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Jumper Cables

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I got mine for $30 at Fleet Farm. They are 20 ft. long, 4 guage wire, big, and they never get warm from being overloaded, and i jump dozers in the winter. They also come with a case. It fits under the back seat nice and tight.

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1998 2500, 12 valves, SLT, auto, 3. 54, 285/75-16, TST 230/605, t/c switch, DiPricol EGT/boost guages,K&N,camper special, 65,000 miles(2/01),
12 ton goosneck!
'01 Polaris EDGE-X 600
 
What is the name on those cables? That sounds like the set that I want. Who knows I may need to start a dozer. . hehe

Thanks
Rick

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RICK
97 2500,CC,5 SPEED, 3. 54 Limited Slip,Psychotty System,K&N, Pre-Turbo ISSPRO 3" Pyrometer & Boost Guage,Silencer Ring Removed
12,000 RBW 5th Wheel Hitch,25' Excel 5th Wheel,Rancho RSX17000 Shocks,Amsoil Dealer,Straight Piped
 
Hop to www.awdirect.com and look at the plug in ones that they sell. They're much heavier than we'll ever need and always ready to go. I have mine terminated at the air duct in the front bumper. I have a 20 foot plug in jumper and the best thing is you'll only have to open the hood the time you install the female end of the plug's wires to your battery. I paid under a hundred bucks for the kit and installed it in about 30 mins in the driveway.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. 15. 50@97mph on Goodyear All-Terrain tires.
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Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission. 11. 54@115mph
 
The plug in jumpers Chris speaks of are a great thing if you are always jumping to/from your Dodge. Jumpers with clamps on both ends are more versatile though. Expect to pay at least $75 for a set of good ones. I have found #4 wire is too small for some jumps, #1 or 0 is better.
 
They are Fleet Farm brand Big-Max cables. Theres a pic of a dog on the case. They work well. I would also like to have the connections they speak of... . $$$$.
Good enough for the girls I date.
 
I bought a nice 25 ft. long set from JC Whitney. I have another set that I made from welding cable. Both work real good. I wouldn't buy anything shorter than 20 ft. Even 20 ft. might be a little tight if you were to jump a QC long bed back to front.
 
I need to get a set of jumper cables, so that I will have a set to either leave in the truck or in the trailer. I want a set that would be considered overkill for what I would need to do. What brands should I look at?

Rick

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RICK
97 2500,CC,5 SPEED, 3. 54 Limited Slip,Psychotty System,K&N, Pre-Turbo ISSPRO 3" Pyrometer & Boost Guage,Silencer Ring Removed
12,000 RBW 5th Wheel Hitch,25' Excel 5th Wheel,Rancho RSX17000 Shocks,Amsoil Dealer,Straight Piped
 
Check military/construction surplus stores.
The set that I keep in my truck are approx. 20 feet long, seem to be made from welding-sized cable, large strong alligator ends. I can pull up behind another vehicle and the cables will reach the battery in the other vehicle. (No nose to nose jump starts) Much safer!

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Ed Anderson
99 3500,QC,Auto,4. 10,Everthing 'cept leather,stock until warranty runs out.
'76 H-D FLH, '98 FLHTCUI
 
I second the plug in style from AWdirect. much safer than gator clamps. Not to mention it saves your terminals from looking like a dog chew toy.

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98. 5' Emerald Green 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC 285-75-16's on Alcoa's. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), AMSOIL air filter.
 
A solution that I have made up (Even though have not installed them again on my Diesel why I don't know) for the problem of not being versatile is most of the companies that make the plug-in style cables use a Anderson style connector, what I did was made a 2' alligator clip that plugs into the other end of the Anderson connector so now you can use it as the original plug in style or use it as a traditional style. This also makes that final connection safer because you can put the clips on both batteries and then just plug in the connector. Just an idea.

>Edit> For those that are not familliar with the Anderson Power products here is a pic #ad

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TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed. Line-X bed-liner. DTT's TC & VB, Pac Brake, Power Edge, Edge EZ, Grover Air Horns

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.
http://www.ramtaz.com

Add on's to come: any other Ram Runner required modifications...

[This message has been edited by MCrossley (edited 03-22-2001). ]
 
I put a pic above for those who are unfamilliar with the Anderson Products

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TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed. Line-X bed-liner. DTT's TC & VB, Pac Brake, Power Edge, Edge EZ, Grover Air Horns

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.

http://www.ramtaz.com

Add on's to come: any other Ram Runner required modifications...
 
guys go easy on harvey, all he has to do is GO TO aw direct as he lives in visalia and he can look at all the cool jumper cables and choose from names like Associated and safe T connect, he lives in their yard
B
 
Hey fellers,I dont know what a anderson clip is but another option for those of you jumping alot of equiptment is to get a set of welders connections,the male female type deals and make up 2 pigtails that are about 2 feet long with a connection to mount permanently to your battery posts, then run the welder connections say out the holes in the bumper with just enough length to hook up your cables to. then put the other half of the welders connection on your jumper cables, so when you need to jump a rig you simply hook up your cables to the provided welders connections and on the other end of the cables you have clamps or gattor clamps , this system is nice because you dont have to lift your hood or mar up your termanals and there is less chance of crossing your positive and negative posts,I saw this set up on a wrecker and it looked good,hope this makes sence #ad
just a thought Kevin

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2001 eth dee,qc,lwb,3. 55,camper and tow pkg,driftwood,cummins e-brake,jardine 4" exhaust,dz alum checker run boards,bed rail,tailgate protector,better built alum checker toolbox with home made fuel tank under box,"CUMN" licence plates and captain vol fire dept plate too
 
Originally posted by Whitmore:
Hey fellers,I dont know what a anderson clip is but another option for those of you jumping alot of equiptment is to get a set of welders connections,the male female type deals and make up 2 pigtails that are about 2 feet long with a connection to mount permanently to your battery posts, then run the welder connections say out the holes in the bumper with just enough length to hook up your cables to. then put the other half of the welders connection on your jumper cables, so when you need to jump a rig you simply hook up your cables to the provided welders connections and on the other end of the cables you have clamps or gattor clamps , this system is nice because you dont have to lift your hood or mar up your termanals and there is less chance of crossing your positive and negative posts,I saw this set up on a wrecker and it looked good,hope this makes sence #ad
just a thought Kevin


ya mean like this? #ad

rich's cables


[This message has been edited by rich m (edited 03-23-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by rich m (edited 03-23-2001). ]
 
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I made my own to start irrigation engines on 12 and 24 volts. I use the connector pictured above to power my winch and personally am not that impressed. The connectors I use are brass. One thing I have learned is the shorter the better, granted if they won't reach then they are useless. I used 00 welding lead with two heavy gator clamps and a male brass plug in style that I don't currently have a name for, everyone around here uses them. My ram has the female end and I split the pos cable from the pass battery and ran a seperate ground from the pass battery accross the radiator and put a connection in the middle for crossing to make the 24 volts. My cables are around 15' long and I can crank anything I hook to. One thing that I have found to aid in boosting larger vehicles is to connect the cables, then use something to rev the engine to 1800 rpms and give it a little time. I cranked a 3406B cat early morn 25 deg after the driver left his lights on for 20 hrs. The batts were completely dead, took 15 min with cables hooked up and spun it over.
Hope this helps.
Brant

p. s. email if interested in the connectors. .
 
Do they make a blank plug to put in the Anderson style connector to protect the terminals when you're not using it?

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'99 2500 4x4 long bed quad cab auto with sport package.
My Toys
 
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