Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Jonsing for a KDP jig.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Ideas for fuel check valve.

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission just wondering

Status
Not open for further replies.
Howdy brethern,



I need to come up with a KDP jig so I can get my 97 nuetered before a mishap -- like when I head for AK next month. :eek:



Any contact info would be appreciated.



TIA OTD
 
get hold of harold. -- email address removed -- or 208 459-7849. harold makes these jigs and the whole kit for tdr members at a reasonable cost. he also makes the tab kits
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I skipped the jig. Pulled the cover instead. Glad I did. Some of the case bolts, on the inside, were loose. Didn't use a tab either. I reseated the KDP and peened the hole with a small punch so it can't come out.
 
bmoeller,





your 97 had no locktite on the case bolts? i realize the 96 was hit and miss with the locktite and earlier years had no locktite but thought 97s were locktited.
 
I thought there were several jigs that sort of floated around and mailed from spot to spot for folks to use. I saw Harold's jig in the last issue, or was it #48?, with his other products. I'll give him a call. I see he is over the line somewhere in ID.



Last night I also saw an article in #48 on using a PTO cable in place of the Fuel Shutoff Selenoid. How timely. If Lithia bulks on fixing the FSS I'll do that fix too. It will be my luck that because the FSS doesn't do it all the time, only sometimes after a long run, Lithia with say "looks fine to us". Anyway they have a few things they agreed to fix before so it will be worth the trip north. Plus I can stop by Sierra Trading Post for the labor day sale, see family in Billings, see the wife in BZ, pick up my tin coat in BZ, and cruise home all to the tune of a purring 12v. After the 3Gen it's almost a testosterone buzz to once again listen to the 12v purr :-laf



bmoeller, you do things the right way. Unfortunately I'm such a scofflaw that I was going for the jig fix because it is faster, easier, and it seems to have worked okay for a bunch of folks. When was the build date on your truck? Maybe I got lucky or maybe I'll be reciting the "For want of a nail the horse was lost... . etc. " poem one of these days. :rolleyes:
 
Not sure of the closest one too you but I think member MLee is the rocky mountain area jig keeper. (the free one to use)
 
Thanks Barry,



I contacted Harold today and he was asking $99. 99 for his kit. I thought it would be less expensive. He said it will do 10 rigs - but I only have one :( . So if there were ten folks that need to RIP the KDP that would be... . lets see..... $99. 99/10=..... well about $10 apiece, anyways.



For $100 I think I'd do the KDP tab instead.



I'll try to hunt MLee down first.
 
Ol'TrailDog said:
bmoeller, you do things the right way. Unfortunately I'm such a scofflaw that I was going for the jig fix because it is faster, easier, and it seems to have worked okay for a bunch of folks. When was the build date on your truck? Maybe I got lucky or maybe I'll be reciting the "For want of a nail the horse was lost... . etc. " poem one of these days. :rolleyes:



I try to do it right the first time. Occasionally, I will rig things up for a while, 'til I have more time to do it right. Either that, or I will postpone fixiing a problem, if it is safe to do so.



My truck was built 5/97, in Mexico.
 
Yep, think you are right bmoeller. The more I read about this the more sense it is to either peen or tab the KDP, re-torque the cap screws, and replace the belt at the same time. Anyone say peace of mind. ;)
 
I though about the tab. Just one more thing to work loose and the bolt falling out. Have heard of that happening. Probably not often though. I'm cheap sometimes, too. LOL Already have a hammer and punch, so peening is free. :D LOL
 
Last edited:
OTD,



with harolds kit ya get more than just the tabs or jig. the fan wrenchs come in the kit, most of all ya need cept the drill. the tab kit also comes w/ wrenches and crankshft seal which is 30 some bucks by itself



if ya want ONLY the jig and set screws it is much cheaper



i had a pic of the whole thing on my old cmptr or id post pic



harold got gene arnolds kdp killed today. pin had moved out a bit but bolts were tight. gene has a 96 with almost 130,00 mi. all the bolts had some sort of brown locktite/thread sealer on em. harold tabbed it but the jig fix wldve been good enuff. at least gene doesnt have to worry bout the bolts



thinkin that some have pulled the bolts and expect a good amnt of red locktite and dont look close enuff and notice the brown thred sealer. apparantly cummins is pretty skimpy with the use of it
 
b moeller,



tab is only a couple bucks from harold or thru cummins. if ya get bolt tight and use locktite it is goin nowhere. taint nuttin tryin to PUSH the pin out of that hole
 
Repost from Gene's thread:

I talked to Harold yesterday about his jig kit. He was asking $99. 99 for it. In fact, you folks could have been out in the shop fixing your truck when I called. Probably chuckling about getting the sucker from WY to cover the beer/chips expenses, right? Mentioned that I got his number from muddymess's reply to my KDP thread. Whew--can't believe the half of what he said about ol' muddy. Oh well, with friends like that.....



Anyway decided to do the tab instead. That way I can redo the cap screws and the belt. I would be doing it right now but I couldn't get the front seal at NAPA. They suggested Dodge. I suggested in a pig's arse too--I would go to Rocky Mtn. Cummins first. So since I will be in Billings next weekend I'll pick up the parts then. Have you guys been replacing or reusing the cover gasket or RTVing?



Unless, folks have successfully re-used the old seal. OUCH... . yes I know better. But I had to ask, since I have the time and really want to do the KDP fix this weekend. Times in short supply before I head for AK.



Thanks muddymess for the info. In addition to the questions above, I was wondering if the "tabbers" use a longer cap screw? I wouldn't think the tab would add much, although I think the TST kit has a slightly longer bolt. You mentioned Cummins has the tab. Since I'll have to be in Billings Labor Day weekend perhaps I can pick it all up there and save shipping.



One further question, which I'm sure is so obvious that others would have done it before. Why not just remove the dowel? After engine assembly, does it serve any purpose?
 
otd,,,,,,,,,,,,,



i posted on genes thread



as to removal,,,,,,,,,,,,easier to just push the pin back in flush if it is slightly out than to worry bout removal. a tab installation no big deal. tab it and it taint goin no where. the tab isnt being forced out from behind anyway. no hydraulic pressure agin it.



keep us posted with details of your surgery :)
 
muddymess said:
b moeller,



tab is only a couple bucks from harold or thru cummins. if ya get bolt tight and use locktite it is goin nowhere. taint nuttin tryin to PUSH the pin out of that hole



I know. ;)
 
Ol'TrailDog said:
One further question, which I'm sure is so obvious that others would have done it before. Why not just remove the dowel? After engine assembly, does it serve any purpose?



Yes, it is there for a reason. It keeps the case aligned. The pump puts plenty of pull on it. If the case moved, it would put things out of wack.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top