Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Installing gauges on a 24V.

[jwilliams3]

Which wire or fuse is tapped to dim the gauge lights?

Any info is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Michael Hughes]

On my 99, I used fuse 5.



I don't understand your subject line?

 

[1tuffram]

I think he is wanting the ability to dim/brighting the gauge lights with the dimmer switch so they match (are the same brightness) the rest of the dash/insturment panel lighting.

 

[jjdiesel]

headlight dimmer switch

Take the black plastic dash molding off to access the headlight switch. Use a test light to see which wire coming out of the switch dims with your dash lights. Splice into the wire nice & neat and ... . your done!

 

[BK]

the other thing you can do is pull out the ash tray. you'll see a white "nub" sticking out slightly. If you reach under the dash you'll grab a connector that the nub belongs to. With a slight twist you can get the nub to release from the hole in the dash so you have access to the connector. The connector is the light for the ashtray. One wire is ground , the other is the dimmed 12V for the bulb. You can use a volt meter or a test light to find the hotside.



If you tap off of the headlight switch directly, you must do it with a fuse. It's not fused - yet. That wire from the head light switch dimmer heads over to the fuse block and becomes fused by fuse #5.



If you use fuse #5 with a fuse tap, turn on your headlights so the instrument panel lights are on. Pull the fuse (the instrument lights must go out if it's the correct fuse), using a voltmeter or test light test which side is hot, you want the fuse tap on the other side.



-Bob

 

[Car_nut57]

You can use the back of the headlight switch or the ash tray light. The ash tray is easier to reach.

 

[MPBerk]

transmission sensor install, looking for best no hassle method

Installing Isspro EV trans Temp. Heard two ways to do it. Not comfy with center plug method, will this not cut off flow as this is a psi port? What is the " 95 line" and who , what, and where?



thanks,

MP

 

[Car_nut57]

We have been using a port on the transmission located on the drivers side which is behind and above the shift linkage on the transmission. I think it is the only test port on the drivers side of the transmission. When you remove this plug you will find that the port really isn't deep enough to screw the 1/8"npt temperature sensors directly. If you want to use this port you can use a male reducer 1/8npt x 1/4"fnpt and a 1/8npt x 1/4npt bushing. This allows for the trans fluid to run across the tip of the sender without protruding into the test port.

 

[MPBerk]

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I will be looking at that option.

 

[Johnny5]

Trans temp location

Dave, will that work on a 2001. 5 auto?



J5

 

[Fireman Dave]

I did the '95 cooler line on my 2001. It worked slick. It has a port in it for the sender. You have to remove the drainback valve on the line, but it's not a big deal. Many believe this to be the best place for the sender. The down side is the line is about $100. at the dealer. The part number is 5011244AA

 

[MPBerk]

Dave,

So far that seems to be the concensus from most CTD pilots. Do you know if the 5011244AA the same that http://www.desertdieselparts.com/d24_automatictransmissions.htm offers for $85 + s/h? The farther I stay away from stealers, the better I feel.

You have to remove the drainback valve on the line

located where in the line?

Any chance you have a installed pic?



MP

 

[Johnny5]

A few more questions

Fireman Dave,



I had the same question as MP. Also, is it the line from trans to the cooler mounted on the motor? I was looking at the manual but wasn't sure about it and right now the manual and truck are inaccessible to check. Any quick disconnects on that line? If so do you need the tool the recommend to use?



I am laying down all the ground work for a gauge w/e during the fall, this way I be set on info and parts. Hopefully I can check out your setup some w/e prior to when I do mine.



Johnny5



PS. Is ther any negative effects associated with removal of the drainback valve?

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Fred Swanson from Desert Diesel Parts.com did my transmission in the spring. He recommended to install the cooler line off of the 95. I have very consistant temp readings. This is the way to go. His price is about $35 cheaper than the Stealer..... I priced it for $121. 89 at the local parts counter. He will ship it same day. Call him 623 910 9575. . Just talked to him he said to give him a call.



Greg

 

[MPBerk]

greg-

Tks for the info... . do you have any pics handy? Will call Fred @ first opp.



MP

 

[Fireman Dave]

MP:



That sounds about right. I think it listed for about $98. when I bought it (I got it for $75. ). This is a replacement hard line that goes from the side of the transmission to the heat exchanger at the back underside of the engine.



No adverse affects on the drainback valve removal. There is a drainback valve in the heat exchanger fitting, so that's why you need to remove one - you don't want 2 of them. The valve is a little rubber ball with a spring located in the fitting at the end of the new line (on the end that goes into the exchanger). The way I got it out was to put a cut piece of old brake or fuel line in a drill and drill it out. The sharp end of the cut line acts as a nice little cutter to chew up the ball. I replaced the line when I did the trans filter and fluid - I think it was less messy that way.



Johnny - maybe we can have a mod day and give you a hand with your gauges. Let me know when you want to do it.



Edit: Sorry Johnny - I was tired earlier. There are no quick disconnects. The fittings on each end of the line are regular 3/4" - I think. Once you get the new line, it's easy to see which one it replaces on the truck. It's an exact fit - same bends and everything.



Dave

 

[MPBerk]

thanks dave



Rattle On!!!!!!



MP