Here I am

Just got truck back from dealer for steering wander

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Well,



I just got my truck back from the dealer after taking it in for steering wander. They replaced the steering box, clock spring, and track bar. It steers better now but has a pronounced right pull and is very easy to steer. The steering wheel also has no on center feel and oscillates when turning especially after going over a bump. It doesn't feel right to me and I'm taking it back to the dealer thursday. If any of ya'll have any insight into these problems or suggestions I would appreciate them greatly.



Thanks,

Joe
 
Either that or the camber is off a bit. Did they align it?



There are some improved alignment specs somewhere - Fritz's site?
 
Joe,



Here is that post by the Dodge Alighment guy. Maybe you should print it and give it to your dealer.



http://groups.google.com/groups?oi=djq&selm=an_584018553





"First of all let me say this: Damn all of you nice people for

wanting me to stay with aadt :)

Anyway, I'm not much for having a good short term memory, so bear

with me.

In a previous posting written by ???? (don't remember), they were

complaining about a shimmy in their Ram 4x4 after striking bumps in the

road.

I suggested that the front end alignment has either too little or

too much caster, thus causing a caster shimmy. He did not like my

response and changed his concern from a "shimmy" to a "bounce" (big

difference), and insisted it was the shocks. Maybe it is, I haven't

driven it. He also said the alignment "checked out". Here's the

problem:

Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide

acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range

is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close).

The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer)

tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they

were in this broad range of acceptance.

Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to

caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some

30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics"

training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees

to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates

caster shimmy.

Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First

I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can

see if you had a job well done,

The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual

wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they

are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting

individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between

two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable

in eight different ways.

Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the

lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings

into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME

direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback

condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).

FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a

pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger

value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber

pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even

though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!

If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not

pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the

axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable

values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).

A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative

cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right

hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the

negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling

heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing.

Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.

Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that

does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!



Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs

below are in degrees.





Left Wheel Right Wheel

-------------- ----------------



Caster 3. 2 3. 5

Cross Caster -. 3



Camber -. 10 -. 10

Cross Camber 0. 0



Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will

pull in as the front end lifts up).



Brent

ASE Certified

Gold Certified Chrysler tech"
 
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Follow up

Well, took the truck in and got it aligned and what do you know still the same. The truck still pulls right and occasionally left and wonders all over the road. Service manager has had four techs look at it and none of them can figure out whats wrong. So service manager went for a ride with me (him driving) and decides that the steering box needs to be replaced again tomorrow. Going to take my truck in and try again tomorrow this time I'm bringing a copy of the post from HEMI@Dart about the alignment specs.



Wish me luck,

Joe
 
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do yourself a favor and make them take it somewhere for alignment. They always try to align it themsleves(the dealer ) and always mess it up. DEMAND they have a reputable alignment shop do it. I had similar problem with pull , took it back and they gave it back to me and said it was fixed. I drove it 5 blocks and knew it wasnt . Service manager said mechanic aligned it. Needless to say I took it back and they took it to an alignment shop who did it right the first time. Oo.
 
This may sound nuts but mt 96 does the same thing, pulls to the right. I run two different sets of tires and rims. In the summer I run after market aluminium rims and 265 tires, runs stright down the road. In the winter I put on the stock chrome rims and 245 tires and it pulls hard to the right. Both sets of tires have better than 80% wear left. Simon
 
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