Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Just the Facts, Please

[CESpitz]

<p style="font-size: 10pt;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><strong><em>Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue CJ Oil<br/>Analysis Results</em></strong></span></p>
<p align="left">Just an hour or so after we posted the article, C<span>I-4 Plus Lube Oil Availability Problem?,&nbsp;we received the results for the CJ version of the Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue CJ Oil.</span><br/><br/>The oil analysis for the CJ version of the Premium Blue product is posted as entry 22 on&nbsp;our Oil Analysis Chart. &nbsp;(<a href="https://www.turbodieselregister.com/OilAnalysisChart.pdf" target="_blank">Click here to download updated .pdf version of Oil Analysis Chart)</a>.&nbsp; Since the CI-4 plus Premium Blue was our entry 1 oil, it is easy to compare the two products.<br/><br/>If you compare it to the other CJ oils in our test, it is similar to the other CJ oils with its lack of TBN, calcium, phosphorus and zinc.<br/><br/>We&nbsp;don't think I need to call John Martin. Put this oil into the CJ bin known as "Ho-Hum/least favorite."</p>

 

[CRodi]

I just bought a long length of heater hose and ran it along the frame away from the engine. I can't remember the length 5/8 or 3/4". You can always change the fitting on the engine to suit the hose. I think it's important to have the opening below the level of the engine vent. Some members have also used catch bottles and socks. I think it's important to keep the opening clear. If it plugs up, in severe cases your engine will be puking oil and start blowing seals.

 

[SnoKing]

I just go rid of the bottle and extended the hose down. You do not want extend the hose a long distance if you life in a cold area, as the condensation will freeze and blow seals. Worst part of OEM setup is build up of oil and dust on the radiator and plugging up air flow. Chris

 

[JLandry]

The absolute best solution... if you can find one and stomach the cost... is Fleetguard's Crankcase Ventilation Kit part number CV50115. This contraption replaces the original vent. It collects and drains oil vapors back to the oil pan so there's no more oily film anywhere on the engine or dripping on the ground. I'm pretty sure they've been discontinued by Fleetguard, but a few are still available if you do a web search.

Installation instructions for this kit can be found HERE.

Remember, a clean engine is a happy engine.

John L.

 

[SnoKing]

http://www.justparts.com/Auto_Parts/FLEETGUARD-MAINTENANCE-KIT-CV50115/22018899

Cheapest I could find quickly. Chris

 

[JLandry]

Cheapest I could find quickly.

You know you want one Chris!

John L.

 

[SnoKing]

Hey, my truck is constantly undercoated! Why would I give that up. I still want to run to Kingman and get the RAM! Chris

 

[MLee]

What about the moisture, where does it go? Do a search to see what others have done.

 

[SnoKing]

The two Cummins in my boat have Walker Airsep's installed on them. It is a closed system that separates the oil and returns it to the pan. They work really well, with nice clean and dry engines, and engine room at 2400 hours in 17 years.

I believe this Cummins system work in a similar fashion. Racor has a system also. Chris

 

[JR]

What about the moisture, where does it go? Do a search to see what others have done.

That would be a concern of mine as well. I noticed in the directions JLandry posted towards the bottom it states that condensed oil returned to the crank case may effect oil change intervals and oil anaylisis should be used to monitor oil conditions. The entire kit states that it is for natural gas engines, but I can't see how ours would be any different.
I've always wanted to get my hands on a tappet cover off a junk 12 valve, they have breathers at the rear of the tappet cover instead of at the front of the engine like the 24 valves do. Then you could just run it down the back of the fire wall and under the truck. Running an extended hose scares me, it would have to be very straight and enough of a grade that nothing could ever plug it up and freeze.

 

[JLandry]

What about the moisture, where does it go?

The Fleetguard system still has a tube open to the atmosphere to vent pressure and moisture. It simply does a MUCH better job at separating oil vapors and returning them to the oil pan. There are no oil drips from the vent tube.

Ridiculously expensive, but works outstandingly well.

John L.

 

[JLandry]

towards the bottom it states that condensed oil returned to the crank case may effect oil change intervals and oil anaylisis should be used to monitor oil conditions.

I've been using one for a couple of years now and it didn't seem to affect my engine's oil analysis reports one iota. Nothing changed... except no more greasy film all over the radiator and engine, and no more drips on the driveway.

John L.

 

[JR]

Thanks JLandry thats good to know. Maybe the CNG engines are a little different because the oils stay so much cleaner and the service intervals are inherently longer? I do like the idea of a clean engine. Are you using the Fleetguard?

 

[JLandry]

Are you using the Fleetguard?

Yes I'm using one of Fleetguard's Crankcase Ventilation Kit's on my truck.

John L.

 

[Bill Stockard]

What about the moisture, where does it go? Do a search to see what others have done.

The 3rd gen trucks are equipped with about basically the same Fleetguard vapor/oil separator system located on top of the engine and there are apparently no complaints about oil contamination. My 3rd gen ruck doesn't drip oil like my two 2nd gen trucks did. However, I extended the vapor hose about 4-inches to clear the bottom of the engine which prevents any oil vapor smell that occurs right after an oil change from entering the cab HVAC when stopped at traffic lights.

Bill

 

[piperpilot3tk]

That Fleetguard kit looks awesome...except for the price. I just bought a breather tank that has 3/4" hose barbs and plan on routing the hoses similar to the TSB 09-002-02 breather hose routing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-5L-BLACK-..._Accessories&hash=item3a86a9e75c#ht_783wt_979

 

[JLandry]

I just bought a breather tank that has 3/4" hose barbs and plan on routing the hoses similar to the TSB 09-002-02 breather hose routing.

I hope you have better luck than I did.

I originally installed one of THESE (similar) breather tanks down low near the frame and oily vapors still blew out from the mesh vent on the tank coating the underside of my truck. What's worse, I still had drips, but now coming from all the oil running down the sides of this new breather tank!

That's when I gave up and spent the money on the Fleetguard kit.

John L.

 

[CRodi]

J.Landry:

Do you know off hand if that kit#CV 50115 will fit the 12 valves as well? It seems to cover a wide range of applications. Is there any maintenance, other than keeping the vent free. Did you mount your vent assembly on the firewall? The kits look neat and I might just have to get one of those suckers.

Thanks

 

[piperpilot3tk]

John, I thought that the breather filter would probably still make a mess so I was planning on removing the filter and plugging the hole, then use the other 3/4" barb to run a hose down to the transmission pan area. I will route the hose coming from the breather fitting up and over the intake mainifold and try to mount the breather tank up next to the brake booster so that hopefully some of the condensed oil vapor will return to the engine.

 

[JLandry]

Do you know off hand if that kit#CV 50115 will fit the 12 valves as well?

Sorry I don't.

Is there any maintenance, other than keeping the vent free.

No... no maintenance is required.

Did you mount your vent assembly on the firewall?

No. The entire assembly mounts in place of the original right on the front of the engine on the timing chain cover. There's a narrow metal tube that connects the new vapor separator down to the oil pan so any condensed oil can drain back to the oil pan.

Best regards,

John L.