Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
So I finally got around to installing my Garrett Powermax Stage 2 GT3782R water cooled ball bearing turbo. I wanted to do it earlier but other things got in the way, like a noisy release bearing and life in general. The truck was parked most of the winter. But with the Cummins plant tour just a few weeks away I figured I better get my butt in gear. Reading this thread helped a lot https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ge-2-GT3782R-Install-Review&highlight=Garrett. Thanks AH64ID your pictures helped better than the instructions that came with the turbo as some pictures were 2nd gen and some were 3rd. I had been waiting for a Steed Speed exhaust manifold but I couldn't get one and the price had gone up. When I came across a good used AFE Bladerunner stainless steel one and the price was fight ( I traded some parts for it ) I started the install.
Last summer one of my CAC hose slipped off while towing and my pre turbo pyro hit 1500 and my boost dropped to 2. I think my heart also stopped for a second. The turbo started to pump some oil after that. It wasn't noticeable while driving but if you got the engine hot and let it sit for say 10-15 minutes and then took off you got a major smoke cloud. I pulled off the intake horn and it had some oil residue in it so now I had the excuse to get a new turbo.
On Tuesday ( it was my day off ) I loaded up the Jeep and drove out to my buddies acreage to start on the job. It is about 40 minutes across town and then out in the country. When I got there I realised I had forgotten to put the exhaust manifold in the Jeep. :{ I started disassembly anyway. It would take me 2 hours to go get the manifold and a few other things, like my camera so I could take pictures to show you. There was evidence of oil in the turbo hose going to the Charge Air Cooler. I knew I had to have the CAC cleaned so I used the pressure washer. As I was flipping it over to flush in the other direction I noticed a small stream of water coming from the bottom tube. Great now I need a new cooler. While it is always good to do an upgrade having to spent more money right now wasn't in my plans. I ordered a Duralite. It arrived today.
Taking the old parts out wasn't a problem but as I have said before anytime you do a mod it comes back to bite you later. This time it was my PacBrake that didn't fit with the new turbo. It had to come off and get the bracket modified for clearance with the intake housing. I took off the RF tire and removed the inner fender. I removed the PacBrake and the turbo thru there. The manifold came out the top. Some people, those younger than me and with a better back, remove it all as an assembly out the top. While AH64ID in his thread said he had trouble with the back water pipe and the actuator rod I didn't. This should have been a clue for later. What I later discovered was that my turbo needed to be "clocked" that is have the three different parts of the turbo rotated so that the center section was in a different orientation. Since the exhaust snail has to be bolted to the manifold you can't move it, so I figured I would loosen the 4 bolts that hold the center section to it and rotated it slightly so I could get my drain tube lined up correctly. I needed a short wrench to get at the back one but I discovered that it is bolted not clamped like the old turbo so I couldn't rotate it anyway.
My truck is an 03 so it has the solid drain pipe with a hose and a nipple installed in the block. Garrett gives you a new drain pipe that is angled differently. I couldn't get either one to line up. I ended up using the flex style from the 04. 5 and newer engines, but that meant getting the nipple out of the block. I used a pair of Vise Grips, a long thick punch, made from a shift rail out of a 18 speed trans, and a hammer and it finally came out. I currently have the manifold the turbo and Brake all mounted. BTW just like AH64ID did I had to use a shorter turbo mounting bolt as the ones Garrett give you are 45mm ( 1 3/4 " ) long. I tried a 40mm bolt and it fit so I cut off 5mm or about 4 threads from one of the bolts and it worked. The short bolt points down and the longer one on the outer front hole goes in from the bottom. The curve of the after market manifold is smoother. I wish they would use 2 studs in it like Cummins does. I also had to modify the stock water tube that goes to the heater hose as it also wouldn't fit because of the curve of the new manifold. I had to use a turbo mounting nut to hold in on instead of the original one because the flange is smaller.
I took the night off tonight from working on my truck as I am tired and my family was wondering what I looked like. I left the camera out there and I will post picture later. It WILL get finished this weekend as I still have to clean and load the camper for the trip. I want to get some run time on the new setup before I leave town.
Shad
Last summer one of my CAC hose slipped off while towing and my pre turbo pyro hit 1500 and my boost dropped to 2. I think my heart also stopped for a second. The turbo started to pump some oil after that. It wasn't noticeable while driving but if you got the engine hot and let it sit for say 10-15 minutes and then took off you got a major smoke cloud. I pulled off the intake horn and it had some oil residue in it so now I had the excuse to get a new turbo.
On Tuesday ( it was my day off ) I loaded up the Jeep and drove out to my buddies acreage to start on the job. It is about 40 minutes across town and then out in the country. When I got there I realised I had forgotten to put the exhaust manifold in the Jeep. :{ I started disassembly anyway. It would take me 2 hours to go get the manifold and a few other things, like my camera so I could take pictures to show you. There was evidence of oil in the turbo hose going to the Charge Air Cooler. I knew I had to have the CAC cleaned so I used the pressure washer. As I was flipping it over to flush in the other direction I noticed a small stream of water coming from the bottom tube. Great now I need a new cooler. While it is always good to do an upgrade having to spent more money right now wasn't in my plans. I ordered a Duralite. It arrived today.
Taking the old parts out wasn't a problem but as I have said before anytime you do a mod it comes back to bite you later. This time it was my PacBrake that didn't fit with the new turbo. It had to come off and get the bracket modified for clearance with the intake housing. I took off the RF tire and removed the inner fender. I removed the PacBrake and the turbo thru there. The manifold came out the top. Some people, those younger than me and with a better back, remove it all as an assembly out the top. While AH64ID in his thread said he had trouble with the back water pipe and the actuator rod I didn't. This should have been a clue for later. What I later discovered was that my turbo needed to be "clocked" that is have the three different parts of the turbo rotated so that the center section was in a different orientation. Since the exhaust snail has to be bolted to the manifold you can't move it, so I figured I would loosen the 4 bolts that hold the center section to it and rotated it slightly so I could get my drain tube lined up correctly. I needed a short wrench to get at the back one but I discovered that it is bolted not clamped like the old turbo so I couldn't rotate it anyway.
My truck is an 03 so it has the solid drain pipe with a hose and a nipple installed in the block. Garrett gives you a new drain pipe that is angled differently. I couldn't get either one to line up. I ended up using the flex style from the 04. 5 and newer engines, but that meant getting the nipple out of the block. I used a pair of Vise Grips, a long thick punch, made from a shift rail out of a 18 speed trans, and a hammer and it finally came out. I currently have the manifold the turbo and Brake all mounted. BTW just like AH64ID did I had to use a shorter turbo mounting bolt as the ones Garrett give you are 45mm ( 1 3/4 " ) long. I tried a 40mm bolt and it fit so I cut off 5mm or about 4 threads from one of the bolts and it worked. The short bolt points down and the longer one on the outer front hole goes in from the bottom. The curve of the after market manifold is smoother. I wish they would use 2 studs in it like Cummins does. I also had to modify the stock water tube that goes to the heater hose as it also wouldn't fit because of the curve of the new manifold. I had to use a turbo mounting nut to hold in on instead of the original one because the flange is smaller.
I took the night off tonight from working on my truck as I am tired and my family was wondering what I looked like. I left the camera out there and I will post picture later. It WILL get finished this weekend as I still have to clean and load the camper for the trip. I want to get some run time on the new setup before I leave town.
Shad
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