Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Is My Crank Position Sensor Bad?

[CumminsAholic]

Here's my story. I hadn't driven my truck in awhile and went to use it yesterday. I didn't have any batteries in it, so I put in 2 new optimas. It started great, drove it up to the house. The throttle cable was frozen so I figured I'd let it run for a few minutes to unfreeze it. When I went back out there the check engine light was on. I thought that was odd. Well, this morning I started it and the tach was bouncing all around, then it finally quit but the truck stayed running, so I shut it off and went to restart it... no go (it'd crank, but not fire). I waited a few minutes,tried it, and it started again but the tach was very erratic again. So I left it home and used another vehicle. It's never done this before and from what I can remember from reading on here it that it's probably a crankshaft position sensor. Am I correct? I don't think the batteries have anything to do with it. Where is the sensor at? I thought it was by the harmonic balancer, but I don't see anything there. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

TIA, Corey

Just thinking... the last thing I did to my truck before I drove it this time is wash it (about a month ago) . I wonder if water got into the pcm or ecm plug or another area and isn't making the right connection? Unlikely, but I'll look at it this weekend.

 

[Piston Slapper]

Crank Position Sensor Install

Tell tale sign of crank sensor failure is bouncing, erratic tach. Here is some instructions I found on the web somewhere. Also attached a pic of location. Good luck. If memory serves me right it runs around $35.



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Crank Sensor Install

Tools Needed:

1. 10mm 12 pt socket

2. 10mm 12 pt boxed end wrench

3. 3/8" ratchet

4. 10mm 6 pt socket



Part #:

Mopar : 05015488AA $67

Cummins: 4002066 $37



Instructions:

1. Remove 3 10mm 12pt bolts holding starter onto motor. See Figure #2. Two bolts are underneath the starter, one is above. The one above is best removed from underneath the truck and reaching above the starter. Also note that the bolt on the bottom of the starter closest to the outside of the truck is best taken off with the 10mm 12pt boxed end wrench.

There isn't enough room for a ratchet.

2. Pull starter out towards front of truck and let rest on front axle (4x4). Removing the red positive battery cable isn't necessary.

3. The Crank Position sensor is now easily accessed. See figure #3.

4. Remove the one bolt holding it on with 10mm 6 pt socket.

5. Unclip the old sensor and pull out of block. It has an o-ring on it, but it won't drip any oil.

6. Press in new sensor with end of a ratchet. Reconnect the plug.

7. Reinstall the 10mm 6pt bolt.

8. Reinstall the starter and tighten the 3 10mm 12pt bolts.

9. Crank engine and check for leaks.

 

[CumminsAholic]

SWEET!!

Thanks Barrington, that's what I was looking for. I'll call cummins north tomorrow, I duno if the parts dept. is open or not on saturdays, but I'll let everyone know if that was the problem after I get the new sensor installed. Thanks again,

Corey

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Don't forget to disconnect the batteries before doing anything!!!

 

[KEarnest]

check this out Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

 

[CumminsAholic]

I'll remember that Evan. I suppose with dual batteries you could almost weld with the positive post on the starter huh? KEarnest, thanks for the additional info. I'll get it put in this week and let everyone know if that was the problem. I'm pretty sure it is.

 

[mike,j]

must be crank sensor day

went to groom the trails here today in u. p. mich and the truck quit. . it missed alittle and i thought i better get some fuel additive in it . . it was -20 below today and for the past several days and i was about 20 miles from the fuel station. . it died ... call tow truck and sent it to the dealer... tow truck driver said he picked up 5 deisels this week with gelled fuel. . dealer called this afternoon and said it was the crank sensor170. 00 with labor... and maybe 2 days before its in... 80,000 miles and replaced the fuel pump,speedo sensor,brake switch and trans reprogramed

 

[CumminsAholic]

$170... Ouch The sensor from Cummins is between $35 and $40. It'll probably take me a total of 20 min to change the sensor and that's taking my time. I had to take it apart tonight, Cummins wasn't sure which sensor it was so I needed the part # to make sure they sent the right one. Usually they're really good, but who knows I may have gotten a new guy.

Corey

P. S. How much snow is there in the U. P. ? There's nothing here and that's only a couple hours away, maybe I'll have to take a trip and go snowmobiling over there.

 

[jthomp2]

don't change YET!

your problem description EXACTLY matches mine and it was CPS BUT, I took it to dealer and told them what I suspected. I got a VERY pleasant surprise! No charge for replacement. I had 41000 miles at the time and do not have extended warranty. (Y2K 4*4)

This is suppose to be covered under a Federally Mandated EMISSIONS Warranty. I would pursue that angle before spending the money and time. They kept the truck for 1 day.

