Jumpin Getrags !

[WJune]

I couldn't resist, had to buy another W350, problem is already have 2 ctd with sick trans. 230K on this one owner truck, 3 Getrags in 1st 100k ! This trans is a virgin ( never had a wrench on drain plug. ) I drained silver oil out, not bad concidering, appears to be aluminum, looked in drivers side pto opening and pried on gears, looks decent. Replaced broke off shift lever, they had a 3/4 in water pipe flopping around for shifting ! They said it jumped outa 3rd or 4th gear ? Not running, a slight finger presure pops it out of 3,4, where as it takes more effort for 1, 2. Now for the road test, 1,2,3,4, seem OK, but 5 seems to grind syncro, and you must hold it in gear all the time. Pretty quiet trans.

1. Any chance the shift mechanisms could be the problem ? No fun pulling the trans an transfer, especialy with the extra support tube for air ride, under the trans.

2. Would like to drive this one (gently), while I rebuild the other W350 trans and associated parts. Already have transfer out of other one, and we are getting 12" snow and bitter temps for some time, so won't be laying under there for a while.

Hope some of you Getrag builders can advise, also I don't see the shims in any of the kits on ebay. thanks, Will

 

[Paychk]

The silver in the oil is from wear on the shift fork, sounds like the 3rd/4th fork to be exact. Not sure about 5th though, parts & shim kits can be bought from any number of suppliers, search on my user name & getrag should pull them up.

 

[WJune]

Glad it's aluminum rather than steel in oil. I could see 3-4 shift fork through pto opening and didn't notice excessive wear, but nothing to compare it with ? I copied the 20 page G360 trans overhaul from the pdf file Jay Leonard sent me a while ago. Next to having your own manual, it's the best Getrag photos I have seen. Unfortunatly it says replace complete shift cover assembly ( nothing repairable ). I wonder about that ??

Anyone else have trouble keeping it in 5th gear ? Chime in.

 

[Paychk]

If you were to obtain repair parts from Chrysler, all they would sell is the complete cover. The after market has the forks available separately.

 

[Ridesamule]

I have had some experience with these guys http://www.zbag.com/ pretty knowledgeable and have all of the parts on hand. Their prices seem equal to everyone else but going up all the time, just like everyone else. Their just east of Wabash or north of Rochester on I 90.

 

[WJune]

I have found the forks at the sites you offered in other posts. It's probably wishful thinking, but I keep hoping a defective ball, spring, etc. in shifting mechanism may be part of the problem ? 230K miles, 3 Getrags, various drivers, and broke off shift lever, tell me those parts may of been abused.

 

[Paychk]

On the Getrag the shift forks are mounted on shift rails and these rails & forks are held in each gear position by shift rail detents. Normal operation with no wear is, the fork/synchro fully engages the gear when the spring loaded detent pin drops into the detent grove(detent centered). What happens when there is wear at the shift fork (where the fork straddles the synchro hub) you have to go past(override the detent) to fully engage the gear. When that happens the detent wants to go back to the center position of the grove, which results in the synchro starting to disengage from the gear. Most times the gear fully disengages when the load from the engine is removed ie coasting in gear. To fully diagnose this problem is rather easy and can be done any where, even sitting in the drive way. With the clutch in, fully engage the gear that is jumping out and release the shift lever, does it move toward the neutral position on its own? ie spring loaded to the center of the shift pattern? That indicates wear on the faces of the shift fork, mine had all most 1/8" on just one side of the fork.



One other possibility is wear on the shift lever pivot ball/guide pins, but I'd think that would effect all gears not just one.



PS With aluminum floating around in your oil, it will accumulate in nooks and crannies (input shaft pocket bearing), the only way to get it out is to disassembly and clean all moving parts.



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