Installing TC and VB in 2007 2500 4 x 4.

[M Evan]

Hi guys, I do have 2007 2500 4 x 4 quad cab short bad with 30000 miles. Started to tow 13000# TH trailer and think maybe upgrade to better TC and WB will be good idea. Which bring my Q. how hard is to pull transmission out for TC replacement, if I want to do myself ?
Or I thought maybe change only WB. Will just changing WB help or they are set up to work with aftermarket TC only ?

Anybody hear about company called Revmaxx torque converter ?
They really have good prices for multidisc converters.
DODGE DIESEL 5. 9L TORQUE CONVERTER RAM CUMMINS 48RE: eBay Motors (item 260604829776 end time Jun-16-10 08:52:51 PDT)

THX milos

 

[KIKER]

I don't think anyone is interested in auto trans right now.

 

[cerberusiam]

Pulling the trans is not too bad if you are used to doing it and have the tools and a lift. By hand its a job for sure.



Drop the drive shafts and cross member to start, disconnect the shifter and all eletrical harnesses, remove the shift linkage and TV motor.



If you have a lift and trans jack you can leave the t-case and trans together if you support both. If your doing on the floor you had better seperate the two.



Once thats done you will find a couple of plates on the passenger side of the bell housing behind the turbo. One is for the barring tool the other is for accessing the converter to flex plate bolts. Bar the engine using the tool until a bolt lines up and remove it, 6 times.



Now remove the bolts that hold the trans to the engine adapter and slide the trans back and down.



The TC just slides out the front. When you install the new one you have to make sure the dogs on the pump ar aligned with the solts on the converter hub and the converter botoms or you will destroy the pump installing it.



Reverse everything above to install.





I think you mean VB (valve body) not WB. Pretty easy to do on the floor with the fluid drained. Just make sure things are clean when reassembled.





Good luck.

 

[M Evan]

I don't think anyone is interested in auto trans right now.

Not sure what you mean ???

milos

 

[M Evan]

Pulling the trans is not too bad if you are used to doing it and have the tools and a lift. By hand its a job for sure.



Drop the drive shafts and cross member to start, disconnect the shifter and all eletrical harnesses, remove the shift linkage and TV motor.



If you have a lift and trans jack you can leave the t-case and trans together if you support both. If your doing on the floor you had better seperate the two.



Once thats done you will find a couple of plates on the passenger side of the bell housing behind the turbo. One is for the barring tool the other is for accessing the converter to flex plate bolts. Bar the engine using the tool until a bolt lines up and remove it, 6 times.



Now remove the bolts that hold the trans to the engine adapter and slide the trans back and down.



The TC just slides out the front. When you install the new one you have to make sure the dogs on the pump ar aligned with the solts on the converter hub and the converter botoms or you will destroy the pump installing it.



Reverse everything above to install.





I think you mean VB (valve body) not WB. Pretty easy to do on the floor with the fluid drained. Just make sure things are clean when reassembled.





Good luck.

Thank don't sound so hard. I do have car lift and transmission jack. Just one more, can engine be supported in original level to pull transmission out or need to drop down and call for exhaust to be disconnected ? Sorry, yeah I meant VB .

THX milos

 

[cerberusiam]

Thank don't sound so hard. I do have car lift and transmission jack. Just one more, can engine be supported in original level to pull transmission out or need to drop down and call for exhaust to be disconnected ? Sorry, yeah I meant VB .

THX milos

The engine is close to center mounted with a little more to the rear so it will tilt back some with the weight of the trans on it. I would not hang the trans unsupported on it though.



The exhaust does not need to be removed, only the down pipe mount on the bell housing needs to be unhooked and moved off the flange. Leaving the exhaust in one piece will help support any excess weight to the rear so the engine will sit without problems with the trans out.



A car lift may not be enough, watch your weight and height as these trucks are HEAVY. Sounds like you have enough equipment and experience to do it without a problem.



With only 30k and if you don't have big tires and extra power your clutches should be good. If you go with a VB or shift kit its a good idea to pull the pump and replace the reaction rings on the the back side with some better teflon ones. The steel ones have a habit of locking out and galling the steel under higher pressures.



Along with the VB you really need to replace the front servo, accumulator, and the front band strut\anchor to handle the extra pressure.

 

[Motorhead]

I think it would be a waste of time to install a built valve body WITHOUT a better torque convertor. The stock convertors in the automatics are a "slip and slide" type.
I had the trans built (DTT) in the '01. 5 I had and there was a WORLD of difference with a tighter convertor.