Archived Installed Edge Comp, now truck dead after a couple miles

[BroncoMarc]

I installed an edge comp today and took the truck out for a test run. Drove for a couple miles slow on the street, then I set it to level 5 and did a full throttle run up an on-ramp. At the stop of the ramp the truck abruptly shut off and wouldn't restart. Checked all the connections and everything seemed ok, so I called a buddy and towed it home on a strap.



I called edge and they said it was probably a fuel system issue. I probably need to bleed the fuel lines.



Do you guys agree? How do I bleed the lines?



Just don't tell me the injector pump died!



The lift pump was replaced last year. I haven't checked the pressure lately though because my gauge died. . I guess it couldn't hand the vibration of me leaving it under the hood!

 

[Bob Wagner]

99. 9% says the pump took a dump



sorry but the early pumps had major failure rate



save some cash if it is at cummins stuff should save a few bucks





I hope this helps, get a mechanical pressure test gauge

 

[BroncoMarc]

I just got a new gauge and tested the lift pump, and it got up to 15psi when I bumped the starter, then it dropped to 0 the instant the pump stopped.



I know the lift pump has been replaced at least twice (once by me). . I don't know how long it was run with a bad one.



I searched the forums and found this quote:

Originally posted by snowracer69

VP44 is the injection pump on 2nd gen 24 valve CTD's. Electronically controlled and it's what the "pump wire" tap is hooked on to from the Comp and other fueling boxes to get more power. Some are strong as bulls, and seems others go out soon as they're tapped.

That kind of scares me. . Mine lasted less than 2 miles before it died. .





Next question is. . What test can I run to determine that the VP44 is toast?

 

[kaptn]

I saw this happen at the drag strip on a friends truck. He towed it home and it turned out to be a vapor lock. Truck is fine now. I am crossing my fingers it is that simple.

 

[Loren]

Marc,



I don’t see how the problem could be related to fuel system air bleeding, because you didn’t open any fuel lines that might introduce air into the system. (Did you?) In any event, it’s certainly worth a try before replacing the injection pump.



Here’s how:



1. Start by bleeding the line to the injection pump. Loosen, but do not remove, the banjo bolt (test port fitting) at the pump. This is the banjo bolt with the capped valve on it. (The service manual says to do it this way, but I don’t understand why you couldn’t just open the test valve. )



2. Run the lift pump by “bumping” the starter. Check for fuel leaking past the loose banjo bolt. Continue to run the lift pump until you get fuel leaking. Tighten the banjo bolt to 18 ft-lbs.



3. Attempt to start the engine. It may run rough for a while if it starts at all. This is okay. DO NOT CRANK THE STARTER FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS AT A TIME. Allow two minutes cooling between cranking intervals.



4. If the engine doesn’t start, loosen the fuel line fittings at the injectors (the service manual says to loosen cylinders #3, 4, and 5). Crank and start the engine (as above) until the engine runs smoothly. Tighten the fittings to 28 ft-lbs. )



If this doesn’t do it for you, you may have to call Edge again. Good luck.



Loren

 

[Shovelhead]

Here's some good reading.

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/Bosch-VP44.htm



I'd have to say it sounds like a classic case of "Injection Pump died after piercing pump wire". :{



Quote from the article:

The reason any aftermarket device that hooks up to the solenoid wire is blamed for the failure is that the failure 99 times out of 100 (honest numbers here) the pump fails within 20 minutes of running with power enhancement.

 

[kaptn]

I cant remember the explanation of the vaporlock but I was told it has to do with the increased boost pressures. Maybe someone can explain it.

 

[CFAR]

Sounds like a classic Inj pump failure. Some of the early Inj Pumps had internal clearancing issues, that caused failures when the wire is pierced.

 

[kaptn]

This is a possible explanation of a problem with the fuel system(air)

Basically when you let off the accelerator that fast and the compression chamber is under excess compression it forces the fuel backwards, causing a vapor lock.

Drove for a couple miles slow on the street, then I set it to level 5 and did a full throttle run up an on-ramp. At the stop of the ramp the truck abruptly shut off and wouldn't restart.

 

[BroncoMarc]

Shouldn't vapor lock go away once it cools down? There's no way I see for air to get into the system. Also, I was still on the throttle when it died.



I think I just ran my final test and I'm convinced it's the vp44. I took off 2 of the fuel line fittings that hold the fuel line into the head and I cranked on the starter. I didn't get a bit of fuel coming out either fuel line.



I also disconnected the batteries for awhile to try to clear anything out that could be causing problems and I got the same results.



Plus everything I've read about the early vp44 just convinces me more. Mine was built Jan '98.



I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[kaptn]

Now it sounds like a injection pump. Bummer I guess all of us that play on the darkside will have the same experience your having eventually.

 

[BroncoMarc]

I've got the new pump and am trying to put it in. The shop book clearly states in big bold flashing letters not to use the mounting nuts to draw the pump to the mounting surface. I can't get the pump in far enough to be flush. I'm pretty sure it's the O ring holding it back. I've got the O ring slatherd down with oil (without getting any on the pump shaft. ) Any tips on getting it on there?





Also, I found out the lower part of the bracket that supports the rear of the pump is broken in half. How important is that? Will the 4 mouting nuts hold it on there?





I bought my pump from cumminsstuff.com and got a heck of a deal! $850 + $100 core. But it didn't come with the overflow valve. The shop book says not to reuse the valve on a new pump, so I went to the local Cummins dealer and bought one. The thing was 85 bucks! For a little thing that looks like a banjo bolt. Whew!



- Marc

 

[BroncoMarc]

IT RUNS ! ! ! !



My friend (who is a real mechanic) came by today and got it in for me. . I was just a little off on the keyway.



I bled the supply line at the ignition pump, then cranked it for about 90 seconds (30 at a time). . It wouldn't start so I started bleeding the lines going in to the head and it finally fired. It didn't make the big cloud of white smoke like it did when I put my injectors in, but it sounds like it's running good. I haven't taken it down the road yet because I'm parked in (since it's been sitting for over a week).



I've got a check engine light on. . I'll have to run by Autozone tomorrow and have them look it up and maybe clear it. I don't think there's a way to check codes on a 98. 5 except thru a tester on the data port. I'm thinking I set the code that the edge comp manual warns you about if you connect the batteries before everything is hooked up.



I didn't tap the pump wire yet. I think I'll run it like this for a week to make sure it's running well, then tap it and cross my fingers.

 

[Bob Wagner]

marc, glad to hear its back up and running