Installing a set of the Power Pedals in my '07, 5.9 6 speed stick.

[Motorhead]

I bought my truck new in August of 2007. Had to put a South Bend clutch in after adding HP with the Smarty Jr. Having had a few knee surgeries on my Left knee and a replacement on the right knee. I have been wondering what I could do to make the South Bend clutch a little easier to operate. I have the HD organic clutch. I had the opportunity to work on a 2007, 5.9 6 speed Laramie equipped truck and it had the power pedals in it. I noticed that with the power pedals extended out, the clutch was much easier to operate because it added leverage to the pedal plus, even though I am long legged, driving around town, I had to have the seat more forward to fully disengage the clutch. Cruising down the freeway, I move the seat back some. I found a complete stick shift power pedal assembly and currently have it apart to clean and re-lube everything. The repair manual says you have to pull the whole assembly including the cast aluminum frame the pedal assembly is mounted to and pull the steering column. The parts fiche I have says the casting it the same for both standard and the power pedals. I am going to see if I can just change out the pedals in-frame and install the motor onto the existing aluminum casting installed in my truck. Will cover more tomorrow as that's when I plan to install them. By the way, it seems that most trucks have the wiring already installed to attach to the pedal motor and the switch. it is tucked up under the dash above the parking brake.

 

[Regcabguy]

The pedals were maybe a hundred bucks when I ordered my truck.
Tight,tight under there.

 

[Motorhead]

Ran into an issue today. I have a Jordan brake controller that hooks to the brake pedal. GREAT braking with it but I can't hook it to the movable brake pedal. So I have to build a bracket to hook to the top half of the brake pedal arm and hook the Jordan cable to it. he throttle pedal is different so I have to call the salvage yard I bought it from and see if they have the throttle pedal.
ONA thing I DID find out is that you CAN pull the non power pedals out without pulling the whole casting and steering column out. It is very tight and you have to remove the plastic bushings out first so you have some wiggle room to push the brake pedal pivot pin towards the center of the truck.

 

[Motorhead]

Dave, I don't know where the place to PM you is now. Maybe because I am not a dues payer anymore is the reason. Can you text me, if you have a smart phone, your phone number? Thanks Chris 805-550-3138

 

[Motorhead]

I continued setting up the pedal assembly to install in my truck. I cleaned all of the sliders, the power screws that move the pedals back and forth and lubed the drive cables that are like speedometer cables. I took the motor apart to check it and it had very little use. I cleaned the commutator and lightly oiled the bronze oilite bushings. I ran into a problem with the throttle mounting. It was different than my 2007 throttle. I figured they had sent me an assembly for an '05-'06 because the throttle on those years mounts on the side of the throttle. I called All Dodge Truck, the salvage yard that I bought it from and Trevor sent me out the throttle pedal slider mounting for the '07-'08 so I just mount my throttle pedal from my stationary pedals to the power pedals. These guys at ALL Dodge Truck in Rancho Cordova, Ca (https://www.alldodgetruck.com/ ) in the Sacramento, Calif. area were the only place that knew what I needed to install the full power pedal assembly. They included the switch too. They ship the parts out in the afternoon and they were on my front porch the next morning! They have a large selection of used Dodge truck parts and the guys know their parts too.
So today I worked on mounting a 3/4" x 3/16" thick piece of bar stock to the upper part of the pedal assembly that doesn't slide. This piece will hold my cable mount holder for my JORDAN trailer brake. I also learned about the stupid brake light switch that says "Do Not RE-Use. These switches are a one time self adjust and I found that my brake lights stayed on after test fitting the power brake pedal. My curiosity led me to carefully disassemble the switch and all you have to do id temporarily spread a metal clip inside the switch and the plunger springs out just like new! You put the switch back together and re-install it. It self adjusts again and works just like it did before.
I'll post some pictures. The pedals will be able to be changed without removing the whole cast aluminum pedal mounting and the steering column. Saves LOTS of time!

 

[Motorhead]

NEED HELP. I decided today to TEST the circuit for the power pedals by plugging the switch into the 6 pin plug and the motor into its 2 pin plug. I also grounded the pedal motor bracket although I don't think it needs to be grounded. WELL, It doesn't work. I am NOT missing any fuses, I took the switch apart and cleaned it, The MOTOR, I took apart earlier and cleaned and re-oiled the bushings and tested it. I pulled the plug out of the switch and check for KEY-ON voltage at the 6 pin plug. I have it at one pin. Just as I was checking my fuses in my panel, which are all good, a friend of mine pulls up in his 2007, 5.9, 6 speed and his truck has the power pedals. I pop out his switch and put in mine and it works his pedals both ways. I got my test light and with the pedal switch unplugged and the key on, HIS truck has TWO pins that have 12 volts where mine only has one. The pin on my truck that doesn't have power that my friends truck DOES is a RED wire that goes into the middle of the 6 pin socket. The other wire that has power in MY truck and my friends truck is a light grey green. Does anyone know whether this circuit has to be enabled with the Dodge star scan tool? I have wiring diagrams I am going to try to cypher. ANY HELP APPRECIATED!

 

[DonFitzwater]

Just guessing.....but the way these newer trucks are wired and or configured, will determine how plug and play owner added components can be. It may be simpler for you to simply add an auto sensing relay to the pedals to make power available at key on.

 

[Motorhead]

I followed the red with orange wire all the way to the TIPM where the gang plug plugs into the back of the TIPM. With the key on, I have no voltage. I am going to call my local dealer tomorrow and see if they can tell me whether it has to be activated by the scan tool or not. Otherwise, as you suggested, I will find another ignition on circuit to tie into with a relay or I have three spare fuse positions in the TIPM.

 

[Motorhead]

Calling the dealer was to no avail. He said I needed the build code for the power pedals and then he would have to get a hold of Dodge/Fiat or whoever owns Dodge now and see if they can then program the circuit on the TIPM. So I went to plan B. I found a live but empty fuse in the TIPM. It is for a reverse lockout on a SRT-10. I bought some .110" female push-on connectors and got tapped into that fuse via the back side of the TIPM. I put a 5 amp fuse in. All is good for power.
Three days later: I decided to "Hit It" and get the pedals changed out. I had previously serviced everything and it was tome to install. Book says to remove the steering column and all the electrical to the steering wheel. I decided to go for it from just the under side. I feel I am a pretty competent wrencher and I would rate this job difficulty from doing it from the underside as a 8.5 to 9 out of 10. The standard pedals are easy. he power pedals are more bulky and you have to put it together in sequence otherwise, you can't get to the piece you were supposed to put in first! You also have to install some of the screw drives after the pedal is installed and that is a PITA. The throttle pedal bracket went in first, then the brake pedal and lastly the clutch pedal For reasons unknown, the pivot pin on the clutch pedal is smaller OD than the plastic pin used on the standard pedal. Luckily, I have a bushing drawer and my Dads 1950 Powercraft (re badged Logan) lathe! I was able to make up a bushing the right OD and ID with no slop.
I did have to drop the steering wheel and shaft from the casting piece to route two of the drive cables that drive the brake and clutch pedals. That just took removing 4 nuts and the steering wheel and column dropped enough to run the cables.
So for me, It was ALL worth it. My left knee isn't the best and with a Southbend clutch, having the pedals out all the way added leverage to the clutch pedal. It makes the clutch disengagement a lot easier plus now, I can sit with the seat all the way back as I am 6'1"
I also "clocked" the clutch pedal out further than the brake, in other words, the clutch pedal sticks out just a tad further than the brake. One thing nice is that I can change it back easily. I think I took some pictures. The Job is do-able from the underside but I'm glad I only have to do it once.