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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Installing Mag-Hytec Diff Covers--Looking for Lessons Learned

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Installing Mag Hytec Differential Covers on the front (Dana 60) and Rear (Dana 80). I'm stationed in Iceland (world's best four wheeling), so I need to change out the fluid more often due to moisture entering the axle from fording multiple rivers.



I cannot find SAE 90W fluid that is recommended by the Dodge Service Manual. The only fluid available is either 80/90W or 85/90W. What would the impact of using 80/90W with my limited slip differential?
 
I wish I could be of more help on the viscosities, but I have read on more than one post that the Friction Modifier can make or break the cones in the limited slip rear.
 
Tsexton-



Make sure that you loosen the fill plugs and drain plugs before installing - sometimes they are a real bear to loosen and if the thing is mounted it will make it tougher. Also, use good hexhead sockets on the torque wrench - I had a cheap one from harbor freight break off in the allen head and had to use an air chisel to get it out. And another thing - take off the spare when you do it - makes it much easier.



That is all I can think of for now.
 
Make sure you clean up the mounting surface, check for gouges that may leak.



I had to undo the tie rod on the drivers side to get the front cover on.



I tried the synthetic 75W/140 & it seemed to thick. I am running synthetic 75W/90 & everything seems fine. With the temps in Iceland, your truck will probably like the 75W/90 (or 80W90) better. If the gear oil is Hypoid, you won't need the friction modifier.



The oil capacities are almost doubled.
 
There may be some letter and/or number stampings in the gasket surface area from assembly, used for identification. If you have any where the O-ring will contact, use a flat file and take any risen areas down. More specifically, when the stampings are done, some metal is displaced a few thousandths, which can result in nuiasance leaks. I filed them flat, and used black RTV to fill the stamping recesses where the O-ring was likely going to seal. File flat any nicks or imperfections by hand with light pressure.

Smear just enough to fill the stamping. No need to make a bead. Let it cure for an hour or so. Clean the gasket surface area with spray brake-cleaner or paint thinner on a rag to get any residual lube oil off before applying RTV.

Be careful not to overtighten the bolts, fill plugs and drain plugs! The dipstick only needs to be snug. If you overtighten it, the next time you want to remove it to check things you'll have a time getting it to break loose.
 
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