Just time consuming, and a pain keeping the firewall insulation dust from covering the back 1/4 of the valve train (use a piece of cardboard).
I did mine over the winter.
Helpful additional tools other than your basic tools;
A: Mighty Vac vacuum gauge (used to suck fluid out of the bolt holes)
B: A couple cans of brake clean
C: Inspection mirror
D: Small and bright flashlight
1. Remove valve cover, and intake horn, use a rag or towel to cover the intake manifold and the intercooler pipe.
2. Remove all 12 rocker arm assemblies (technically you only need to do just the exhaust, but more room is nice the first time). Make sure you keep them in order when you place them to the side, and hold down the push rods as you lift the rockers off.
3. Going in OEM tightening sequence, remove the first OEM head bolt (see attached image)
4. Using the brake clean with the small squirt tube included with it, spray a little bit into the bolt hole. Now use the MV to suck out the oil/brake clean mix. You want a clean dry hole.
4. Lube the stud threads with the recommended lube (ARP studs come with some).
5. Thread the stud into the head all the way in, then back it off 1/2 turn.
6. ... (I was going to type all the procedure for torqueing the stud nut, but I have slept since November, and taken a few hits to the head. I can not accurately remember the final torque number, or if you even need to do the torques steps. I'd call Rip or Bill at Source Automotive to get this info. )
7. Repeat steps 3 - 6, 25 more times Oo.
8. Clean out the rocker arm bolt holes with the MV, and Install rocker arm assemblies in the correct locations (that is why you kept them in order on removal) starting with Cyl #6.
Make darn sure that the push rods are still in the cups that ride on the cam and the rocker arm! Use the inspection mirror to look down the push rod ports to make sure they are in position. Make sure the valve bridge is still in position on the valve stems. Torque rocker arm bolts to 27#.
9. Remove the crank breather (unscrew) from the timing cover. Rotate the engine via the alternator nut (24mm?) until the hash mark on the VP44 drive gear is at 12:00.
10. Adjust the valves for cylinders;
INTAKE 1, 2, 4 - . 010" (+/- . 005)
EXHAUST 1, 3, 5 . 020" (+/- . 005)
11. Rotate the engine 180* (hash mark on drive gear will now be at 6:00)
12 Adjust the valves for cylinders;
INTAKE 3, 5, 6 - . 010" (+/- . 005)
EXHAUST 2, 4, 6 - . 020" (+/- . 005)
13. Reinstall crank breather.
14. Reinstall the intake horn (make sure you remove the rags/towels)
15. Reinstall the valve cover.
16. Start and run engine to operating temperature (drive easy)
17. Let engine cool completely.
18 Repeat steps 1 - 15 with the exception that you
are not removing the studs, only breaking loose the nut, then re-torqueing to final spec. This is where you can get away with only removing the exhaust rocker assembly. The intake horn can stay in place as well, though it does make it easier to torque with it out.
19. Drive the truck for a couple of days. Drive normal, no hot rodding.
20. Repeat steps 1-15... . again.
21. Drive the truck for a week or so, you can get into it a bit more, but don't go for max boost.
22. Repeat steps 1-15 one last time.
23. Drive it like you stole it.
Disclaimer These instructions are only the authors recommended steps and procedures for performing the described tasks. The author takes no responsibility for end user results. As with all major engine mechanical work of this nature, it should be performed by a trained and experienced mechanic, and should not be attempted by the average vehicle owner. Follow these directions at your own risk.
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