Installing Isspro Boost/EGT gauges?

[JGrefenstette]

tomaro im going to tackle the boost/egt gauges. dual a-pillar mounted. 40psi manifold press. and pre-tubo pyro. any tricks or tips i should now about? or any suprises i need to be aware of? are there any tricks for drilling and taping the manifold for the egt probe?

 

["Mad Max"]

Tap a little at a time, a very little. It is real easy to open the hole up too much when tapping the pyro, and then the fitting will bury itself too far.

- M2

 

[hsmith]

Also don't drill between the runners, rather in the center of one runner.

 

[JGrefenstette]

ok. so should i be trying to get the thurmo couple flush or not? do i need to worry about the depth of it? i thought i just drill it out, tap it, run the thermo couple in flush and it was done?

 

["Mad Max"]

The depth should be just enough to bury the threads on the fitting nearly flush with the outside face of the manifold - here's a link to the instructions on PDR's website.



PDR Diesel Inc. The turbo diesel performance specialists! - Pyrometer Probe Installation



... and a couple pics of mine:



#ad




#ad




Drill the hole, tap a bit, then test the fitting until it's snug. If there's threads still showing, keep going, a little at a time, like half a turn of the tap, then retest. Use some oil so the threads don't get jacked up. That cast iron is relatively soft stuff comared to the fitting (usually stainless steel).



- M2

 

[JGrefenstette]

i could be wrong but aint it a 1/4 inch tap, and what size drill bit should i use to drill for that size tap?

 

["Mad Max"]

The drill and tap sizes will be totally dependent on the fitting supplied with the pyro - not sure what you have but there should be the tap size indicated with the instructions and the drill size should be indicated on the tap itself. The PDR directions and my photos are simply for reference, and the drill and tap sizes 'should' be similar, but could absolutely not be correct to your application. That almost sounds like a disclaimer . When in doubt, give the gauge mfg a call and they can give you more precise directions for your gauges.



Anyone out there have ISSPRO-specific info? My pics are for an Autometer pyro...



- M2

 

[JGrefenstette]

ok, thanks. great to know. ill look more into the instructions. also, it apears that my fittings are all brass. which is pretty soft stuff. cause thats what is used in welding gas and torch fuel tanks for the regulators and everything.

 

[JGrefenstette]

oh, 2 more questions.



1. whats the best way to drill and tap it with our removing the turbo?



2. ive never done gauges before and am not familiar with the way things should look, but the egt probe is about 2 inches long it looks like... is that right? from the pictures in the link it looked a lot smaller than that. and im sure i orderd the pre-turbo probe.

 

["Mad Max"]

There has been a lot of discussion on tapping a pyro, all with similar success. I did a search of the 1st gen threads on the topic - have a look here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/search.php?searchid=92652



I always recommend removing the turbo and replacing the steel gasket in the process.



IIRC, you can insert the probe as far as you want, and the probe upper fitting makes a nice compression seal, so I think the probe depth is adjustable in that way. PDR's schymatic shows how far the probe should protude down into the manifold. I'd have to call Mark at PDR for any specific info - their # is (604) 888-0143.



- M2

 

[JGrefenstette]

tryed the link, didnt work for me. said no matches found.



so should i unscrew the two parts of the probe fitting, screw the fitting into the manifold then screw the probe and smaller fitting into the already installed fitting????? also, i really will try to avoid removing the turbo at all costs. the 4 bolts are rusted terribly and id rather just avoid that headache. thanks for the phone #

 

[JLEONARD]

You CAN do it without removing the turbo... I've done several that way.

Use a 1/8 drill to start with or a center drill if you have one Don't drill thru untill you use the tap drill size (I think it's 7/16 for a 1/4 NPT tap, but I don't have my refernce table here... do an internet search and you'll find a table).

Then I grease that drill just before I break thru to grab some of the chips on the drill. Then use a magnet and/or a shop vac to get the chips out.

Use grease on the tap as well. Then repeat the mag/shop vac routine when you're done tapping.

Any remaining chips will go thru the turbo at start up... cast iron chips are very small.

Have fun

 

[JGrefenstette]

awesome, thanks a lot fellas. yea its a 7/16 for the 1/4 npt. i got a set for it from a fellow tdr member, who lives near by. cant wait to get it done and put up some pictures.

 

[JGrefenstette]

lot of progress today. just have to wire and mount the gauges now. everything under the hood is complete, and the pyro-computerbox is mounted under the dash. tomaro i hope to get the gauges wired and mounted on the pillar. Lord willing it will all work as expected and i wont have to redue anything.



1 question: is it possible to over tighten the small fitting that the vaccum line goes into on the manifold. im talking about the little nut with the hallow ballbearing in it. that tightens down on the vaccum line itself. i was just wondering if there have been any issues with that, or if it is not possible to screwup. thanks

 

[JLEONARD]

Yes you could tighten it too much... that could crush the plastic line... and/or cut it causing a leak.

Worst case is that you need to cut the line short, buy a new brass farrule and re do. "Lightly snug" is how I would describe how much to tighten the nut.

But you're probably ok... . try it... if it leaks I think you will hear it from inside the cab. If it doesn't leak ... . forget about it.

 

[JGrefenstette]

alrighty then, my concern was that i would not read much boost at the gauge cause i might have pinched the line or somthing, ill no when i get it all put together and run it. thanks

 

[JLEONARD]

No, even if you pinch it off most of the way you will still read the correct boost... the fear is a leak more than anything... no leaky and you're fine.

 

[JGrefenstette]

10-4





ill get back to you once its all buttoned up and tested out. thanks again.

 

[JGrefenstette]

ok, its all done! the only thing left to do is drive it. it is 100% ready to go, but i finished it at 10pm tonight and felt like id rather test run it in the morning. ill post as many pictures as i can of the work and wiring so yall can tell me what i could have done better and what you think of how it was done. i am a total novice when it come to doing gauges, ive never even watched someone else do them... . so i just learned as i went. ill be curious to see what yalls look like in compairison.



i wired the pyrometer amplifier box to the cigarette lighter so it would be linked to the ignition, and i wired the lights all to the positive wiring that lead into the tachometer harness. that way they would be controled by the dimmer switch. all the lights work excelent. so i cant wait to see if the gauges do what their supposed to. ill get back with yall in the a. m.



much thanks

 

[JGrefenstette]

fellas, im lost. totaly. the boost works i think? 2nd gear i get maybe 2lbs psi. 3rd gear tops out around 5-7psi and 4th gets me about 12, 5th will probly do the same if i really get into it. is that right? with the clutch in if i rev it up i cant get any psi, is that right?



the pyrometer is not working period. nothing. im going to pull the pillar and see if i hit a wire with a srew, otherwise i got no clue, any ideas? help, please id be greatful