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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) K&M FILTER YES OR NO

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Hi Bob, yes there's been a lot of discussion on this. Might try a search. General consensus is they're the worst at stopping dirt of any filter you can put on your truck. Cummins does not approve of them. K&N is sort of the Fram of air filters. Best bet is to go with a AFE Proguard 7 or a Fleetguard BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) :)



Vaughn
 
Take a white glove or a white cloth of your choice and wipe the inside of the tube running from the filter to the turbo. Then you be the judge.

Most people don't run them because they don't tend to filter as well and they need more attention than the paper filters (depending on the driving conditions of course)

Go for the BHAF and an outerwears, works good, easy
 
The main reason I would like to get rid of my k&n is since its in the stock air box. But I would like to get a BHAF or AFE progard 7 for two reasons.

1. To get rid of the stock air box so there will not be a sealing issue around any filter that I want to put in. Also future mods will probably not allow enough room for the stock air box, and I would like to have a round or cone style filter. Probably the biggest reason I like the cone style is that they provide a nice 360 degree seal where they mount to keep out more dirt.

2. I think from what I hear and especially from what I see in my truck that a BHAF or AFE will filter much better.



Jordan
 
i had alot of problems with my drop in k&N. it didnt filer all the fine particles and what not. once i popped my afe pro gurard 7 intake, i have had no problems. hope that helps.
 
I have had my drop in K&N filter for two years or so now and I have had zero problems. Intake tube and blades are all clean.



Leave yours in and be your own judge. You might be suprised.
 
My dad just bought a 1996 stock 12v. 200k miles. It had the stock box with K&N from the previous owner. Well i pulled it out and it was a little dirty but not horrible. The turbo fins were dirty as hell. I put a AFE filter and stage 1 box on it. Now I am happy with it

Erik
 
I've done my own real time testing not white jacket and rubber glove testing in some lab. I tried a drop in filter in a drilled out airbox current status in some landfill in eastern washington, Conical filter afe proguard 7 still in truck. Drop in filter's are pointless in my opinion the filter area is still the same size air box will always be restricting. Bhaf is a good setup although filter is pricey for being disposable and you need some kind of heatshield filter is located on hot side of engine plus I don't have the room for one with all the other goodies taking up the space
 
Bob Hart said:
I Have A K&m Filter In My 12 Valve And I Have Been Told I Should Take It Out. if So Why ? :)



Bob:



I apologize for making the reference to this and not provide the link/test results but I'm sure if you do a search (here) regarding Air Filters, you will find a post that has a link that leads to a very comprehensive test on the majority of the air filters out there. I hate to say it ... but K&N did the worst out of all of them. I own one myself (in my ATV) and will be changing it soon.



I went with the AFE Stage II System with the Pro-Guard 7 Air Filter and the Magnum Shield. The Magnum Shield is likely a little overkill but I was/am trying to reduce the "flack" I expect from my Dealer the next time I bring it in.



I would add it has worked very well so far :) but I have not had it very long. The Fleetguard BHAF is likely the "safest" bet if you think you may encounter issues with your Dealer.



I will add, if you go the AFE route, the Stage I with either the stock or Pro-Guard 7 Filter is pretty cool but if you add the 419 Torque Tube (which essentially makes it the Stage II) expect a BIG change in the sound/turbo noise! :--) Easiest way to describe the change ... is it sounds "exactly" like a Big Rig so if you like to listen to the turbo whine ... whistling, then add the tube, if you don't think you will care for the noise ... just go with the AFE Stage I System and the Pro-Guard 7 Filter.



I'll also add that when I had some questions regarding their products and the potential for moisture/contaminants making it into my turbo charger ... AFE responded fairly quickly and involved up to three people to address my questions/concerns, including a DC Certified Diesel Tech. from a local Dealership! Oo.



Happy Shopping :-laf
 
Should Be A Stickey

JCarey,

Great Link!!! A must read for anyone looking for the REAL info on air filter filtration.

I bookmarked it for future reference.



crabman :)
 
anyone want to buy a K&N dropin. where can i find the best price on the afe stage 2.





