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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Intercooler Boots Options? Better than BD?

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Been getting more black smoke and a hissing noise, so 20 psi on an intake tester mounted to the turbo showed me more leaks than I imagined. I've been running BD Power's blue intercooler boot kit with the spring clamps since 2007. They are leaking on me, 3 out of 4 leak now. I twisted and tweaked the boots tightened the clamps down to the max and they still leak at 20 psi. Intake horn is leaking too, I'll make a new gasket for that. But, is there a recommended source for new boots? I see Geno's sells a black colored kit, I want to try something different. The BD boots didn't last much longer than OEM.

I guess I'll try and clean mine up again and re-position the clamps one more time, they leak at the ends where they connect. But, I gotta feeling they are just dried out and hard.
 
My stockers have worked well for me for 500K miles. They even survived a year of running a Sled Puller 66 at up to 60psi.
 
My current BD boots only leak at the ends, maybe I can get them to seal. I'll try again when I replace the intake horn gasket.

20 psi of air and some soapy water in a spray bottle showed more leaks than I expected, even my boost gauge fitting is leaking at the threads. If I see these leaks at 20 psi I bet they are much worse at 40 psi. At least its not major, the intercooler showed no leaks. Looks like the whistling sound is the intake horn, at 20 psi it shoots out enough to feel it standing on the drivers side. Been getting louder over 30 psi. Thats the original gasket, fairly long life for a 1995 truck thats had that intake horn off a few times.
 
Could be just the clamps. If the boots still feel pliable and are not cracked or dry rotted maybe you could get away with different clamps.
 
I've had good luck for the past 15 years with blue silicon boots from Mr. Bobs, also with the blue coolant hose kit installed way back when. On sealing, the old hair spray trick generally works and cost is reasonable.
 
I guess I need to try the hair spray deal, the boots still look good. I was messing with them today, but I ran out of time. Those suckers are hard to get off, save it for tomorrow. Nice having two trucks! I can take my time with them and clean up the engine bay while I'm at it.

I'll probably go with Mr, Bob's next time. Wish I had the money for the whole kit, it would be nice having the coolant hoses too. But, I already have fresh gates coolant hoses on this year. Those suckers are costly, but the intercooler boots are priced competitively IMO.
 
Wondering how do I test for leaking boost? Truck is a 1996 CTD auto trans 4x4.

You can make a PVC cap with an air fitting using a hose or coupler to connect to the turbo and then but 20 psi on the system. I built my own with stuff from Lowes and a 4" silicone coupler off ebay to fit my turbo. Or buy one. Although its very easy to build if your handy and have a drill, screw driver, epoxy, air fitting etc. All you need is a way to connect an air compressor to the turbo and put 20 psi or a little less through it. They look like this: http://turboboostleaktesters.com/
 
I still ahve the OEM Boots and they are thight and work like desired.
Ok the color isn't so cool but hey there must be a downside on everything.

Remember, not everything from the OEM is just crap, most of the time the parts are pretty good quality.
 
Don't overlook what the truck dealers have as well....Flex Fab makes the air to air boots for a lot of the OEM truck manufacturers and they are blue silicone.

For example a 4" boot with reinforcing rings (the most common one) sells for about $18.00 to $20.00........there are many sizes beyond that.

Part Number for the 4" boot is FLF FRE1020 001.



flf-fre1020-0001.jpg


flf-fre1020-0001.jpg
 
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My OEM boots would not stay on past 30 psi and they failed a soapy water test. I only run about 42 psi or so at WOT, still running a stock head. I tightened the clamps for a while till they were totally shot with pin holes and dried out rubber. I guess OEM is fine if your near stock, but I don't run my 12 valve at stock levels. My old BD boots have no pin holes and stay on, I gotta feeling I should change the clamps. The boots are soft and look good, they are not popping off or anything like that. I'm re-positioning them again and trying to get a better seal. The suckers are stuck on there tight, they grip really well. Fixing to do a leak test again and see if the adjustments improved anything. Hopefully the new intake horn gasket will help with low initial boost, it was leaking bad and making a loud noise.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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Could be just the clamps. If the boots still feel pliable and are not cracked or dry rotted maybe you could get away with different clamps.

The BD boots are not pliable when they are new.They are slightly undersized and very stiff,that's what makes them a tougher install.
 
Don't overlook what the truck dealers have as well....Flex Fab makes the air to air boots for a lot of the OEM truck manufacturers and they are blue silicone.

For example a 4" boot with reinforcing rings (the most common one) sells for about $18.00 to $20.00........there are many sizes beyond that.

Part Number for the 4" boot is FLF FRE1020 001.



View attachment 95077

I wish we had 4" tubes.....
 
They offer the other sizes as well. I'll see if I can convert the CTD boots into Flex Fab numbers tonight
 
The BD boots are not pliable when they are new.They are slightly undersized and very stiff,that's what makes them a tougher install.

Sure, they all are slightly undersized, including the OEM boots. Maybe pliable wasn't the correct word. My point was unless they're dry rotted or cracked or stretched there's probably nothing wrong with them. If they're leaking at the connection and the boots pass a visual that tells me the clamps are compromised.
 
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