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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Just ordered Bob V's 2 lo kit.

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Those of you that have one already, any hints or anything I should know before install?



This sucks, I am down with ankle surgery and will be in cast for 5 weeks. Had unexpected surgery week before last :(



I have RV275 injectors, Darrins Steering Box Brace, and Vulcan SS fitings to install and a 2 lo kit on order and cant do anything till the cast comes off.



This sucks!!
 
My factory vac system is working fine, so no need to replace it yet. I was crawling around under there and it seems like I could just cut the vac line that engages the front end and run it to a valve in the cab for those rare occasions when I want 2wd low.

Any reason it's not a simple as that?



Thanks,

Greg
 
I'm installing it on a 2001 3500 Ram.



Yes, it is as easy as just denying vacuum to the engage side of the CAD, as you suggested. I did that on another 4wd Ram, but the vacuum switch alone was $70, making Bob's kit very attractive. Plus with Bobs kit, you can leave the CAD engaged and move the transfer case in and out of 4wd (if I read it right)
 
what is this kit that yall are talking about, i have a solid front axle cab and chassis, is it a high low range gear box? it sounds like a good investment for hotshot trucking... Jeremy
 
I finally got one of his kits last year. It is great. Install was relatively simple. Backing up the trailer without the bind and without the sky high trans temps sure is nice (I have to back my trailer about 200 feet up a hill with several curves into a tight spot and my backing skills arent what they could be). I think the hardest part was really getting a good view of the vacumn lines. The lines are color coded and mine were dirty and I started a bit late in the day so seeing the colors was a tad challenging but some good light would have made it no problem. Just take your time and you will have no problem his directions are quite good. Works as advertised.
 
Most 2002 RAMs do not have the front axle CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) so the kit does not apply to them. SNOKING
 
TurboFan said:
My factory vac system is working fine, so no need to replace it yet. I was crawling around under there and it seems like I could just cut the vac line that engages the front end and run it to a valve in the cab for those rare occasions when I want 2wd low.

Any reason it's not a simple as that?



Thanks,

Greg

Not quite that easy. Like Texas said, you still need a vacuum switch because if you just cut vacuum, the CAD collar may float between engaged/partial engagement/disengaged causing mucho damage. So you need positive vacuum (is that an oxymoron?) to engage, and you need to reverse the positive vacuum on the actuator to disengage.



You also need to be sensitive to the order of engagement. The trans case needs to be locked into 4wd before engaging the CAD so the axle speed comes up to wheel speed.



Bob's kit takes care of all these issues.
 
COWBOYDUALLY said:
If at all possible could someone please explain what this kit is all about to me,thanks... . jeremy



Cowboydually, the kit allows you to go into 2 wheel lo, which aids in slow speed maneuvering of the vehicle when spotting a trailer or such. Trucks with 6 speed and greatly helped by the kit. Easier on the clutch and driver.



I would like to be able to run low range 2 wheel drive on a really step mountain pass and use my exhaust brake.



You have to be a little careful, as you can apply a great deal of torque to the rear diff. The front one is not there to share the load.



Snoking
 
Thanks SNOKING,

where can i get a kit for my truck? will it handle the loads that hotshot truckers pull?

my dad (TSearls on TDR) always said that sometimes reverse was a little tall and that a split gear case would be great. if there is a internet site can you post it for me?... . thanks again... Jeremy
 
Good point NPS. I bet you are right about keeping the vacuum on the other side.





I'm not too crazy about having to pull the front end in each time I go in and out of 4x4 (I do it frequently and sometimes i want it fast), so I'll try to figure something out. I am hoping to have a normal position where it all works as it does now, and a lockout position where the front end can't engage.



Since I don't NEED a lockout, I'm doing it mostly for fun. I guess I'll try to figure out something. Actually I think I just thought of a way.



Put a valve on the "engage" line that redirects vacuum to the "disangage" line. With the redirect valve off all is normal. It goes in and out as factory.

with the redirect valve "on" it redirects the vacuum to the disengage side and keeps the front end locked out. If it turns out it is necessary, I could throw a check valve in the original disengage line upstream of the new valve.



Probably doesn't make sense without pictures. I need to think it through.



Thanks for the help NPS



Greg
 
Well, if I undersatand Bob V's kit you can leave the valve in the 4 wd mode and everything will remain as it is now. Bob has done a good job of researching the issues and his kit is very fair in price. I am going to be orderring one soon, I talked about it back in 2001 but never got around to it. Now with an exhaust brake, I want to have the whole new low set of gears available for a really steep pass with the 5er in tow. Chris
 
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