97' 2500 cc lb 4x4 5spd. catback-cat and k&n :{ , 2" level kit for christmas Oo.
 
Alot of mention has been made about these drop in filters being bad as Vaughn has already said. I have ran K&N Filteration products for many years in other applications where dust is at a maximum and almost borders on insane. The dirt tracks around our area are known for being dry slick and very dusty and are kept that way to try and equalize the fields and the competition. In all the years I have been associated with the sprint car and late model we have never lost a motor to dust,nor seen any excessive wear due to dust bypassing the filter.



Anyway,the point I am trying to make here is this,as with any filter system the filter is only as good as the fit. If the factory air box is distorted for any reason(which happens alot as its a poorly molded product)it will allow for dust and dirt to pass thru the side seams and you to see the grime on the pinwheel. Another issue is over-oiling the filter after cleaning it and thats not a good deal either. When I buy a new K&N for any application I always remove it from the packaging and allow it to sit for the excess oil to drain off. I do the same when re-oiling it for intsall,spray it down after it has dried,lay it down and allow it to self drain off the excess. Most of the oils seen with the filters will be due to over-oiling them after cleaning and it can be done with ANY oil-based filter,doesn't matter what brand.



Obviously its your truck and your choice I only hope I shed a different light on the subject to help your decision. One last thing and I will drop out,Cummins & D-C do not allow for any air intake modification(aftermarket filters) and it would/could void your warranty. Do not allow the naysayers to make you believe its only the K&N version thats not allowed,its all of them. Hope this helps... ... ... . Andy



P. S. -I will now don my flame suit.
 
JCarey,



Thanks for posting the test.



I have to wonder about how realistic the dirt flow in these tests is compared to the real world. Is it like driving behind someone on a dirt road in the summer? Worse than that?



There is hardly any dirt in the air where I live because I can see the ocean from here. The last land the air blows over is Siberia. Where some of my kin live in the Sierras the normal dust is terrible. I would think that the choice of air filter would depend on where the truck is normally operated. I could probably get by with no air cleaner here.
 
Here's just ONE sample of what Andy is referring to as to fit of filters inside the factory housings:



#ad




The dust leakage path around the blue colored lower OEM seal area is clearly visible - but for some strange reason, the K&N bashers never seem to notice or comment on leakage of STOCK paper filters - but let a K&N leak, and SHAZAM! ;)



IF I was going to stick with a paper OEM filter, I would AT LEAST use some of the grease sealant commonly sold at places like Kragen and Grand Auto - probably NAPA as well - that stuff fills the gaps between filters and housings and attracts/holds dust that might try to leak past the filter at those points. I always use that stuff with my K&N - no leakage problems so far... ;)



BUT, in my mind, there's no beating a BHAF type filter setup, and I plan to install one soon...
 
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I think I agree with HAMMER. Had a K&N in my 86 Ford and 1 in my 97 CTD. The suction tube and turbo remained clean in the Dodge after 150K. The oil analysis showed no increase in silica after 75K on the oil. Cleaned the filter after 35 - 50K. As with any cleanable filter follow their instructions EXACTLY!! The filter for the 97 came with some grease to put around the edge of the filter to ensure a good seal. It worked.

If I replace my stock filter it will be with somthing larger than stock which eliminates a K&N. Thanks Hammer, for the info about replacing filters with anything but stock.

As far as the air filter tests I think they were run by a GM affiliate. AC was the best filter. Guess who makes AC. Also, if you read the data and put pencil & paper to the numbers they don't add up.

All of this is probably worth what you payed for it.
 
I should clarify that probably not all K&Ns are bad. Many have had good luck with them, but I think compared to other brands of filters there is a high percentage of inferior or defective units. The cone filter I had was very bad (RE-0880). I had it sealed properly and gave it two chances yet it let so much dust past the media I pitched it in the trash after 5K miles. This was in 2000 on my '01 Ram.



No matter what filter I think it bears to mention you need to check the intake hose to make sure it's doing its job. Like Gary and others have been pointed out you gotta be careful with how the element is installed in the stock airbox. . . it's easy for dirt to get past the edges if the element isn't seated just right.



Vaughn
 
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