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Hey all,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe and sane as they can.

I'm starting this thread as a general question one not looking for arguments or anything just feel like sometimes we just want an answer to maybe a dumb question.

Here's mine. Could you swap in front hubs from a 2wd 4500-5500 on a 2500? Yes I know the 45-55 are 10 lug but so CE they are rated for heavier weights and such could this be done and same with the rear? Could I swap in 45-5500 hubs when time comes and step up to a true 10 lug pattern without having to change the brake setup?

I would assume that at least the rotor has to be changed. Again just a thought I had laying here in bed for the night.
 
I don’t foresee anything “swapping” from the 4500/5500 series components into an AAM axle.....two separate and different companies.

What exactly are you trying to accomplish with this swap?
 
Oh nothing I was just wondering if it were possible. Didn't know they were different axles. I have the ifs 2wd 2500 so there's no axles for me to mess with on a hub.
 
Also thought it might be cool to run true 10 lugs. I refuse to run adapter or spacers of any kind.

For weeks at work I walked past a Ford F200 that was 7 Lug and this odd side door on the bed just behind the cab, I would count again and then look at the tag and says F200, and sure enough 7 lugs.... sure does get your attention if you have a 10 lug 2500 I would notice.

Guess the take away is keep your head up, and will have less questions.

I like the idea of the 10 lug 2500 if you pull it off post some pics.
 
I would imagine the rear axles on the 2500 vs the 45-5500's are the same minus a few parts and gearing but I really cannot imagine that the braking is much different than obviously the rotors. Maybe the hubs are in fact slightly bigger? I'd love to find someone that has one that can get measurements for me.

Then i could call around and see if any part stores have any in stock and see whats what. Might be worth playing around with lol.

I will say that I recently found out that you can convert any truck 2010 and up to the new 2020 face style with some fair amount changes so I definitely think it would be cool to do the facelift to my 2012 and then when people see it is a stick that could be fun lol.
 
I would imagine the rear axles on the 2500 vs the 45-5500's are the same minus a few parts and gearing but I really cannot imagine that the braking is much different than obviously the rotors. Maybe the hubs are in fact slightly bigger? I'd love to find someone that has one that can get measurements for me.

The axles between a Medium Duty(MD) 4500/5500 and a 2500 are completely different. The front axle on a 4x4 MD is a 10.5" Sterling and the Rear Axle is a Dana 110S. Everything on the MD is much bigger. I doubt the hubs would mount into the same hole on the front axle since everything is bigger on the MD. You would need to try and find a 10 lug hub for the AAM 11.5 or put the Dana 110 to convert the rear to 10lug.

The cool factor wouldn't be worth the cost or effort IMO.
 
and this is why I'm asking, again just a thread that lets me bounce my ideas and thoughts off people other than my wife, who would prefer i didn't work on my own vehicles period lol and my dad.
 
and this is why I'm asking, again just a thread that lets me bounce my ideas and thoughts off people other than my wife, who would prefer i didn't work on my own vehicles period lol and my dad.

I think it was a fine thread to post. Much easier to ask and find out before you tear it all apart.
 
Thanks y'all!! Decided the new project is going to be replacing the hail damaged parts on the wife's journey. Insurance didn't pay much and the body shops want too much for the work. Pretty sure we can get most everything at the local junk yards as long as we look hard enough.
 
New Question for the thread.

Anyone know what would happen if you were to run a flexpipe exhaust from the down pipe back? Would it be any worse than a standard setup? I know you can get clamp style hangers and such. Just wondering because I want to get away from my 5" setup w/muffler and get over to a true full 4" w/muffler. I know that I would obviously have to figure way to get piping over the axle but I am talking the 10-15ft from the down pipe to the axle.
 
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Not to be “that guy,” but you are bypassing the very best thing about forums, indexing the information so it can be searched. A random title and random thread does nothing for future searches. The information gets lost never to be seen from again. Searches are what brings people to the site and makes the information valuable, because it can be found.

As a friendly suggestion, I would ask for the benefit of yourself, the members, and the vast majority of people who read and research that you title a thread appropriately and start a new one of one doesn’t exist. This way everyone benefits from the knowledge you seek and gets shared. ;)
 
Not a problem, I was just trying to stop the explosion of random threads being started keeping people from the real searches they are looking for and after posting my question I decided it was probably a dumb idea to try and go an almost full flex pipe exhaust setup otherwise someone would have come up with one already lol..
 
Seems to me that a full flex pipe exhaust would be more expensive for parts and require more hangers than a standard exhaust. Would save on the work to bend the pipes though.
 
I was thinking both sides of it. I have a 24" section of 4" laying around that I got from a shop when they moved and told me to take what I wanted lol. I took a lot of exhaust pieces and sold them hear and there to people looking for just certain parts.
 
Speaking on class 8 truck terms, there are places for flex pipe, but not the whole system, and usually not right at the turbo.

Exactly, it has it's place in straight short pieces (12" to 24") where there is constant motion which would threaten a solid pipe connection but fails quickly when you try to go any distance with it...supported or not...

You would not be happy with the results running it the entire length of a pick up.
 
If the pipe's internal wall is not smooth bore and instead a spiral wrapped with ridges inside.... It may actually increase back pressure which is counter-active of having a free flowing system.
 
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