start a flaming match here .



1st, where is the best place to mount the unit on a long wheel base 3500 4X4 ?

2nd, Should I change the fuel tank pickup screen with a new one ?

3rd, PDR has suggested that I continue to use the OEM fuel filter/heater assy. since I live in a colder climate, Should I continue to use the OEM filter ?

4th Should I drill out the banjo fittings and what size drill should I use ?

5th, Where should I install my fuel pressure gauge for best results

6th Is there any benefits to hooking up the system to the cooling system to provide heat to the pump assy. ?

7th, In previous posts it was noted that some have installed a relay setup so that the FASS runs directly off the battery. What amp relay/ fuse is used what is the best setup for this.



I will be doing this outside and intend to unbolt the bed to lift it up gaining access to the fuel tank, yes I know this might be unnecessary step, but I want to make sure nothing is plugged up. And wanted any installation suggestions from someone who has already been there and done that. Also I will be doing this in the next weekend where the weather allows and if anyone would like to come by and see whats all involved, please PM me for time and directions.

 

[RACE427]

OEM filter

I guess from your post that you will need to run 3 fuel filters? Two from the FASS and the original one on the engine. I would think that your fuel should be squeaky clean when it finally enters the VP-44. Was told that the FASS came with detailed instructions how to install it. If I was not so far away I would come by and give you a hand! LOL Always fun to work on a diesel.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

The instructions from FASS are very detailed, but I might be doing things a little differently, such as retaining the OEM filter system because of the fuel heater. I am also concerned with the electrical power load from the FASS system on the OEM lift pump circuit. There is a lot of guys that have already installed a FASS system and I would like to hear about any way to do it better, save time, and avoid mistakes.

Kyle

 

[Cliffman]

I mounted the FASS filter assembly exactly where the instructions indicated. It worked perfect. I also kept my OEM filter in place. Prior to the FASS system I had the Enterprise helper pump. It came with a relay so I just use that wiring. Worked very well. Took us about 2 hours at the most.

 

[PRout]

Lifting the bed will enable you to do a nice clean install. Its hard to get up to the fittings from the bottom, so thats a big plus.



Since you will be able to get to the top of the tank, it would be the perfect time to pull the top & make sure the intake screen is clear.



If you can get a 90 degree fitting for the fuel return connection at the pump, that will be an improvement.



I had a hard start condition after my first install, and it may have been air getting in a fitting, but when I finally re-connected the OEM filter canister the problem went away.



I used a tapped banjo bolt from Geno's Garage to replace the OEM fitting at the VP44, and connected the gauge into there and that goes to an isolator. Ended up cutting the 15lb spring down to 13 psi, and at full throttle, it wont pull below 12, so there is plenty of flow for my HP range which is approx 325-350HP. If you run a fueling box, you will probably need a line kit from the filter to the VP, but I like this setup. Nice to have a filter close to the VP, and still have the heater, which might not help much if the FASS filters are waxed up, but hey, feels good. Actually, I like having the reservoir of fuel close to the VP to act as a buffer, instead of a 3/8 line all the way back to the pump.



Also, some people have posted that the kit was a couple feet short of hose, so you might want to get some just to have on hand.



When tapping the return line into the vent tube, its important to cut out the same length of tube as the T assy adds, so when you re-install the vent tube, it has the same tension as before, or you may get a leak at the top of the tank from that fitting being cocked at an angle. You want no spring load at the vent tube connection on top of the tank. (Having the bed off is going to help alot here).



Had to use a filter wrench to get the fuel filter on tight enough to not seep.



Oh yea, also used plenty of silicone spray in the hose ends before sliding them on the barbs, because they can be buggers to get on all the way! Used hose clamps even though they supposedly are not necessary.



You can use the electrical extension harness to get yourself in business, then later add a relay assy. I think most people are using standard Bosch or Radio Shack 20 amp relays, and firing them with the hot that normally runs the pump. Then they are running the switched hot from the batt through the relay to power the pump. The supplied harness comes w/ a fuse, but you might put a slightly larger fuse closer to the batt when you use a relay.



Hope that helped. Sorry for being redundant from what has already been posted above, just got to ramblin'. Its worth the install. Nice unit.

 

[CStewart]

I put a FASS system on my 98 QC long bed about a month ago. The only problems I had was getting the old quick connect fitting off the top of the fuel tank which shouldn't be a problem if your pullin the bed, and I beefed up the mounting bracket that came with the kit. I have mine run through the factory filter which is where I mounted my fuel pressure transducer. I got a couple of extra fittings from DPP and ran push-lok hose from the factory filter to the injection pump. If you get some extra fittings and a tee fitting you could put your transducer in between your factory filter and the injection pump, which in IMHO is the best place. One important thing is to NOT use hose clamps on push lok fittings, PARKER makes a major point of this in there catalogs that using hose clamps on this type of fitting will cause it to fail.



