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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Jacob's 1997 KDP Repair

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) v10 swap.

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My son Jacob, got his first vehicle, a 1997 3500 that got hit with the KDP. I knew the truck's last two years history and he bought it with his summer job money and we are tackling it together as a project. We picked it up Saturday and by 4PM Sunday we had the front case cover off and saw the damage.



We are looking forward to putting this neat 1997 back in service and teach my son and ME a lot about these fantastic 12V Cummins. I have never done this job before so the suprizes will be a plenty! We will learn pump timing, cam R&R, whatever oil pan issues are related to this job. But this is one I'm looking forward to the day this 12V rattles back to life. It is the truck that got me started on diesels.



We will likely need some expert advice as we get farther into the job. We will be pulling the cam and replacing the gear case, lot's to do.



1997 3500 Extended cab, NV4500, Banks Power Pack, 277 RWHP 793 RWTQ 10/05 Mustang Dyno.
 
Talk about some quality bonding time:D I wounder who is more excited about going and workin gon it?



keep sending the pics.
 
We are both having a great time.

I've been wrenching for quite a while on things with spark plugs, got a lot to learn about compression ignition basics.



If you put in a cam, do you have to do the tappets at the same time? And who's cam and what part number is a good upgrade and what does it do for you? Also need to learn about recommended pump timing. We can get the manual and tools to set it up. Truck has 160,000 on it.



Who has a good cam? This is not a sled puller, only 2WD.



I'm a little uncertain about the oil pan to gear case gasket seal, heard that dropping the pan on a 2WD is not possible in the frame, so that makes things challenging.



Next we need to get Jake signed up as a TDR member, he saw his first Dyno last week, got to see an 800HP+ truck.



This is Jake, I've also been having a good time and can't wait to get it running, I also ruined a good shirt and the gears look pretty good so far, gots lots to learn.
 
Hey Gary and Jake! great looking truck! Excited for both of you!



Don't have to do the tappets with a cam swap. Pull the pushrods, replace with long wooden dowels, rubber band them in pairs. I'll give you more detail soon.



gotta run... on-call w/ work.
 
I got my cam from Pier's Diesel. It came with new tappets. No extra power, but EGTs are lower and gained 1-2 mpg, both towing and empty. 15 to 16 degrees advance seems to be the norm for a stock head gasket. You don't need to pull the pan, but if I recall, black RTV will be needed.
 
Next week, the cam gets pulled.

Injection pump, transfer pump, rockers and pushrods all came out this weekend. That P7100 is the size of a Kubota engine for a small tractor! Got the TDC pin loosened up and hit TDC. The injection pump timing pin went right in, no problem. I have not been happy with the dowel rod fit to the tappets that needs some enlightenment, tried MULTIPLE shapes and sizes, just ain't been right yet. Any suggestions? I think having an old tappet to help size them with would be helpful. First batch of parts due in this week. Jake got to do some of the injection lines, fuel lines and drained the oil, continued cleaning the engine, oil makes a mess! So far Jake hasn't broken anything, (yet) he is still learning what Mechanic's Hands are.
 
Forrest,



I work for Perfection Clutch, ZOOM is the performance division of Perfection Clutch. We are a part of the Marmon Corporation.



You can learn more at our website.
 
When changing a cam use 1/2" wooden dowels to hold up the tappets. They will have to be shaved down ( use course sand paper on the end about half an inch up the dowels ) to fit into the tappets. Then rubber band each pair together. This will hold up the dowels and keep them from falling down until the cam is out. I recommend the PDR cam and as stated it comes with new tappets ( I believe that new tappets should always be used with a new cam ) You can buy a "new" or "reground" cam from them. http://pdrdiesel.com/ I will be ordering one myself this winter. Shadrach
 
Shadrach,



I tried the dowels for quite a while, same method as you describe, I just didn't hit on the right combination. I will try again this weekend.



Thanks.
 
As of Friday evening.

Cam finally came out, it can test your patience, needs to be guided very carefully. Holding the tappets up is a lot easier after a TDR friend (Anthony Cook) gives you an old tappet as a guide to make the dowel rods with. We are getting an early start today, could be really busy, my daughters boyfriend wants to install a clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder in his '88 Nissan pickup, slipping real bad.



I'll try pictures later, didn't work this AM.
 
Big Weekend for PROGRESS!

What a wrenching of a weekend. New gear case, cam went back in a lot easier that it came out. I made a cam handle and attached it to the gear, gave me some leverage to handle the cam with as I guided it in, lots of 105 smeared all over it. Back where they belong: P7100, transfer pump, pushrods, rockers, adjusted valves, front cover and new crank seal, transfer pump, valve covers, damper, pile of parts on shelf getting smaller.



Jake did 1/2 of the valves, he did good for a first time. Hope I did it right too!



We also had a lot of help from some neighbors to help put the clutch in the 1988 Nissan, it was slipping so bad, Dylan had to relearn how to drive it! Minor snag getting it bled, what's new!
 
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Yes, I did make a KDP Tab.

One of the last things was fabricating a KDP keeper tab. This would be an easy item to overlook in the mass of parts on the workbench.



When I installed the crank oil seal, it was marked INSTALL DRY, the manual mirrored this info. Anybody know why these go on dry?



Great way to learn the A->B->C->D of the fuel system flow. I had no idea that these trucks have a fuel heater in the transfer pump group.
 
GC;

That seal has a teflon coating on it, and this trasnsferes to the crank.

Hense-- no lub. Good way to bond with the son. Good job.

Marv.
 
It's AAALLLIIIVVVEEE!

Just before noon today, the air was finally purged out of the P7100 and delivered the precise dose of #2 necessary to fire that grand 12V off and it came back to life! Smiles a plenty! Sounds like a nice running 12V should, crisp throttle response, farm grade clatter, no oil leaks seen yet, nothing but favorable results KNOCK ON A BIG PIECE OF WOOD!



Big thanks to AndyMan, Anthony Cook and Josh Watson for their advice and help securing some of the parts and knowledge. Sure is nice to talk to someone who already has the merit badge.



One of the tricks for a first timer is the dowel rods, maybe these pictures will help someone else. I used a 1/2" oak dowel rod 12" long except for the last 4 valves. The top picture shows the dowel just entering the tappet, the next one shows it securely in place. The tappet (Thanks Anthony) has a . 470" by about 1/2" deep hole in it. I cut a slot in the rod and used a file to put small flats on it where the saw cuts came out of the rod to reduce it from . 5" to less than . 47" then a slight leading edge radius, then tap it in, test the pull and repeat, tied up with good rubber bands, use the pipe flange handle (see earlier picture) to control cam, its heavy and clumsy to handle.



Now we just have some details and lots of cleanup then we'll see whats next. Might have to do some exhaust work, #1 has a leak at the gasket, tightened it up, we'll see.



Yes, I'd do it again.
 
LOTS of hard work - but the agony will be quickly replaced by the happiness and satisfaction of accomplishment - GREAT JOB and pics - thanks! Oo. :)
 
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