Just took delivery of my new 48RE

[WRLIVE]

Hey guys,

I'm gearing up to swap my 48RE, TC, and flex plate and would like to know what tips and tricks you know of for the process, ie best way to turn the engine/transmission when installing the TC bolts. I have the shop manual and have printed a couple threads for the procedure. Also are there any gaskets/seals misc parts I should replace while I'm in there? Thanks for your help,

 

[BDaugherty]

There really isn't much to it. Make sure you have a good strong trans jack. If your rear seal is leaking, now's the time to replace it. A barring tool such as the one sold by Geno's makes turning the engine much easier, but it can be done with a prybar against the ring gear or a socket on the crank. Make sure you use thread lock on the flex plate and t/c bolts and let it set before the test run. Of course make sure your coolers aren't contaminated and that you refill to the correct level.

 

[Bob4x4]

change the transfer case input seal while you are there.

 

[p-Bar]

The cummins seal for the rear main comes with the install piece for beating it in nice set up. To pull the old one drill some small holes and screw some sheet metal screws in and use a slide hammer to pull it.

 

[sag2]

Turn the engine over with the generator nut.

 

[p-Bar]

punch out the check valve too

 

[WRLIVE]

Thanks for the info. That is exactly the kind of wisdom I'm looking for. Do you recommend red or blue locktite?

 

[WRLIVE]

Okay, hadn't thought of that. How involved is that process? I seem to recall there is some sort of boot on the back of the transfercase that is looking a little rough. Do you know what I'm referring to?

 

[WRLIVE]

Not sure I follow with the generator nut. What are you talking about? Sorry I'm a little green when it comes to diesels.

 

[cerberusiam]

Not sure I follow with the generator nut.

Rather than buying the barring tool you can turn the engine over using the alternator. A socket on the pulley nut will turn the engine over. Requires an extra person to turn and line up the flex plate bolts though. Barring tool is a good investment.

Consider removing the drain back check ball in the cooler line under the battery for better cooler flow. With a new transmission you should flush the front cooler also or you run the risk of voiding the trans warranty. That is a little tricky with the thermostat in it but can be done.

 

[WRLIVE]

Thanks for the explanation on the alternator method. I may just spring for the barring tool, it's not cheap but it's the right way.

Have we ever determined why they put the check ball in the cooler line?

The BD instructions talk about the Gear Shift Adjustment procedure. Has anyone had challenges with this, ie the truck starting in something other than Park or Neutral?

 

[cerberusiam]

The check ball is part of the anti-drain back system along with the o-ring on the tip of the input shaft. Its NVH initiatives so the yokels can hit drive at the same time the engine fires and the truck will move instead having to charge the TC first. That is typically fixed with a shift kit to allow charging the TC in park. If everything is tight in the trans and the o-ring on the input shaft is good the check ball is nothing but a restriction and garbage collector.

The gear shift adjustment is easy, the cable housing has a locking tab on it behind the knee bolster. Its just like setting the TV cable or throttle cable on a lot applications. Small adjustments can be made there if everyhting does not line up perfectly after install.

 

[WRLIVE]

I appreciate the explanations. Everything better be tight in the transmission for what it cost. Yep I'll be looking to remove the ball.

Thanks for the help,

 

[JBallou]

Put all of the flex plate to torque converter bolts in with loctite blue by hand first. Then tighten them to spec.

 

[WRLIVE]

Got it, thanks for the input.