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Just My Luck

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Fuel mileage 2-wheel drive owners

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Was changing the oil in my truck today when I noticed that the oil was kind of slow coming out. So, I stuck my finger in the oil drain and felt something over the hole. I moved it away to let the oil drain and immediatly went to the crank dampner. Took a pry bar and moved the crank back and forth a good 3/8". 226,000 on the truck. So, it looks as though the thrust bearing has fallen out and into the oil pan. Since I only drive the truck about 5 miles a day now, hopefully it will hold off until the first of the year. Im gonna try and pull the oil pan without taking the engine out. Will be going back in with new rod and main bearings as well. Hopefully this is all the damage that it has done. I have no idea how long it has been this way since it never reared its ugly head until now.



So, if you havent checked your crank end play. Do it as soon as you can. Apparently, the earlier 12v versions had a 3 piece thrust washer. The thrust washer apparently locked into the main bearing. I have been told the newer version is a half round solid unit with the #4 main bearing.
 
Boy, I don't think I'd drive it. It seems all is ok as long as you don't know a problem exists, but as soon as you know about it and use it anyway it ends up exploding.

Travis. .
 
I agree, I just hope I dont get in there and find excess clearance on the crank journal. You would think the main bearing would wear out sooner than the journal or throw due to the different metal makeup. I am stopping by Cummins and getting a quote on the price for rod, and main bearings (thrust included), and oil pan gasket. Looking like im going to tear it down next weekend.



Anyone that has pulled the oil pan on a 2wd model please chime in with any hints as to what you had to remove to allow sufficient clearance to get the oil pan out of the way.
 
Hey Monty... . geezzzz sorry to hear about this bud... and as an aside... thanks for posting this in here to help the guys keep track of the potential fubar... good on ya bud...



pb...
 
The VW Rabbitt diesel I had wore thru the thrust bearing. Had about 3/16 inch endplay.

The only reason I checked was because I was hearing a loud intermittent clunk in the lower end.

That clunk turned out to be the crankshaft counterweight hitting the main bearing cap.

Crankshaft was completely shot as the bearing surface was heavily grooved beyond use. The cylinders were severly out of round in the direction of the crank axis.

Hope you don't find this.
 
serious bummer

I just had the engine out and back in on an twd 89 with 727 transmission. If you get the oil pan off without puling the engine, it will be a surprise to me. I had a knock and pulled the head first. The engine came out no problem with the head off but I thought I would have to raise the cab to get the complete engine and transmission back in place. After much wrestling it went back. Might help to take the wiper motor off for clearance. Had I removed the transmission prior to pulling the engine and installing it after getting the engine back in, this may not have been a problem.



If the transmission were out of the way, maybe the pan would come toward the back and let you get to the bottom end. This isn't the first b series that I have heard that the thrust failled.



My skinned knuckles are just now healing. I feel for you.



James
 
Okay, first of all it is up and running great. Just drove 100 miles fresh off of a new set of mains and rods without any problems. I first tried to jack up the engine with a hoist to try and remove the oil pan. You can install a new oil pan gasket by just lifting the engine up and reaching in and unbolting the oil suction tube. However, the pan wouldnt come out due to the bellhousing hitting the firewall. I liked about 1" from clearing the bellhousing even with the crossmember for the transmission out and the trans lowered. I ended up having to remove the transmission and lift the engine up a considerable amount. The crank was level with the top of the grill.



To be honest, I have never seen a better looking set of rods and mains. Very minimal wear if any on mains and rods with 226k. The clutch side thrust washer is the one that came out. No crank or block damage was done. After rolling in new mains, thrust and rod bearings. The crank endplay is right in spec at about . 009
 
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