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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Installing Injectors

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How hard is it to install new injectors and are there any special tools that are needed. I would like to install 275,s myself and save the $100-150. I do all my own work on most every thing else but never injectors on a cummins. I've helped on a cat in my truck. Bring on the advice!!!:D
 
Three words: Piece of Cake



Seriously, reading the instructions that come with the injectors seemed more intimidating than the actual install. I had never attempted anything close to this when I did mine. The only special tool you will need is medium sized bent nose pliers and torque wrenches, although I did not have one at the time. The only other thing to watch out for is tearing the intake plenum gasket. According to DD's instructions, the gasket *should* have been able to be reused. Unfortunately, there was no way mine was coming off without being torn. The other problem was that since this is a dealer only item, and we don't have a dealer within 100 miles, we had to buy gasket material and make one. If not for that glitch, the whole project would have only taken approx. 1. 5 hrs.



There are several posts out there that have covered injector installations and everybody has something to add from their own personal experiences.



Take advantage of the fact that these engines are fairly user friendly.
 
The hardest part of the install is the #6 injector line. The rest is easy. It took me about 3 hrs by myself and working in a slow pace and answering the phone every time I turned around. I did not use bent nose pliers although they may have made it easier. Find the time and go for it. Besides a torque wrench, the only special tool I needed was something to stand on.
 
Give me your E-mail.....

And I'll send you the PDF of the install. You can look it over and see if it's something you'd want to do.



First time ever and it took me just over and hour. On th 02 I found it was easier to use a stubby wrench than the crows foot. Just snugged it up nice and tight. There was another thread where some have complained that after torquing to the required amount they had leaks. They snugged them up and no problems since.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68104



Have the intake gaskets as a stand by. The 01 ruined them and the 02 came off fine.



Garrett



EDIT: There are probably some in your area that could help you out if you just ask. It's amazing how many areas are covered by TDR membership.
 
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Let me add this... ... Remember... ... ... 1 ft/lb = 12 in/lb's Don't do like I did and twist off the 6mm bolt that holds the inj. clamp down:mad: It was a weekend and Cummins was closed. However, I did get to talk to a nice lady that basically said "I'm Sorry, we're closed untill Monday" Needless to say I invested in an in/bl torquewrench. DD recommends 87 in/lb's on the holddowns. :rolleyes: Also, the bent nose pliers are great to use but if you have a fairly new truck they come out pretty easy. Don't misalign the nozzle to the fuel line and it's actually easier with someone's help to pull the fuel line back to uninstall/reinstall the injectors. It's a piece of cake, unless a person is TOTALLY mechaically uninclined. It's worth the trouble, the right injectors make a big difference. HAPPY INJECTIONING! :D :D



Dave
 
Im not mechanically inclined at all. First time I changed oil I was 21. This job is very easy. very straight forward. Only thing that took time was proper alignment of the injector. The 4" silver fuel tubes didnt want to go back in easily. The first time they popped back in noticably. Couldnt get the the second time.



I learned about lb inches on my subaru transmission. I thought that was a lot of torque for a little bolt. lol. Had to drill it out. Me being an idiot with any power tool I drilled right into the transmission housing. Didnt nail anything inside so I tapped the hole and stuck a bolt in it. no problems for the life of the car. A white birch jumped out in front of my x wife and killed the car at 145k. Most mechanically sound car ever built. Couple of pads and a set of cvs in 145k or grueling stress testing on a daily basis.
 
to help pulling injectors use one of the valve cover bolts the threads are the same. Screw the bolt into the injector ,grab bolt with a pair of pliers,and use a screw driver to pry injector out. The hold down plate torque is 89inlbs. To ease the removal of the #6 fuel line , remove the rear engine bracket. Don't pry the lines away from the head , completely remove the lines, you could bend the lines , and they could break. Tighten the lines back up snug, the suggested torque ussualy always leaks. Hope some of this helps.
 
its a pretty simple install. I have it down to about an hour now. Before you start you may want to order 2 new intake gaskets (new ones are red rubber-reuseable) and 6 new fuel supply tube o-rings. Some install instructions say to remove tubes others say to just pop them out a little bit to clear the fuel hole in injector. I have found that the more mileage or time on these o-rings the less flexible they get. Some people mistakenly believe that the fuel lines are leaking when in reality its extra fuel getting by the o-rings and seeping out around the 19mm nut (around the threads) that holds the fuel line to fuel supply tube(in the head). Tools needed- 13mm socket, 10mm socket, 19mm wrench, 7/16" deep socket, 8mm socket w/ inch pound torque wrench, small screwdriver, red locktight, I used a straight needle nose to lever out bolt/injector. Good Luck. :D
 
Well it sounds like it is injector time!!!! Thanks for the advice,we probably have all the tools as my brother is our aircraft mechanic. Does'nt sound like any real special tools. The cat is in our Freightshaker!!:D
 
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