Intake manifold bolts

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Just letting folks know something worth checking.

When installing a Prime-Loc fuel filter re-location kit on my 1996 12 valve engine, I noticed that when I removed the rear intake manifold bolt to install the new filter mount, the bolt was very rusted. Not only were the threads rusted, but the shoulder had actually exfoliated for a space about 1 1/2 inched above the threads.

Out of curiosity I cleaned the bolt on a wire wheel and found that approx. 1/32nd of an inch of metal had been eaten away in this area. This could have proved to be a major hassle if the bolt had broken down inside of the hole. Thankfully, the threads, although rusted,were not seized and the bolt came out easily.
I think anyone planning to install a filter re-location kit should check these bolts before getting too far into removing any other parts.

By the way, the Prime-Loc kit is probably the best thing I have installed on my truck. The directions supplied are great.

 

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A. G. ,any problem finding replacement bolts?If I remember right they are somewhat special,long with short amount of threads.

 

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I found the same bolt condition on my truck, at the same time. Before installing the prime loc, I cleaned and lubricated (WD-40) all the bolts. Any fasteners should be lubricated before reinstallation and re-torquing, anyway. All torque specifications are based on lubricated fittings. (Wheel lug nuts excepting, I'm sure!)

 

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Quatch:
Just curiosity... is it normal practice to obtain torque readings on bolts that are lubricated? My understanding is just the opposite... but as with most things in life, I could easily be wrong.
Anyone out there who does/did this sort of thing for a living? A definitive answer to this question would really be appreciated!
TIA for any help.

 

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The torque specs on any fastener assumes that the fastener is new, clean, and free of burrs and that the threads are lightly lubed <light oil, not grease>. The fastener should always be tourqed in a single sweeping motion not in several pulls to help prevent galling and if the manual calls for a torque sequence, follow it to prevent warping.
Sometimes the manual will call for a torque of specified torque, say 90 ft/lbs. , + 90 degrees as in the Cummins head bolts. The same rules apply. Reach the desired torque and add 90 degrees in a single sweeping motion.
I have heard but not substantiated that typical click type quality torque wrenches should be reset to zero after each pull. I have never done this procedure, I tend to set them all at once. Don't forget to set the wrench back at zero immediatly after torquing to prevent out-of-calibration problems later.
-Paul R. Haller-

 

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I've always felt that antiseize or thread lockers provide enough lube. You should usually be useing one or the other depending on the situation anyways.

 

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Paul,

Great answer to the question! I, too, try to be real careful about zeroing my wrench each time it's used.