Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I installed an Edge Comp yesterday as my first engine modification. The install took about 3. 75 hours mostly as a result of me taking everything slow so I did not make any mistakes. I have tried levels 1x1, 1x2, 1x3 and 2x3 only so far.
The instructions were very clear and I followed them exactly. However, when it came to piercing the pump wire, the picture accompanying the text was blurry and some of the sentences in the piercing the pump instructions were poorly worded. So I may have had an issue at this step. See below.
Before even driving the truck, the first thing I noticed was that my radio/CD player (Dodge stock) did not work, or more exactly my speakers did not work. When I would push the power button on the radio, I would hear a clicking coming from under the dash. I traced the clicking noise to a box (relay?) under the dash approximately behind the radio. If it helps, when I reconnected the negative terminals on both batteries, I heard (but did not see) a spark. I don't know if this caused the problem, but I wanted to throw it out for comment.
I finally started the truck and took it for a 5 mile drive. I started out on 1x1 and slowly moved up to 2x3 with no problems. I felt like I had more power and the engine was more responsive but I did not push the engine hard as I am waiting for a pusher pump to replace the existing lift pump. Should be here soon. As with the Edge Comp, I purchased this from Floor It (John Isaacs).
After the first drive, I let the truck sit a couple of minutes and then drove to the barn (about 3 miles away) where the truck sat for a couple of hours. On the return trip, about 300 feet from my house, I turned the corner and was still close to idle when the "Check Gages" light came on for about 2 seconds along with 2 dings or chimes. I drove the truck to the house, shut the engine off and check for diagnostic codes. All I received was a P1693. A helpful code if there ever was one.
As an aside, I have just over 114,000 miles on the truck. The lift pump was replaced under warranty at 93,000 miles (see my sig for the exact mileage). I can still hear the lift pump when I turn the starter to "on".
As I said earlier, the install went fairly smooth. Just the usual (for me) frustrations such as I can't get to the grommet in the firewall and once I do, I can't push the first plug through the hole I cut. Just the usual...
My concerns are three-fold.
1) I pierced the wrong pump wire or did not pierce it properly. The wire I pierced was the top wire in the top bundle of two wires. Again the instructions were a bit unclear. I had to study the instructions for quite a while before I even had a clear idea as to what wire needed to be pierced. Once I thought I had the correct wire, I made sure the wire was in the trough of the connector. Once I was able to do that, I crimped the connector with a pair of pliers and received a very satisfying click of a solid connection.
2)Even on the lowest settings, my lift pump is not up to the minimal additional power. Should I drive the truck until I can get the pusher pump installed?
3) What did I do to my radio? Is it as simple as replacing that "relay" that is clicking to recover my secondary noise makers, with the engine being the first noise maker?
Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Lyndon
P. S. I was just looking at a new thread from n4hwl, "What is the best way to check for a boost leak?". Could not having screwed in the boost elbow cause a code? When I remove the original boost elbow, it was three threads out from being completely screwed in. I left about 5 - 6 threads showing on the new boost elbow. Thoughts?
The instructions were very clear and I followed them exactly. However, when it came to piercing the pump wire, the picture accompanying the text was blurry and some of the sentences in the piercing the pump instructions were poorly worded. So I may have had an issue at this step. See below.
Before even driving the truck, the first thing I noticed was that my radio/CD player (Dodge stock) did not work, or more exactly my speakers did not work. When I would push the power button on the radio, I would hear a clicking coming from under the dash. I traced the clicking noise to a box (relay?) under the dash approximately behind the radio. If it helps, when I reconnected the negative terminals on both batteries, I heard (but did not see) a spark. I don't know if this caused the problem, but I wanted to throw it out for comment.
I finally started the truck and took it for a 5 mile drive. I started out on 1x1 and slowly moved up to 2x3 with no problems. I felt like I had more power and the engine was more responsive but I did not push the engine hard as I am waiting for a pusher pump to replace the existing lift pump. Should be here soon. As with the Edge Comp, I purchased this from Floor It (John Isaacs).
After the first drive, I let the truck sit a couple of minutes and then drove to the barn (about 3 miles away) where the truck sat for a couple of hours. On the return trip, about 300 feet from my house, I turned the corner and was still close to idle when the "Check Gages" light came on for about 2 seconds along with 2 dings or chimes. I drove the truck to the house, shut the engine off and check for diagnostic codes. All I received was a P1693. A helpful code if there ever was one.
As an aside, I have just over 114,000 miles on the truck. The lift pump was replaced under warranty at 93,000 miles (see my sig for the exact mileage). I can still hear the lift pump when I turn the starter to "on".
As I said earlier, the install went fairly smooth. Just the usual (for me) frustrations such as I can't get to the grommet in the firewall and once I do, I can't push the first plug through the hole I cut. Just the usual...
My concerns are three-fold.
1) I pierced the wrong pump wire or did not pierce it properly. The wire I pierced was the top wire in the top bundle of two wires. Again the instructions were a bit unclear. I had to study the instructions for quite a while before I even had a clear idea as to what wire needed to be pierced. Once I thought I had the correct wire, I made sure the wire was in the trough of the connector. Once I was able to do that, I crimped the connector with a pair of pliers and received a very satisfying click of a solid connection.
2)Even on the lowest settings, my lift pump is not up to the minimal additional power. Should I drive the truck until I can get the pusher pump installed?
3) What did I do to my radio? Is it as simple as replacing that "relay" that is clicking to recover my secondary noise makers, with the engine being the first noise maker?
Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Lyndon
P. S. I was just looking at a new thread from n4hwl, "What is the best way to check for a boost leak?". Could not having screwed in the boost elbow cause a code? When I remove the original boost elbow, it was three threads out from being completely screwed in. I left about 5 - 6 threads showing on the new boost elbow. Thoughts?
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