 

[Ncostello]

Interesting... I took mine (CKP bad) to Dodge and Cummins with 75000 miles and they told me No Way Is That Under Warranty. It was declared a "non internal engine component". However I argued it was "internal" since the majority was "inside" the engine. Plus I argued the emissions warranty side of it but I was denied. Oh well... $45 and half hour I was happy again. Some dealers are good... some aren't I suppose. Good Luck.

 

[mike,j]

well my u. p. deisel is still in the dealer,they said parts truck was delayed in detroit... but promised it in the a. m... i'll try the emmision side of the warrenty. . it might work... thanks

 

[CumminsAholic]

That was the problem. Sensor was $50. 70 shipped to my door. Took under half an hour to change it. Thanks for the info on where it was at and how to change it. The new part # is 4002066. That's for a 98. 5 I dunno what other years.

Corey

 

[CLorox]

Dang starter..

Doing the CKP myself today... I have uttered way to many curse words trying to loosen those 3 12 point 10mm mounting bolts. . Trying small to large ratchet... Man they are on there good. . I just took a break and tossed some WD40 up on the bolts and washed my hands of the project for a half hour or so. .



Any tricks to getting these things off!? My hands are killing me trying to break em free...



-Adam

 

[CLorox]

Glad I took a breather

Wow nevermind I got it Had to cut a cheater bar to fit in the tight quarters... A trip to home depot for a closed end 12pt wrench and I was golden. .



I feel like a million bucks... . maybe too good for only loosening three bolts *grin*





-Adam

 

[CumminsAholic]

Push hard goes easy

That's the hardest part. Those things are on there TIGHT. I used a wrench and where I could I hooked the box end of another wrench on the open end and used it for more leverage. Push hard goes easy.

Corey

 

[DKupfrian]

I wanted to follow up on the directions from above with a couple more hints in bold. Having done this once, I could do it faster a second time. I spent the most time trying to take out the top starter bolt. I highly recommend you start with this bolt after you disconnect the battery. (If you can't get this one out, you cannot continue and the rest are easy compare to this one. Everyone talks of how fast this was. I actually timed it so I could brag. It took me 1 hour and 20 minutes! In my defense, it was drizzling, getting dark, I had to hold a flashlight, I didn't throughly read these instructions, and I had no one to pass me my beer.



Crank Sensor Install

Tools Needed:

1. 10mm 12 pt socket

2. 10mm 12 pt boxed end wrench Having more than one length here may help. My box end was short and I had to double up two wrenches to break the started bolts free. An extra long box end may make this easier.

3. 3/8" ratchet

4. 10mm 6 pt socket

5. 1/2 inch wrench for disconnecting batt

6. 2 large flat head screw drivers to help pry the leads off battery. Mine were cranked down so hard from the factory the battery post were out of round!

7. pliers to pull out old sensor.



Part #:

Mopar : 05015488AA $67 I was quoted $63 but charged $52 when I picked it up? Not complaining

Cummins: 4002066 $37



Instructions:

Before starting disconnect the battery. The starter you will be working on is live if you don't.

1. Remove 3 10mm 12pt bolts holding starter onto motor. See Figure #2. Two bolts are underneath the starter, one is above. The one above is best removed from underneath the truck and reaching above the starter. I disagree, I place the first 12 point wrench on the top bolt and could not get the leverage to break it free with double wrench the front driveshaft always seems to be where I wanted my arm. I found it easy to place the second of a double wrench setup from above. Also note that the bolt on the bottom of the starter closest to the outside of the truck is best taken off with the 10mm 12pt boxed end wrench.

There isn't enough room for a ratchet.

2. Pull starter out towards front of truck and let rest on front axle (4x4). Removing the red positive battery cable isn't necessary.

3. The Crank Position sensor is now easily accessed. See figure #3.

4. Remove the one bolt holding it on with 10mm 6 pt socket.

5. Unclip the old sensor and pull out of block. It has an o-ring on it, but it won't drip any oil. This can be removed with the oil dipstick tub in place. It is a tight fitting piece with the o-ring. I had to grab it with pliers and rotate it back and forth as I pulled it out.

6. Press in new sensor with end of a ratchet. Reconnect the plug.

7. Reinstall the 10mm 6pt bolt.

8. Reinstall the starter and tighten the 3 10mm 12pt bolts.

9. Crank engine and check for oil leaks.

 

[DKupfrian]

Another pic

 

[Jerry J]

fixed and running

Thanks to all the great info on this site I replaced my crank sensor in the same amount of time most others did and all is well. Not at all a hard job. Cost was $58 for Dodge Dealer, sounds like Cummins is cheaper but still not complaints, had I taken it to the dealer he would have made a lot more.

 

[CumminsAholic]

Glad you figured out the problem. This site has saved me many $$. Also has cost me many If ya know what I mean.

Corey

 

[krs]

Borrow or buy enough extensions the top starter bolt is a breeze using an 18" breaker bar working from the top and standing up. i've got 12", 24" and a 36" extensions. A good thing is to wrap the joints with a little duct tape to make it all like one LONG extension.