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K&N again

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South Bend clutch

Anyone Try Walker Airsep?

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I purchased one when I first bought my truck and sent it back for several reasons. One, a lot of people complained about seeing dust/particles/junk downstream of the air filter that was trapped on various intake surfaces by oil residue (poor filtering). Two, K&N doesn't do much bragging about their FILTERING ability, just it's high flow rate. They offer NO filtering ability test results or statistics. Three, when I got mine, I could see through it (I really questioned it's filtering ability). Here's the kicker, I'm thinking about getting one again anyhow just to get the higher flow rate. If you ask me it's simply a trade off... a higher flow rate for questionable filtering characteristics (I'm sure K&N doesn't agree). My . 02

By the way... I'll sell anyone the world's highest flow air filter. Guaranteed! Here's the best part... it's invisible. #ad


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98. 5 2500, 24v, QC, 4x4, 4. 10 LSD, short bed, Line-X liner, tow package, camper suspension, Westin nerfs, camper shell, TST PowerMax3, 275 RVs, EGT/Boost pillar gauges... Love my Cummins, no love for Dodge
 
I just installed my 1st K & N Filter in my Y2K diesel. ($69. 00 at Kragen) I have previously had no problems with the K & N filter including a Generation II in my gasser '96 RAM. (Increased 8HP)
Now, you've made me worried I did something stupid to my oil burner. I immediatley noticed the increased 'turbo' whine with the K & N, but, I think it sounds kinda neat! #ad


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Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4, 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie,"EZ", LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
If you wanna hear turbo whine, take out the silencer ring in the turbo, five minutes to a loud whistle. Oh, I have the K&N, about 20,000 on it, no signs of dirt, the intake and hoses are meticulous. Makes me wonder, but I'm not changing it.

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1998 2500, 12 valves, SLT, auto, 3. 54, 285/75-16, TST 230/605, t/c switch, DiPricol EGT/boost guages,K&N,camper special, 65,000 miles(2/01),
12 ton goosneck!
'01 Polaris EDGE-X 600
 
Hi Bill, I was wondering if you or anyone you Know has ever tried mounting a 2 stage air filter like the kind we have in our tractors? Would they flow sufficient air for our trucks. The system I have on a 100hp Versatile tractor,which uses a 4cyl Cummins, does an incredible job of filtering the intake air. I've seen that outer filter so dirty after a days work that you wouldn't think it could possibly breath and yet the restriction indicator light doesn't come on and the inner filter is just as clean as the day it was installed.
Greig

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2001 3500 4x4 Q. C 6spd H. O, Patriot Blue, 3. 54 L. S. D, U. S Gear exhaust brake, Isspro EGT and boost on A-pillar,EZ
Greig
 
I've watched the various threads on the K&N filters. All I know is I've had mine in for a good 3 years and over 100,000 miles. I've cleaned it either 2 or 3 times (even though the filter minder hadn't moved). I've sealed the edges with dielectic grease. My turbo wheel and reinstalled silencer ring are oil free. The silencer ring is so oilfree it has spots of rust starting. My $. 02 worth, there isn't a problem with the K&N, maybe the install, maybe the amount and frequency of oiling, maybe a distorted air box. Gene

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'96' 3500, 5-speed, 3. 54 LSD, Ext. Cab, 180,000 plus miles, relay controlled back-up alarm and rear facing halogen tractor flood lights, K&N air filter, TST #11 plate . 010" forward of stock, AFC spring kit, lost cat, SPA digital EGT and boost gauge,20 yr. old marine air horns, bed liner, 5" monster exhaust tip, Geno's manual trans. filter, brite box.
 
Greig,I've put out the tractor filter idea a few times here,I believe it would be excellent,especially with the safety inner filter. There were a couple of folks here that were going check further into Donaldson filters,kind that I and most likely you are running(at least the canister). Wait and see.

How about the weather!!! 65°F in Chelan today,most all the snow has melted in the last two days,had to take off the winter front,if it keeps up fan's going back on soon!!You must have warmed up also.
 
I just did a service on mine a few weeks ago and it was probably way over due. Wiped the clean side of the air box with a white rag and it was CLEAN. Cleaned and oiled per instructions and reinstalled using K&N sealing grease. That was three weeks ago. Checked the clean side today to make sure I did not over oil and once again it was CLEAN. I'm keeping mine. 85K and counting. #ad


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96 2500 4x4 Driftwood auto Warn 4x boards pyro,boost,trans temp on a piller, mag hytec trans pan, Reese 15k 5th wheel hitch Pulling 200 Alfa Ideal 31RL
 
Tracy,in an environment such as the one you live in around Puget Sound,unless you're off roading in fine dry dust,you can probably go 100k on a filter service. In my dry Eastern WA dust I go 50k without even opening the filter box. I'm on 125k with my 2550 and have only serviced the filter twice,but could have gotten by with only once. The less the better,the K&N filters better as it gets dirty I hear. -Bill

