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Intermittant window failure

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Neutral Safety Switch not working... any ill effects...?

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I have a rear window that occasionally will not go up. This has happened three times now, and I'm worried that it might fail at a bad time. I am suspicious of the master switch in the driver's door. When it fails it will still go down from the driver's door and from the rear door switch. It just will not go up. Today, after repeated attempts from both switches I twisted the top of the master switch and it started working. I would like to verify the master switch as a likely culprit before I replace it. If it stops working completely I can check it with a meter, but right now it's working!
 
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Check the wiring loom in the boot at the pillar and rear door . Probably some broken wires. I soldered and heat shrink tubing haven't had a problem since.
 
I have seen the P-Bar scenario quite often. If you don't have the time to ck it out disconect the offending doors switch so it cant go down before you can fix it.
 
Mine wasn't the window issue it was the back door not locking . Wondering how many nights my truck wasn't locked. I do a walk around once a week now. That wire they used is a bunch of crap.
 
I'm pretty sure that a broken wire in the door jamb area would either stay broken or would lose contact when the door was opened or closed. So far I have not been able to associate the loss (or restoration) of window function to any door movement. We get the window to go back up simply by trying the window switches repeatedly until the window moves.

I think I can rule out a bad motor because the window still goes down when it will not go up. I can move the window down an inch and it will not go up. Over and over. This is true from the drivers door switch and from the switch mounted on the right rear door.

When it happened this afternoon I was stopped at a light with my daughter in the back seat. We both tried our switches over and over again and it wasn't until I actually twisted the top of my switch that we were able to get the window back up again. It worked for the rest of the day. We'll see what happens tomorrow.
 
I have a rear window that occasionally will not go up. This has happened three times now, and I'm worried that it might fail at a bad time. I am suspicious of the master switch in the driver's door. When it fails it will still go down from the driver's door and from the rear door switch. It just will not go up. Today, after repeated attempts from both switches I twisted the top of the master switch and it started working. I would like to verify the master switch as a likely culprit before I replace it. If it stops working completely I can check it with a meter, but right now it's working!



I have the same problem with the front passenger window. I've been told it's in the driver side switch assembly, but since I never ride in the passenger seat I haven't messed with it yet.
 
You need to pull the switch's out clean and make sure that they have a tight fit. I had to do this to my 03. I thank that road bumps and bang the door makes them get loose and a little rain will make this happen. == GOOD LUCK ==
 
I had an '04 come in with the same problem, ended up being the child lock switch was bad. If worked up and down several times, it would start working fine, but if it sits for any period of time, it quit allowing contact to the rear windows. My '03 recently started this same line of failures, and in tracing the power to the switches, I realized it was the same problem. Working the window Child lock out switch up and down allows the windows to start working... ... I've seen broken wires and poor contacts, but it usually only happens on the windows used the most. Broken wires are not intermittent, but bad switch contacts can start working at the wierdest times. Driver windows seem to be the worst, and since mine tends to fill up with dirt and then get rained on, I can see where it's got problems... . wait until you try to roll up the front passenger window and it rolls down the rear driver window:D WTH?!? (There was a pair of rubbed wires behind the door panel!)
 
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Thanks for all of your responses. It is working for now, but I will be sure to update if it happens again, particularly if I am able to pinpoint the problem.

HHhuntitall: is the child lock switch part of the master switch assembly? Without removing it from the door panel it appears to be. If so, I think you may be leading me in the direction of getting a new master switch assembly. Of course that may change once I price one out...

Sam
 
There was a thread on Cummins Forum, the master control in the driver's door panel, when removed and turned over, showed the printed circuit board had breaks in the solder.



I will try to locate and post. The fix was to simply jumper across the breaks with new solder.
 
the 06 works off of ohms. so... it takes one wire to roll a window up and down.
the computer does it with different signals and voltage.

its not like an old car or truck anymore!. .
so you outta check wires for both rear door. my broken one was for the dome, other had broken windows, and other the locks.
 
I'll have a look, but I do believe that you have given me the answer I was looking for! I'll pull the switch out and have a look at those solder joints, and I'll let y'all know what I find!

Thanks, JJPage! And JWH_03_Dodge for posting the pictures and solution that JJPage referenced.
 
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Just an FYI,

Between mself, my dad and my brotherwe've had 4 swithes go bad on our trucks over the years. Paying attention one day when it was raining a few years ago, while going down the road with the drivers window cracked a couple of inches watch wherethe water drips. Like it has eyes for the switch. All the water dripping directly on the switch causes the corrision/bad solder joints (IMHO). Installed vent visors on all 3 trucks to divert the water and haven't had a problem in 3-4 years. Doesn't happen on the pass side as that seat is empty most of the time. Check it out.

Makes sense to me unless the robot solder these boards just doesn't like the drivers side boards!
 
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