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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Is my fuel level gauge controlled by computer?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) De-rating an ISB Cummins

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Will dodge wake up

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When my fuel level gauge shows 1/4 tank left, I have only about 1 gallon of fuel left in the tank and the low fuel indicator light never comes on. Dont' ask me how I know this. Is this reading adjustable by software or is the gauge a mechanical device that would require dropping the tank to adjust it? I would like to have it be as accurate as possible. I don't usually let it get below half a tank and only now after a year and a half with this truck found out it is off. Thanks for any info.
 
I replaced my sender in a 96 1/2 ton Ram. If I had to guess I would say that it is nothing more than an electrical gauge. I would find it hard to belive that it is hooked up to a computer. (if I am wrong I'm sure someone will correct me)



In my 95 CTD my gauge is all over the place once I drop below 3/4 of a tank. With that said, it is probably your sender giving you false readings.
 
Allnew2Me said:
When my fuel level gauge shows 1/4 tank left, I have only about 1 gallon of fuel left in the tank and the low fuel indicator light never comes on. Dont' ask me how I know this. Is this reading adjustable by software or is the gauge a mechanical device that would require dropping the tank to adjust it? I would like to have it be as accurate as possible. I don't usually let it get below half a tank and only now after a year and a half with this truck found out it is off. Thanks for any info.

I just had my fuel tank module out for a mod. due to a FASS installation. The fuel gauge sending unit is mounted to this module. According to my service manual, the float,variable resistor track sends electrical signals to the PCM. Then the PCM transmits the data across the CCD bus circuits to the instrument panel. More than likely its your fuel tank module sending unit bad. The best access without dropping your tank is to lift the bed. I found out how to do it from a fellow forum member. There are 8 bolts. take the foward 6 bolts out, loosen the aft most on each side, disconnect the filler on the fender & the ground strap on the right side. Put a floor jack with a 4x4 post approximately 27" (varies with the heigth of your truck) under the center forward reinforced member of the bed & jack as high as you can. It will clear the top of the tank to remove the fuel module. You should have at least 1/2 tank or less fuel. There is a recent post on the 2nd gen. engine forum under sending unit that lists a sending unit for around $35. Let me know if you need any more info.
 
Thanks to all for the help. Renoram, I was afraid of that. I do have an extended warraty that will cover the fix if that is indeed what it is, but I would rather not let the dealer mess with my truck. I actually called them first and nobody seemed to know what might be the problem so I may end up doing it myself. I was hoping a DRB scan tool could adjust the reading on the gauge to match the fuel in the tank.
 
I now have a problem with my fuel gauge also. All was fine until I had my transmission replaced. After the trans was installed I have a constant shorting of my running lights which I have yet to track down AND my fuel gauge is off. Normally I could go about 50 miles once the needle hit the E but going home one day after the trans was changed my fuel pressure dropped to zero at an eigth of a tank, imagine my suprise. . I dont know if the wires run together or not but I'm assuming they pinched or crossed something on my trans install.
 
Look for a pinched or scuffed place in the cable that runs from the connectors on the fire wall on the driver's side to connectors near the forward driver's side body pad and to the rear from there. All that stuff is in that cable. It could have been damaged by the transmission work.
 
your sender is hooked directly to the guage. It is 9 ohms full, 97 ohms empty. There are references in the TDR to rebuilding the POS fuel sender. Mine just died, so here I go with another mod.



Good Luck



John Thomas
 
Seems the fuel sender is a relatively common repair or breakdown. I replaced my first one at about 55k. My second one went out at around 100k. I have been living with it for the last 80k broken. After I put my Kore suspension on it magically fixed itself and was working properly. Now it is out again a couple months later. I just need to dive in and fix it. If you search you will find a repair procedure that will permanently fix the problem. Something to do with the slide screws or something like that if I recall. Just been to lazy to fix it. Been telling myself I will wait to fix it until I get my larger tank installed which I havent even ordered yet but been thinking about for a couple years now. Talk about procrastination.
 
I fixed my sending unit. It worked very smooth with no bad places on the gauge indication. However, it was off about 1/4 tank. I replaced it.
 
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