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Its time for bigger turbo & injectors on '06

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Small Trans leak

Starting/cranking longer than normal

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Well I have had truck since new, its payed off... been payed off, so have money to spend. I have prepared the truck for bigger turbo & injectors. Wanting to do injectors in fear of stockers failing, so looking for something to gain better mileage. 50hp or so is fine. Wanting to get bigger turbo mainly to spice things up with having the same truck for almost 7 years. Same thing as asking the wife to put on a wig and talk with accent after been married awhile. I do tow from time to time and gross up to about 28,000 G. V. W. R. although its no more then 15 miles at a time and on Farm to Market roads... the truck does fine now no faster then I go.



So any suggestions? I have been reading posts for a couple hours now and only thing I have come to is a BD Killer B2. And I can't back up why I have came to that conclusion, so any help would be appreciated. I am not opposed to getting a better manifold either if necessary.



Thanks in advance for suggestions



Justin
 
When you compared new truck parts to slappin a wig on the wife and pretending she was someone else, nobody wanted to incriminate themselves :-laf :-laf

Hang in there JBlackwell someone will reply. I have zero experience with the 3rd gens although I will say this... At least as far as the 2nd gens go, you need to get closer to the 100 hp injectors and on up before you will really be able to take advantage of a larger turbo. Anything under 80 - 100 horse (above stock) injectors and the factory turbo does pretty good. Like I said though, Im not at all familiar with the 3rd gens. Good luck with spending your money and finding "the right haircolor" :D

JR
 
I really am skeptical about larger than stock injectors attaining better mileage, just has not been my experience, however lots of folks will disagree and claim slightly better mileage with 50hp tips. If I was doing 50's, I believe I would go with Dynomite Diesels product, are you doing complete injectors or just tips? Another option would be the new injectors Source Automotive is offering, Big Bang Injectors, stage one, which if I ever need to change out my F1. 5's, I'll use these(product of Marco/Smarty).



Turbo's... . Killer B would work, also a 62 compressor / 65 or 71 turbine / 12 or 14 cm housing(not sure you can get a 71 turbine into a 12cm housing), I ran a 62/71/14 with both stock injectors and my F1. 5's, very nice turbo, a great towing charger. If you want to spend a bit more, you can upgrade to a Garrett ball bearing, water cooled unit, AH64ID a member here, has had exceptional performance with his.



I would absolutely upgrade to a second gen exhaust manifold with the center dump, will require some downpipe tweaking, but much better flow. Let us know what you decide. Jess
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I have spent most of my time searching for turbos. I keep coming back to a HTB2/62 w/ 13cm housing. Nothing in stone yet though. It seems I may end up spending more time searching for the right injectors. I haven't figured out yet if it is worth replacing the entire injector or just get the tips, but if tips only i what I end up with I want the stock bodys tested if possible for hidden wear. I will have to look more into the 2nd gen manifold. I haven't caught a post with that yet. Thanks for the tip.
I have more experience playing with a 12v, so this 3rd gen I need to study more on. A 12v was easy for me, Piers modified HX40, 4" downpipe, 4k governor kit, #10 plate, 370 marine injectors and all of that was fairly easy to install except for those dang governor springs. Thanks for the suggestions. Will continue to do some more searches here.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I have spent most of my time searching for turbos. I keep coming back to a HTB2/62 w/ 13cm housing. Nothing in stone yet though. It seems I may end up spending more time searching for the right injectors. I haven't figured out yet if it is worth replacing the entire injector or just get the tips, but if tips only i what I end up with I want the stock bodys tested if possible for hidden wear. I will have to look more into the 2nd gen manifold. I haven't caught a post with that yet. Thanks for the tip.

I have more experience playing with a 12v, so this 3rd gen I need to study more on. A 12v was easy for me, Piers modified HX40, 4" downpipe, 4k governor kit, #10 plate, 370 marine injectors and all of that was fairly easy to install except for those dang governor springs. Thanks for the suggestions. Will continue to do some more searches here.



If my memory serves me right to take advantage of some fuel savings the 50hp tips work best when the stock cam is replaced with an aftermarket eliminating the internal egr. I could be wrong its been a while.
 
On my '05 I has a fass, ATS manifold, HTT 62/13 SS turbo, Smart PoD and it dyno'd at 450hp. I kept the parts when I sold it for my '07 but haven't put them on yet. Injectors and cam would be nice, i've heard the combination really help mileage.
 
If my memory serves me right to take advantage of some fuel savings the 50hp tips work best when the stock cam is replaced with an aftermarket eliminating the internal egr. I could be wrong its been a while.



If you do a cam swap does that get rid of the immediate black oil situation when you change the oil? I know the internal egr is the culprit of that, but I have never read enough detail about a cam swap. Is it even worth the money vs. mileage gains? If not I'd rather not go into the motor.
 
Everything I've read is that it helps with actual soot content but you still get black oil quickly. It seems that is primarily due to the 3rd injection event.
 
I am learning that the soot in the oil is more related to piston design, and possibly the pilot injection event. The 4 components that make up the in-cylinder EGR are cam/turbo/timing/pistons. I have replaced the cam and turbo, and also run modified timing with Smarty UDC (which also disables the 3rd event). The only thing I have left on my truck are the pistons. Last month I did 3 oil changes, and 2 flushes. My oil was 100% clear for about 50 miles (which is not normal for the 04. 5-07 after a change), and then it went black again with a bypass and 15um full flow. That means it's the pistons, and possibly some fuel combusting on the cylinder walls with the pilot. As far as UOA I really didn't see a drop with the cam in soot content.

Okay onto the OP's question. I would look at some 20% (50hp) nozzles and a Garrett Stage 2 GT3782R. The cam is GREAT and I would do the swap again, but bang for buck it's lower. I like the Garrett because it spools like stock, but runs a lot lower backpressure (. 8:1 vs 2:1). The Garrett also puts out cooler air, and less cruise boost, both of which help power/economy.
 
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