Interesting read on oil additives...

[steved]

newsletter



Basically, don't use them!



I like the last bit on "solvents" and the effects... for you MMO users.



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

ACTUALLY, that's a pretty old article, just "retreaded" by Blackstone - I first read that one probably 5 years or more ago. Good reading for the most part, and their coverage of STP pretty much covered my own reasoning for adding it to my oil while I had the '91 truck - but haven't used it in the '02 to this point, and since the Delo 400 uses Molybdenum for much the same function as STP's Zinc, probably won't mess with STP in any of my engines again.



The absolute BEST oil analysis wear numbers I *ever* had were while I was adding STP to my oil in that '91...

 

[05mxdiesel]

The absolute BEST oil analysis wear numbers I *ever* had were while I was adding STP to my oil in that '91...

Now say that exact statement over at bobistheoilguy and let the flaming begin. I read all of your threads where you prove that negatively biased products work but stating that STP provided you with the BEST wear numbers is another story over there.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Now say that exact statement over at bobistheoilguy and let the flaming begin. I read all of your threads where you prove that negatively biased products work but stating that STP provided you with the BEST wear numbers is another story over there.

PERHAPS... :-laf



But I have documentation to back that statement up! :-laf

 

[steved]

I bet coffee grounds would do wonders... if they claim teflon reduces friction, then caffeine should add at least 50hp...

steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I bet coffee grounds would do wonders... if they claim teflon reduces friction, then caffeine should add at least 50hp...



steved

AH well ~ I've taken heat before for supporting the STP and K&N filters I have used with excellent results in past years... :-laf



On one newspaper press I ran in past years, we couldn't keep some of the open-running gears from failing prematurely - until I started applying STP mixed with powdered graphite - never had a single failure after that. I've had several mechanical items that were old and tired, and wouldn't operate with usual lubes - but took off and worked perfectly after use of STP.



Had several older work vehicles that used oil - one a quart every tankful of fuel - but oil consumption on that worse one dropped to 1 quart per thousand miles after STP - all the others did equally well.



Those, and more examples, are not anecdotal heresay, second or third-hand experiences, but my own...



Only downside in STP use, was when overhauling engines that had been using STP, ( yes, even engines using STP WILL eventually wear out! :-laf) was that the STP actually penetrates the pores of the cast iron blocks - and it takes twice as long in a hot tank to get it out for reboring and honing the cylinder walls - or else the hones will get clogged and refuse to work.



I've had 2 different engines lose coolant, and get so hot the pistons seized in the cylinders - but after being allowed to cool, started and ran normally for many thousands of miles after that. THAT's where the STP does it's thing in preventing/reducing serious metal-to-metal contact damage. One of those engines, torn down for overhaul many miles and much later in time, showed absolutely NO internal effects of cylinder scuffing or related overheating damage,



But yeah, STP used in these later engines is probably a no-no, due to potential damage to catalytic converters and other emissions devices.



NOW, as to those nasty K&N air filters... :-laf:-laf

 

[steved]

I've used graphite and STP before... it does work well. I have actually used STP and graphite in some old splash lube engines with babbit bearings... never had an issue (I feel the graphite protects during "cold" starts.

I still run STP in the car (with excellent results), but the amount that would be "recommended" for a CTD would be substantial correct?

steved

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Gary why are you here instead of being in charge of STP's Advertising department? :-laf Sorry couldn't resist

I wonder if STP and graphite would solve the failures a few guys have had with the NV5600? LivingEZ on NW Bombers burned up 2 of them in less than 200k miles.

Steved maybe I oughta try it in my '50 Chevy. . . as I figure it the babbit bearings in the 216 could use some help slugging those cast iron pistons up & down in their bores, especially at highways speeds with the 4. 11 gears out back

 

[steved]

Steved maybe I oughta try it in my '50 Chevy. . . as I figure it the babbit bearings in the 216 could use some help slugging those cast iron pistons up & down in their bores, especially at highways speeds with the 4. 11 gears out back

We tried this in an old tractor engine... it seemed to work then (we had it for quite a while). Tractor was sold quite a few years ago, and I haven't seen it since.



Just keep in mind there are several "sizes" of graphite powder... the finest stuff seems to work best. And that engine didn't use a oil pump, it was completely splash lubricated.



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

You hafta be sorta careful about graphite use in worn engines - remember the stuff Mobil (I think) marketed that contained graphite? The stuff would quickly foul sparkplugs as the graphite migrated up into the combustion chamber and coated the electrodes and shorted them out - the stuff wasn't marketed very long before it got pulled... :-laf

 

[Featherman]

So which addtitive

I too fell to the MMO gang because the previous owner of the truck endorsed it and said that was all he used; SO now what???



Which additive would folkks recommend for a 1st gen??

 

[steved]

Which additive would folkks recommend for a 1st gen??

Generally, if you run a quality engine oil, then you don't need an oil additive. Basically, run a brand name oil of your choice and keep it changed regularly.



If you are talking fuel additive, I am a believe in using only those products that are marketed as diesel fuel additives. I use Power Service.



steved

 

[Featherman]

Additive

Steved... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... I should have clarified my Question; I just switched to Amsoil in the crankcase; not sure about the 25k between oil changes though, but will keep an eye on it.



What to use for a fuel additive is my main concern, I've been using MMO and have read a lot of posts about it being "snake oil".



Just like everyone else, looking for a good additive for the ULSD that we have to pump in these old beasts.

 

[amsoilman]

If you take the advice from ANY oil manufacturer, you will not need to add any other additives, as they have been formulated with the correct amounts in order to meet the specs. listed on the containers.

As an older friend of mine said, why mess with something that chemical engineers spent countless hours and large sums of money to come up with a proper formula for their oil. My friend was a chemist for an oil company, so I believed in what he said then and still do, even tho it was many years ago.



Wayne

 

[steved]

What to use for a fuel additive is my main concern, I've been using MMO and have read a lot of posts about it being "snake oil".



Just like everyone else, looking for a good additive for the ULSD that we have to pump in these old beasts.

The recent additive study (you can search for a link to it on this site) indicated that one locally obtained additive is Power Service, it wasn't great, but it was better than nothing. There were a couple mail-order additives that did well, but again, mail-order.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...el-owners/138969-what-best-fuel-additive.html



Look at post #24...



steved

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Hughs Racing Engines...

HRE looks like they've done their homework. As a big seller of Chrysler camshafts they were seeing cam lobes go flat as Zinc was being reduced.



This is the additive that won't work:



"... We are looking at oils and/or additives that can replace the zinc phosphate package. There are many named additives with cute names with z’s and x’s and numbers in their names that are worthless. One additive that is used by some additive manufacturers is lead. Yeah, it works, but it is very illegal if you haven’t heard. They fly under the radar until they have made enough money to move to Cancun. Another popular additive is moly. Moly comes in 2 different forms, but they are both called moly. The more common and popular is molybdenum disulfide; it is a dark gray color and is hard to get off of your hands or out of your clothes. This moly is a very good extreme pressure lubricant, but it falls out of suspension (won’t stay mixed in the oil) and the oil filter will take it out (or plug up). Some sources even complain that the moly disulfide is causing wear on some of the engine parts. "



This is the one that will:



http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail.asp?partID=12866

 

[Cattletrkr]

I talked to a guy at a demo derby a while ago. he ran his engine on straight dura lube. A few years before he had his oil pan knocked off somehow. finished the heat and ran the entire next heat w/o an oil pan. How much of that is BS I'll never know but he was convincing.