Chris

 

[jebia]

Cstewert,



I ended using hose clamps on all my puch on fitting connectins, since I had a hard time pushing the blue hose on to the barbed fittings (I oiled both the hose and the fitting).



How do the connections fail? do the hose clamps putt to much pressure against the hose/barb connection and cut the hose? Can you provide a link to the parker info (warning about the use of hose clamps)?



So far I've had good luck with my Fass, but now I'm worried about my use of hose clamps.



thanks,



Jon

 

[Uncle Jack]

My kit from FASS (Brad Ekstam) came with a 2-piece fitting to replace the banjo bolt at the injector pump. I ordered two mor of these to fit the stock filter assembly. One piece is the adapter to screw into the port in place of the banjo bolt. The second is a 90 degree bend with push-on connector for the 3/8 inch hose.



I presently have my pressure gauge connected directly to the FASS unit. There's an allen plug in a port near the output to connect it. I may move it back to the stock filter later. Shows a constant 18 pounds of pressure no matter what connected to the FASS, but I know it will be a bit lower closer to the pump.



Took me a long time to install on my own. No real problems though. I connected it directly to the electrical plug for the stock pump and haven't had any problems so far. Also, I was short about 2 feet of hose, so you may want to measure carefully. Took a while to bleed the air out after the install and get the truck started - a lot of space to fill. I'm very happy with the system though.



The push on connections were not difficult where you could lay a piece on the ground and push straight down. But they were a b**** trying to get all the way on with the pump assembly bolted in place, even though I used plenty of oil. I didn't think of the WD-40... maybe it would have worked better. I didn't use clamps but can't imagine why they would hurt. I don't think they're coming off, either way. I gave 'em a tug and I think you'd have to cut the hose to remove them. 18 pounds is not a lot of pressure either.



The latest issue of TDR, #43, page 157, has a photo for the Product Showcase. If I'm not badly mistaken, it looks like they used clamps on the push-ons!



Best of luck to you! I think you'll find it worth the effort.



Jack

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

If anyone is interested in coming over to check out the installation of a FASS system PM me for directions. I am going to do the install on this Saturday morning around 10 am, 3/27 weather permitting. I have already some prep work like install the bracket and some of the fittings.

Kyle

 

[RichardButler]

with the fass system when should you use the drain on the seperator?

 

[Nickaru]

I'm in the middle of installing my FASS. I ordered mine from Doug at Smokin Diesel and he modified the wiring harness for a relay setup at no extra charge. He's a great guy to deal with! He told me that it's a concern about how many amps the FASS pump draws compared to the stock lift pump and that Brad at Diesel Performance will be using relays in the future if he hasn't already started doing so. Just my 2 cents.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Well the install is done and here are the results so far.

The idle is much smoother and unloaded reving is like a gasser.

I installed the westech gauge at the injection pump input connection from the OEM filter/heater. I used my banjo bolt from Geno's to make the connection then went to a plastic line to the electric sending unit which I have wire tied down. This is temporary setup which I am replacing the junk Westech with an Autometer gauge setup. With the OEM filter still in use I have 12psi of fuel pressure at idle and 11psi highway speed. the lowest I pulled it down to was 9psi WOT with the edge comp set at 5. I will have a better idea of mileage Monday when I go to Chicago.

Things that I would suggest , install the output fitting and hose on the FASS BEFORE install. Also I did install a power relay so that the FASS gets power directly from the battery. Extra bonus of this is that you can run the pump manually by jumping two contacts on the relay to bleed out the air without messing around with the ignition switch.

Over all I am happy with the FASS setup and the installation directions.

 

[Nickaru]

FASS just installed also

I also completed my FASS installation this weekend. The hardest part was trying to get the old line off the tank and depressing those two tabs and pulling at the same time with only one hand available up there. After completion, when I started the truck, I also noticed the engine quieter, not as clacky, more muffled. Quicker revving too. The quality of the kit is A-1. I used the supplied fitting for my Pricol fuel pressure gauge and stays right at 15 at idle. I haven't completed my test drive yet. I was going to use this system with my stock filter setup, but when I saw that the new hose diameter was larger then the line at the stock filter, I decided to eliminate it and go directly to the VP44.