Okay, it's a piece 'O cake. First, decide on which type of gauge you want to install, mechanical or electric sender. I have two, an Autometer Ultralight on the hood (mech. gauge set up for pre-filter psi's) and the SPA digital gauge ( electric sender, set up for post filter psi's). The single best place for the sender location is at the bottom of the fuel filter housing as it allows you to see what the injection pump is actually seeing. There are a couple of ways to set this up, the easiest is by using one of Ray T's tapped banjo bolts, available here
http://216.167.98.200/CoastalData/s...69689111&st3=-52585927&Product_ID=593&CATID=1 Use a tapped banjo bolt to replace the banjo bolt at the bottom of the fuel filter housing, it's tapped to receive a 1/8" NPT sender/fitting. This is probably the easiest way to set up a FP gauge while remaining otherwise stock.
Another option is too use a -4AN fitting over the rear Schrader valve ( you have to remove the valve) and a pressure port adapter. This will give you pre-filter psi's, which are better than no reading, but the post numbers are really what you want to monitor. I ran this way for a while, but ended up swapping out all the banjo bolts and using Weber adpaters in their place with Aeroquip elbows and braided SS line.
You might also want to consider isolatiing the sender, if you go with a electric gauge, by using a short length of grease gun hose, 1/8" NPT on both ends. Just plug one end into the pressure port and the other to your sender. Some members have experienced sender failures from the pulse set by the injection pump. That being said, my SPA sender is plumbed right into the pressure port at the bottom of the fuel filter canister and I've had no problems so far.
If I missed something, ask away and I'll do my best.
Scott W.