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
Bill, we haven't had any snow here for a couple weeks now. Do you think the tractor air filter will let enough air through to feed 300hp. The biggest tractor I've got is an old A. C {160hp} The filter canister on it would be to big to fit where the stock air box sits. To get enough air out of this type of setup would the filter be to big? I guess the question I'm asking is,are the tractor filters to restrictive
 
Greig,the factory airbox filter is about 12"x12"=144 sq inches, my tractor filters are about 6"in diameter X 18"long that equals a surface filtering area of 508 square inches,3 ½ times more. A tractor filter this size would easily fit under the hood with the air box removed,there is probably room for an even larger one,but I don't think it would be necessary. I'm sure a filter this size would flow enough. I've had tractor filters filled with dust ¼"beyond the pleats without the service filter light coming on,though the Mt St Helens ash would set off the warning light in a matter of hours.
I don't think the factory air box filter would last 20 minutes when that stuff was fresh. Also the way the tractor filters vanes spin the air so the dust goes to the unloader valve helps the filters stay clean even longer. Unless you are following someone down a really dusty road much of the time I don't think a tractor filter would have any problem supplying our Cummins at all.
 
I am running a tractor filter on my truck right now. However, I'm not using the canister or secondary filter. I did install a filter minder on my setup, and it hasn't moved any yet (not many miles but a moderate amount of boost). The best thing about the whole setup is the sealing surface. There is not doubt the filter is sealed when you crank down the wingnut.

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Brian
97 2500 SLT 4x4, 5sp. , 4. 10 LSD 285/75, Isspro boost and pyro, TST #10, McLeod clutch, gov springs, 370's on desk, AFC kit, HX40-16cm2 Majestic, Holcomb Air, BLH 4" exhaust, BD Brake
 
Gene Schlegel:

I agree with you 100%! Good post on
a very controversial subject!!

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John_P

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Major Pump Mods(By "Scheid Diesel") 370 Diamond B Injectors, Gov. Spring kit, AFC Spring kit, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit,Psychotty Air Filter, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, BD Pressure Loc, Isspro Gauges, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs
 
Soon as I get some moderate temperatures, I am going to try the filters off both of my tractors. It's been just a bit to cold to take the pressure washer to them first. By the way this filter issue is hardly unique to our application. I have seen problems with various dump truck applications working in dusty conditions.
 
I asked my Massey-Ferguson dealer about prices for a entire filter for my 85 HP 4 cyl Perkins,they wanted $260 US for the can,both filters and the electric minder sender.
I think if you can get this though an auto parts the price may be half. I run Wix main filters $27,
the M-F Donaldson filter is $62.
 
Bill, you farmers got the same idea I've been thinking about... lots of dry square inches of filter=flow. When you get it hashed out, (the right one) I would like to hear it? At work they got these BIG cylindrical elements for compressor intakes... humm, must know the micron rating first then off to the in house sheet metal shop, them guys owe me. These elements are for 1500 cfm compressors, I think theres four on the units.

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9535hundred

[This message has been edited by Statland (edited 03-08-2001). ]
 
Thanks Bill, the obvious question seems to be, how come nobody is using this kind of set-up? I just called my equipment dealer and priced out a unit that I have on one of my tractors that I think would work quite well. He wants $350 Canadian,this includes both filters and the housing. Pretty steep but maybe a guy could find one in a salvage yard somewhere. By the way,I think $350 Can. works out to about $9 bucks U. S. LOL
Greig
 
Brian, how did you attach the filter to the intake hose? Do you have the filter sitting on the fender where the stock airbox was? More details please. Pictures?
Greig
 
Greig, I cut out a circular piece of plate, and then welded it to a 2"-3" section of 4" sch. 40 pipe. I then welded in a thin bar across the 4" pipe to attach the clamping rod for the filter. The filter sits in about the same position as the K&N RE-0880, but I had to build a mount to hold up the loose end. I don't have any pictures at this time, but I do have some dimensioned drawings for those with cadd access.

I too would like to have a filter canister with the cyclone fins, dust purge, and everything, but where would you point the inlet? Every canister I have seen has the outlet coming out of the end, and the inlet at the opposite end at a 90 deg. angle. Then it will either have to point towards the hole in the fender or towards the engine. Neither position gives an temperature advantage over an open element, but for people in the dust and dirt all the time it will be the hot setup.

Brian
 
Brian,my idea on the inlet for a tractor filter was to use a rubber 90° elbow or flexible ducting and draw air though the firewall in the same location that the Phscotty air unit does. You might be able to draw air from the fender airbox hole with flex ducting depending on the location of the canister inlet. Heavier weight clothes drier tubing should work well. Once the factory airbox is gone there is actually quite a bit of room to play around. It's best to draw cool air from outside the engine compartment when possible.
 
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