Installed Practical Solutions HD U-Bolt/Anchor Kit

[BigDaddy]

Installed Practical Solutions kit this weekend without a glitch #ad


You really do not get the idea of just how cheesy the stock hardware is until you remove it and compare it to the PS HD kit.

PS(LH) vs Stock(RH)
#ad


Although the instructions recommended using an impact gun, I used only 1/2 inch drive tooling. I wanted to try it without the impact wrench and I had no problems. I did not use WD40 or any other type of penetrating lube either. Considering my truck is only 18 months young, this may be the norm for newer trucks. I won't attempt this on an older truck.

The HD U-Bolts supplied in the kit are 3/4 inch dia. , SAE4140 steel and very strong at a rating of 150,000 psi. #ad


PS Kit #ad


Gordon, thanks for bringing your “real world” experience to us Dodge Cummins owners with this product. #ad



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<font color=forestgreen>2000</font> DODGE <font color=forestgreen>RAM</font>, <font color=forestgreen>2500 HD</font>, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab, <font color=forestgreen>Forest Green</font>, Agate interior, Cummins ISB, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 LS, ABS, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin; DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under Rail Bedliner, VentVisors, Splash Guards, Cold Weather Cover, & Mats.
<font color=forestgreen>After-market</font>: JRE 4" Exhaust, Van Aaken, Practical Solutions Diesel Products:High Idler, Heavy Duty Idler Pulley, Intake Heater System Saver & HD U-Bolt/Anchor Plate Kit, Gatorback Belt, Painless Wiring, K40, Viper w/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Continental BedRails, Delo 400, HOWES, Liquid Glass.

BigDaddy's Ram #ad
New England RamRiggers

<font color=36648B>2001 PT Cruiser Limited Edition</font>

[This message has been edited by BigDaddy (edited 04-30-2001). ]

 

[MCrossley]

If I can scrounge up the money I am supposed to get a set of those to show off at May Madness for Gordon, great guy worked with me on some adjustments for the high idler and now for the u-bolts.

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TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed. Line-X bed-liner. DTT's TC & VB, Pac Brake, Power Edge, Edge EZ, Grover Air Horns

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.

http://www.ramtaz.com

Add on's to come: any other Ram Runner required modifications...

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Looks nice BidDaddy. Last fall when I dropped my back end 1" (removed the 1" spacers on my 2wd) I went up 1 size. Stock is 1/2" as I recall so I went to either 9/16" or 5/8" when I had a new set made (only $4 apiece). Gives you peace of mind when something sturdier is holding your rearend together.

Vaughn

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'01 2500 QC Shortbed 2wd, 6-speed, 3. 54LSD, Cab & Fog lamps, Camper & Tow Pkg.
BOMBed: DD2 Injectors, PS Boost module, Amsoil air filter, straightpiped exh. , Aeroquip 3/8" fuel line w/tank mounted lift pump, AutoMeter Sport Comp gauges, Line-X'd, Amber turn signal conversion.

 

[pcorssmit]

Looks like a nice, beefy kit, just wondering, what prompted you to do this?

Pete

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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits

 

[NVR FNSH]

Like Pete said, Why? Is there a mass failure of u-bolts that I'm unaware of?

Brian

 

[BigDaddy]

Vaughn, thank you. It is a nice installation.

Pcorssmit,
Strength and Longevity. We all know there is a lot of power going to the rear wheels, but have you ever seen this on a DYNO. It really makes you think about what is holding things together back there.

Joe

 

[NVR FNSH]

I just read the description on PS webpage & am baffled at how the u-bolts help prevent axle wrap. Elimination of the blocks would be a good thing, but changing out the ubolts and bracket just don't make sense to me.

Brian

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I don't see how changing out the u-bolts to larger ones could reduce axle wrap either, JMHO. I've beat on my truck hard and haven't had any u-bolt problems with 70,000 miles on it.



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax3, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, SS ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

 

[Ram4Sam]

Vaughn, I have been pondering the removal of the spacer block myself as I don't really like the raised up rear look on my truck. Is it as simple as it looks or am I missing something. Also, how about the specs on the Ubolts you had made as far as length, diameter, and length of the threaded part.
Were there any side affects you have noticed since you removed them?

Thanks, Sam

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2001. 5 2500 QC HO 6sp LB 3. 54LS everything except leather, white/agate 2wd,Isspro guauges on the A,ME kit,DD Tru torque module,K&N air filter,Geno's smoothie,chrome tip,RBW hitch

Sam Hill-BPOE #583


Fordaholic-clean and Mopar'd since 10/05/00

 

[David_VT]

I like Gordon's stuff also, but don't see how this can possibly address wrap issues.

Maybe it can address 'unwrap' issues by preventing a gross failure??

Looks Gnarly but..... ???

MC? what high idle adjustments?? The lack of adjustment is what keeps me from buying his gadget... tell us more... !!

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Sam, when I went to do mine I tried to buy the right size. When running around someone said "Well go over to Biggg Jim's truck shop, they'll make you a set. " (It's really spelled Biggg, LOL). I would call around, some sort of truck or farm equipment service vendor should be able to do it.

Anyway, when I removed the spacers I also removed my overload springs. Specs are:

Stock: 11. 5" long by 3" wide (measured inside)
New: 8. 5" long by 3" wide

On the 2wd trucks taking out the spacers and overloads reduces the length by 3". I would specify 5/8" stock and drill your plate holes if they are not big enough. I'm pretty sure I got 9/16" and stock is 1/2".

Swapping out was fairly easy. Just park on a level spot and block the front & rear wheels good, leave park brake off. Unbolt the U-bolts on one side, put a jack under the springs right at the axle so you can jack it up and pull out the spacer. Then let it down, while making sure the alignment point on the axle pad aligns with the hole in the springs. I had a little trouble with this and had to use some sticks for leverage to force the alignment correctly as I let down the jack. The alignment point always came down on the spring and wouldn't seat right. Then install your new U-bolts and tighten them down evenly. Then repeat on the other side. Make sure the U-bolts seat in the notches on the top pad too, I had one jump out on me.

Someone posted quite some time ago about doing something similar on a 4x4. He had 2. 5" blocks made up (or cut down the stock 4" ones) to drop the rear 2. 5"

I found my truck rode quite a bit better after removing my spacers and overloads.

Have fun.

Vaughn

EDIT I went back and found the thread I started after removing my spacers: Removed Overloads--Original Post Jul 2000 Notice member bennetj was the one who lowered the back of his truck. He had pictures but are no longer available. You 4x4 people could email him for info. I haven't seen him post in ages though.

[This message has been edited by Vaughn MacKenzie (edited 05-02-2001). ]

 

[pcorssmit]

One trick that works well if you are having side to side alignment problems when trying to get the centering pin to go into the axle or block is to put a slight load on the spring (by lowering the truck with the jack), and give the spring a tap with a BFH or sledge. This usually pops it right into place.

Pete

 

[Mad Max]

GR8 POST, I'VE BEEN THINKING ABOUT THIS PRODUCT FOR A WHILE NOW.

Mad Max