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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Installing 215HP injectors in 160HP now?

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I am going to buy 215HP injectors for a member here. I will get them checked and balanced at my local injection shop. Can I just slap them in now before any other mods and will it give me any gains?



Also on my fords I got a copper washer stuck inside the head and it took a long to time to get out, in general do these cummins have this same issue or does the washer usually come out attached to the injector?
 
215's should be small enough for the 160 to handle them with out a plate and you should see a power gain.



Don't know about washers sticking I think they will come right out form what I read on changing them out. Try doing a search on removing injectors and see what you come up with.
 
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You could prolly slide the plate forward a little, too. And do the washer swap on the AFC. In fact, you could probably regrind your plate to a different profile if you were so inclined. It's all free horsepower.
 
I've pulled about 30 injectors and only had a washer stay behind once. I was able to fish it out easily but I can't remember how... . Just check each one you pull to see if the washer stayed on.



Jason
 
When I called the inj shop today, they told me they have bad luck balancing used injectors. They claim the nozzle will more than likely be scored and makes the reading be skewed. This sounds like hog wash to me. Is it even worth taking a set of 125k mile injectors and having them balanced anyways?



A seller on ebay claims he uses old used springs and then shims them accordingly to balance the set. He stated that the used springs have already worn to their limit and will no longer vary in tension. It does kind of make sense, which is why I was thinking of getting them balanced.
 
I'm the type of person that would only buy uaed injectors off of E-Bay knowing they are nothing but cores, I seen a set on NW Bombers for sale a while back, that I would trust, and he only wanted $125. 00 for the set, I would look around a bit and see what you can come up with.
 
I actually bought them from a member here. I highly doubt someone would just deliberatly sell junk injectors. Mine are 160HP units and have 252k on them, so I am sure these 215's with 125k on them will be some kind of improvment or at least give room for more mods.
 
You are only going w/ 215 HP Inj's but you may or may not get a stumble, rough spot at 1200 rpm that is noticeable and irritating but still drivable. A set of 181 or 191 delivery valves should help clean up this stumble. Since you are going to have the injector lines off anyway, it may be the time to do the DV's at the same time.



Wait for other TDR members opinions on this. Or TST, Piers Diesel or any reputable diesel performance shop can advise.
 
Alright, I didn't know he was a member, most members will not try to screw a person over, on the other hand a lot of E-Bayers will, been there, do that, won't happen again. You will see an improvement form them, I was at 275rwhp with just 215's a #5 fuel plate and 15. 5*timing, on a 175 pump, made for a great towing set up, didn't have to worrie about EGT's that much, you will also need a bost elbow to bring the boost up to 30*, after that you are pushing hot air, good luck with your set up, should work very nice.
 
Also make sure the injector wells are clean as new. If they are rusty, get a wire brush and get them clean. I plug the injector hole w/ a piece of paper towel and did not have any problems getting it out. Get all of the carbon out of the wells. I cleaned them w/ WD-40, paper towel & a screwdriver. When you install the injector, you don't want carbon getting under the sealing washers.



I had a reputable? diesel shop install 215 HP injectors in my truck a few years becuase I was gun-shy about doing it myself. The bozo tech didn't clean the injector wells and dropped the new injectors in on top carbon deposits which in turn got under the sealing washers. Some of the injectors never seated correctly due to . 020 of carbon under ¼-½ of the sealing washer. I saw this when I installed DD III's a few years later. No wonder it never idled smooth.



That still burn my ***. #@$%!
 
Mine are 160HP units and have 252k on them, so I am sure these 215's with 125k on them will be some kind of improvment or at least give room for more mods.

Hopefully the price was right, at 125k they're definitely past their prime. A friend who does diesel injection says 150k is a good time to start thinking about rebuilding. By the time you buy used injectors then have them tested & balanced you might as well buy new ones (new ones are around $450-$500 as I recall). I would just spend the $$ to have them pop-checked, doesn't cost much, then you'll know if any of them are really out of whack before you go to the trouble of installing them.
 
I pop test these inj all the time and I have only had a few that would not pop they would squirt put them in carb cleaner and they most of the time will then pop on the 215 inj I set them at 4000 psi which makes them atomize much better I just built a set of 370 inj for a cust because his nozzles were worn out they are set at 4410 psi or 300 bar send them to me and I will pop test them and adjust them to the pressure you want just pay the shipping and for the shims.

Jim
 
I pop test these inj all the time and I have only had a few that would not pop they would squirt put them in carb cleaner and they most of the time will then pop on the 215 inj I set them at 4000 psi which makes them atomize much better I just built a set of 370 inj for a cust because his nozzles were worn out they are set at 4410 psi or 300 bar send them to me and I will pop test them and adjust them to the pressure you want just pay the shipping and for the shims.

Jim



When I had my ford injectors shimmed, they claimed I would have to advance my timing, will I have to do this if I get these shimmed?
 
What engine are these going into if its a 160 the timing is at 14 stock and the

pop on them is 245 bar which = 3600 psi no timing change required.
 
The Right Screwdriver

If you get a copper washer left behind, push a flat screwdriver that starts out slightly smaller than the hole through the washer and it will stick in the washer and you can remove it.
 
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